turbo_brian

for stock turbochargers it's about 8 hours of work to do a turbo swap, so expect similar with a bolt-on kit, being that it will require mounting mods, etc, so 8 hours by $90 for hourly rate and most mechanics shops will be close to $900 when they include anything you miss, or run into problems... Might find cheap, and it might work out, but then again, they might mis-quote and try to charge more. Advice, get your quote in writting, so they can not renig on the value and charge more. B.

I have those stickers in my tool-box. Adds $1500 to most imported with ordometers 90,000 to 110,000kms. CHECK the timing belt and tensioner pulleys if you have not organised the timing belt yourself. B.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Content/Si...00000006981.jpg Use the right tools and to it properly. You can get a hammer-tool and socket, place socket onto bolt, hammer-tool into socket (dont know it's actualy name or I would have put up a picture, but it's got an arm about 10cm long, then another arm from this about 80cm long, you hammer the longer arm and it shock-loads the bolt right at the thread). Or you use a tool like in the picture above, where it holds the harmonic balancer from turning, and the 2nd arm is used against the harmonic balancer's locked pressure to turn the nut (uses SFA energy to crack the thread). Reason you dont place the car in gear, or use a fly-wheel lock is because your then placing all your force down the length of the crank shaft, and if your hitting the bolt, using a rattle gun, etc your placing shock-loads onto the crank and potentially damaging the crank. Reason you dont use the starter is for the same reason. Dont get me wrong, these methods work, but they place un-due force on the internals of the motor, and 'could' cause potential failure points in the future. EDIT: Almost forgot, USE FLAT FACED SOCKETS!!!! Dont use the milling grip sockets, you will almost certainly round the nut, and then be stuffed!!!

my Turn: (was only a matter of time) Engine/Car: 1991 R32 GTR Skyline, RB26DETT Type of Failure: 98,000kms on the clock, believed the previous owner when he said timing belt was done, but was not aware the tensioner pulleys where still the factory item. Failure on the inlet side tensioner, result was loosening of the timing belt, and jumping of teeth. Guys, these engines re intrusion engines, the valves DO interferre with the pistons. Result was strange. Every single EXHAUST valve was mashed and bent. Factors influencing failure: Was driving perfect the day before, plenty of power, turned it off, started the next morning and drove it soft and gentle until warn, went to juice it, and still had no power (dropped it at the mechanics under it's own steam). Unless you know the timing belt and tensioners are good, spend the $500 and get them fitted yourself, dont leave anything to change. State of tune: CAM gears, pods, massive HKS Exhaust, 13PSI boost, chipped ECU (Approx. 210kw at all 4 wheels). Iol used at Service intervals: Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil every 4 - 6,000kms, always sightly darkened when changed, but never completely blackened, and never full of grit. General comments: We changed the head for a Just Jap 2nd hand head, cams, valves, etc and found a snapped CAM shaft in the new head, my engine builder thinks the camshaft in the new head was snapped from impact damage, I am having this investigated, but we where lucky not to loose another set of valves when checking.Car is currently 'sort' of working, it's back together but blows plumes of white smoke the second you touch the throttle, we are looking at turbochargers, but they dont have much play in them, and they where not smokey prior to the top-end rebuild, so I am at a loss at this stage. B.

Comes of the BOV (the round thing at the top in the middle of the 2nd picture. Best to circulate this back into your intake (before turbo), as this is where it goes currently. B.

If you have an RB engine with multiple coil packs, and it's mis-firing on idle, it's pretty easy and quick to Id the cylinder at fault (if it's a constant cylinder problem, and not switching). Remove the coil cover, start up the engine, and as it's idling and mis-firing, remove 1 coil loom plug and wait 10 seconds. If the engine gets worse, or stalls, then replace the loom, start the engine and move on to the next loomplug. Repeat the above until you find that plugging in or removing the coil plug makes absolutely no difference to the running of the engine, and you have found the cylinder that is not firing, or firing only on occasions. Logic behind it: you have a 6 cylinder engine which is only running on 5 cylinders (for logic sake, cylinder 2 is the problem). You start the engine, you can hear it mis-firing, you remove the coil pack for cylinder 1, it gets worse (because now it's trying to be a CA and run on 4 cylinders). You plug cylinder 1 in, start the engine, remove the plug for cylinder 2, but it makes no difference. This is because cylinder 2 is not working anyway, so plugged in, or unplugged, it's not firing. Continuing to 3, 4, 5, or 6 wont matter, you have found the problem, and continuing will result in the same as Cylinder 1 anyway. B.

Timing belt was checked when the car was first dropped off, thoughts at that stage was belt jumping a tooth, and tension arm failing, so the cover was removed, belt tension checked and found strong, belt in decent condition, so everything was put back together, compression test performed (156, 154, 155, 154, 153, 155), and then on inspection, the rear turbo was seen to be missing 2 bolts, and the rest where almost at the end of the threads, this is where focus changed on the investigations. At this point, turbocharger was re-mounted, 2 new bolts fitted, and the car was taken for a test drive. It was started, warmed up a little but allowing it to idle for a few minutes, and then driven around the block. It surged and dropped power, then gained power, then cut out completely (800 meters down the road from leaving the workshop). It was pushed back. When cranking it over, it sounded higher pitched in cranking than normal, almost like it wasn't struggling to turn over (struggling against compression), so it was pushed back into the workshop, coil packs and spark plugs removed, and compression test re-done to reveal 0 PSI in all 6 cylinders. B.

Unfortunately they are HKS Cam gears, I did not install them, and didn't actually know the car had adjustable cam gears when I bought it. I guess it's leak-down test time, and if this reveals mashed valves, it's a rebuild. Bloody bad timing with a wedding in less than 6 weeks, but what can you do. Thanks guys, when I find out more, I will post it up. B.

This is my thoughts, When starting to take the belt cover and CAS off, we found adjustable CAM gears hidden away inside, thoughts are that one of the cam gears might have loosened, causing the inlet or exhaust to go way out of timing, and thus mash the valves, leaving them not closing, thus 0 psi compression, which means no voilent combustion. He's going to get his optical camera into the cylinders tomorrow and check the piston heads for signs of contact (camera doesn't bend back enough to see the valves themselves), and we can go from there. Chances here are that head will be coming off, which means I might as well start looking at porting the heads, have a think about upgrading CAMs (especially with adjustble cam gears in there), and potentially high-flow the turbos while everything else is apart, but looking compression in all 6 pistons to me just isn't right, sounds like a timing issue. Just glad it was polite enough to drive straight to the mechanics before bombing out, and it was nice it bombed on him, and not me. B.

Ok, have an RB26DETT R32 Skyline, was working wonderfully until 2 weeks ago. Went out with a few friends on the Sunday, off to the RSL for some drinks, some pool, and just to enjoy time with mates. Went home, car was brilliant the entire time, no issues, good power delivery, a pleasure to drive. Woke up the next morning, did the usual thing, got to car, unlocked it, fired it up, opened the boot, put my crap in the boot, came back, checked all the warning lights where off, there was no un-natural or abnormal sounds, spent another 20 - 60 seconds putting on seatbelt, changing radio station, and setting everything up to drive to work (the general morning ritual to allow the engine some time to get the oil around and warm up. This morning, all was good, drop out of the drive nice, and I did the usual crawl until the termpature gauge started to rise. Once the temp starts to rise, I went to put some more power down, but it didn't feel right, it struggled to pick up. Checked the boost guage and it was pushing into positive boost, but struggling, felt sluggish, nd the exhaust note wasn't correct. At this point, I dropped the mrs off at the train station, and took the car to my local mechy. Did a compression test, 155psi +- 4psi on all 6 cylinders, so compression was sweet, and on went the diagnostics. Today, he calls me saying the turbo was loose on the back, he has tightened the turbo, and is going for a test drive. After popping in to see him (he's a good friend), turns out the car shut down on him during the test drive and he hasn't had a look at it, so we both push it into the workshop, remove the coil packs, remove the plugs (covered in fuel) and do a compression test, and it's dead 0 on all 6 pistons. I am at a loss, I can understand something going wrong and loosing a complete piston, but to loose all 6 is just not right. We removed the cam covers to make sure both cams where turning when the engine was being turned over, and they are, so it's not a broken timing belt that has left the valves open. Did ECU diagnostics, it revealed no error codes at all. I am at a loss for idea, anyone else had issues like this or could help me out??? Thanks, Brian.

They are not actually bots, but people that sign up, post (if needed to activate PMs) and then use a script to PM everyone on the site, person by person. They have hit MANY sites, a simple google of the username will show this. The Link SHOULD NOT be clicked, the PM should be deleted immediately, and a moderator/admin notified of the user so that the account can be disabled, and the account's sign-up IP address should be blocked from accessing this site. OzMazda.com took the step of blocking the IP address range the user signed in from, and has been clean ever since, but prior they had 3 different attacks in the space of a week. B.

Send Haltec an email, I know they where working on a gearbox control when everything went a little pear-shaped. Have you also thought about old-style H-pattern gear selection and custom parts, might be something else also to think about. As for everyone wanting pics, how bout help the guy, then ask for pics B.

Dawinism almost takes another one......

get someone to tap the starter with a hammer as you turn the key (read here: TAP the starter motor, not slam the FK out of it), if it suddenly starts turning over and starts, you have a dicky solenoid in your starter motor, time to go and get a new one. I had similar in my previous car, ended up having to rig an under the bonnet trigger wire for the starter so I could start the car when I was on my own (until I could source a starter motor and have it rebuilt). B.

should be written on the top of the headlight... B.