turbo_brian

What parts are still available, I am after the Radiator support bracket at the front, offering good money as well. Call me, 0410 548 221. Thanks. B.

I know you want to sell as 1 item, but if the shell doesn't sell fast enough, I am happy to take the rear door and also the rear quarterpanel as well. B.

And the problem was??? (for the sake of helping others) B.

And how god's heart was made Awesome!!!

GTR World Record Run. The car IS running an RB26DETT, but certainly not stock.... Well done to Mark and his team though, it's certainly not a slug. B.

Awesome work, but the only thing I would change would be to fuse the constant battery as well as the actual points. Reason being, not to dis-trust your work, but if something happens between the distribution block and the battery, you still want to have the circuit fused before the box, always think of electronic safety. But it has to be said, AWESOME DIY, well done. B.

Gapping (from my own experiences and not agreeing or dis-agreeing with anyone else) is for weaker or less able coil packs in cars. When I have my POS 180sx, it was fine on 1.1mm plugs for a good 12 months, but then started mis-firing and causing problems. After new plugs, and gapping to 0.9mm it was fine for a further 6 months before it went rough again, so took the plugs out and re-gapped to 0.8mm and it was again fine. Got 4 new coil packs, gapped the plugs back to 1.1mm and it was running perfectly fine again until I sold it. If your ignition system can sustain the larger gap, I would be using it, as a larger gap usually = a hotter spark, which means better ignition of the air/fuel mixture. Then you have other things to consider, such as ECU, tune, fuel type, etc but in it's most simplest form, the larger the gap, the hotter the spark, and the cleanest burn you can get. B.

Buy yourself a spark plug lead, plug 1 end of lead to coil pack, other end to your spark plug, then ground the thread of the spark plug on the block, or the massive hook usually on a motor, then have a friend turn the engine over, you should see a nice blue or white spark from the plug. For the injectors, there is a plug you can buy, which you plug onto the injector lead and again have a friend turn the engine over, and the plug has an LED in it, which will light up if there is any voltage through the lead (if the injector lead is presenting a pulse). For the injector plug, you need to immobilise the motor from firing and possibly starting, reason is, with an injector unplugged, if the engine does fire, you will farily quickly roast your cylinder from the spark plug firing. B.

For a Yellow-top drycell you dont need to worry if you flatten it completely, they are designed to discharge completely without killing the battery. Charge it up for 18 - 20 hours on a trickle-charger, and she will be fine. If the car's going flat after such a short time, there is something taking more than normal charge. As for the ticking, it's the solenoid int he starter trying to engage the throw-cog onto the flywheel before attempting to turn the engine over, it's simple a flat battery or not enough amps from the jumper leads, common with cheap $20 leads from el-cheapo stores. Get a GOOD set of leads, or a proper Jump Start pack and use that for jumping cars. I got a cheapo $40 jump start pack in the thought it would fire up my Soarer back a few months ago, but when I tried it recently, it merely ticked like a flat battery, completely useless for anything except a torch on the side of it. B.

Hey mate, I'll take the stock airbox if it's still for sale, PM sent B.

Me to, to fit aGTR bar to my GTR, mine's a little bent. B.

Already PM'd him. Posted int he thread, so others that might have items can see I am looking to buy, and it might be useful info for them. BTW, for those concerned, a shell at the right price would move my way fairly easily. B.

Pics??? Prices??? B.

I know your feeling, I found the guard rail at 100km/h today, not a pretty result, but the car's still straight, and myself and the better half walked away from it, which is all that counts in the end. Car's a mess, but looks to be mainly panel damage at the moment, am seriously annoyed, but at the same time releived that it was only the car and not someone I loved, or another road user. Note to all, if your not overtaking, MOVE THE f**k OVER so the people that are comfortable doing the speed limit can continue on without having to change directions. B.

I will take the headlights, fire me shipping details to 2037 and also bank details and I will transfer funds Thanks mate. B.

Is the bonnet Sold??? If Not, I would love to have it, able to get it picked up at some point as well. I will PM you some of my contact details, Thanks Mate. Brian.

Who was the clown I spotted near pyrmont heading up the hill towards China town. Whoever you where, you where doing alright until you seem to spot me, then you switched to clown mode, spinning wheens and acting like a tool. Anyway, your car looked nice man. B.

This is my opinion only, and based on the fact I do a LOT of work with SES, and therefore around a lot of police as well (and it also doesn't help me in the fact that on another car forum, there are a number of highway patrol guys that come to regular events when off duty). Anyway, I personally rather mine in the stock position in the centre, get Slim-line plates, and the plate wont effect air flow, or if your an engineering type, you can make a bracket to angle the plate at a 10 - 12 degree angle to push wind down into the front of the car, which will actually help your car (be it miniscule, every tiny little bit does help). I have had talks with friends that wear blue uniforms, and they have said that side-mounted numberplates on cars that where not stock like that seem to catch the eye a little, and that means they have noticed the car, and are now looking at you wondering why they noticed it. If you want a sleeper, slim line plates in the stock position, if you have a nice weekender that you want noticed, then side mounted plates, custom body kit, etc will do the trick. Something to remember though, if your building a car to be noticed by the by-standers, you need to remember it will also be noticed by the boys in blue, because deep down somewhere inside them (just a small bit of them anyway) is actually human, and humans do notice nice cars. B.

You will find a properly installed turbo timer will shut down immediately if the handbrake gets removed, or if the brake is applied, these are 2 features that are genuinely associated with the security of a car being timed, so that if someone was to jump into the car and either hit the brakes (usually done when clutch goes in to select gear) or drops the handbrake (again, required to take a car), the timer shuts off. A decent alarm system should activate, and the turbo timer should be connected in some way to a timed by-pass of the immobilising function of the alarm system for timing down, but not effect the alarm system in it's monitoring of battery drain circuit, vibration monitor, etc. And if your bothering to install an alarm, make it decent, a $90 'alarm system' from Dick Smith Electronics just WONT cut it, might meet insurance, but anyone with remotely any level of auto-electrical knowledge will bypass the cuts instantly and easily. B.

For anything I usually cant do myself, I head to Autotech Engineering at Ganville, speak with Spiro.

rb26dett as well??? B.

It's all respective of the state you live in.... For NSW, the law is the rear windows and windscreen can be as dark as 5% tint, with NO tint on the front side windows, and only the top 10% of the front windscreen tinted as well (For business vehicles and taxis) Or All windows no darker than 35% tinting all around, but only the top 10% of the front windscreen tinted (for business vehicles, and taxi's). For passenger cars, the NSW rules are no darker than 35% tint all around, and only the top 10% of the windscreen tinted. This can be different for other states, and thus you need to check your local area. As for the 2 defect issues, There is a spray you can get to break down the tinting glue, call up a local tinter and ask them the best thing to remove tint before you take it to them for re-tinting (if you take it or not is not their business, but if they think your making their life easier, it will help you get the information). As for the restraints, they will be checked off on your compliance stickers. Something everyone needs to remember is that a Police officer's "defect list" is not an actual list of defects on the vehicle, but a list of the things he believes should be checked by someone that knows the ADR requirements, and regulations of the local area. For a cop to ping you for stuff like this, either he didn't get his coffee and doughnut, or you didn't pass his personality test. For an example, yesterday I took a highway patrol officer for a drive in my car, because he had never been inside a Skyline GTR in a 'civil' environment (off duty). He pointed out the lack of H-pattern on the gear lever (can place a sticker within 10cm of the gear lever to comply in NSW), and the twin POD filters under the bonnet, but other than those things, he said unless I really upset the officer, I would be sweet with. He also mentioned a simple cover on the PODs will not surfice, as the legal requirement for NSW is a SEALED enclosuer for the pod filters. Personally, I have heard mixed 'stories' about the child restraints, from rear speakers removed and restraint clips fitted, to restraint clips fitted stock BEHIND the speaker grills, but this is still debatable, and should be covered under the compliance of the imported car. Good lock with everything. B.

The stock GTR batteries are shocking!!!! I had mine go the day after I bought the car, and the replacement battery was socking when trying to power my stereo system. I replaced mine with a deep cycle Optima Yellow top dry-cell battery, and haven't looked back. I even left the parkers on for 4 hours the other day, came back, and she turned over without even looking like it was getting flat. Get yourself a decent battery, and you will be fine. Also look at upgrading the Earth from the battery to chassis. B.

I have 1991 and 1992 of the Bathurst races, but the Bathurst one has severe audio vs video warp, the sync is nasty. 1991 is in perfect condition though, and a dream to watch and remember how the Skylines slaughtered the rest of the field It's also on Youtube as well. B.