turbo_brian

a VERY decent adjustable replacement BOV/Bypass valve is the product offered by Turbo XS, they do a direct bolt-on replacement with adjustable spring tension, etc and it's also rated up to 32PSI before it's "suspected" to leak. I will be swapping to this product shortly from the stock GTR bypass valve, have seen this product used on the Mazda MPS vehicles, and it makes a massive difference over their plastic valve setups, not sure how it will go on the R32 Skyline, but they offer a direct true bolt-on replacement. B.

Pirtek will have heaps, so many you wont know what to do, I needed to get some when I re-did the hoses on my Soarer's power steering system, replaced the 2 linked 17's with 2 single 17mm washers, never looked back. B.

Take the to a brake specialist, get them rebuilt. Brakes are not something to skimp on!! B.

a resistor well sort the issue B.

Diver, find someone else to align the wheels. It's not uncommon for import owners to shuffle between 4 or 5 places until they get the perfect alignment, because imports are not commonly known cars, and some places just assume it will have similar figures to another car. As mentioned before, I had a Soarer aligned in Firestone Deception Bay Brisbane, no print out, but there was marks on the bolts, so they had changed settings under the car, and done something. It originally went in with an issue of scrubbing the insides of the tires, and pulling slightly to the left, this was before and after I swapped wheels and tires, and had just gone and put 95% worn 2nd hand 17" tires on the beast. Anyway, got the car back, it drove straight, but as it was scrubbing insides, this was more my concern. Anyway, drove home to Sydney, did about 15,000kms of other trips (I am a high milage driver) and the insides of the 95% 17" tires where stuffed AGAIN. Took it to my normal guy, 4 new Pirelli Tires, and an alignment, and he printed off the before and afters of the alignment, and there was a HUGE difference in the figures. I am now up for tires on those 17" wheels again, but this time I have done 62,890kms on the wheels, all 4 tires ahve worn the same amount all the way around, AND all 4 tires have worn perfectly even from the outside edge, to the inside edge. These wheels are now on my Skyline GTR as well, and the tires will be changed in a few weeks (there is still 1.3mm of tread left). I will be going back to the same guy for the next tire and wheel alignment, because he actually knows what he's doing. B.

I did my 32 Godzilla last week, there was no solenoid that I could find Anyways, I took the filters and pipes off, pretty much exposing most of the turbochargers, and found the vaccum lines that went from the compressor side of each turbo to 'something'. On the front turbo, it went to a waste gate, on the rear turbo, off to a metal pipe that vanished off somewhere. For me, I got myself enough vaccum pipe to link from the turbo compressor on turbo A to the same on Turbo B, then cut half way and fitted a T-Piece. I did the same with the Waste gate and the metal pipe. Then, from the T-piece, I ran a Vaccum line to the boost controller bleed valve, remembering that the air travels from the compressor to the waste gate in direction. Boosted up an extra 2 - 4psi roughly, and holly sh1t it's quick!! Hope this helps. B.

Had when cold usually means it's Syncro's are on the way out, or the oil is old/wrong type. Time for an oil flush, see what condition the oil comes out in (hopefully not dirty brown like soggy mud), and hopefully without metalic particles, because if there is metal in the oil, the syncro's are gone. B.

There are sites with circuits you can use.... Best to LEAVE THE IGNITION ALONE!!!! Reason, what's the first place you look at if your going to hot-wire a car?? Anyway, Without giving away my own secrets, you need to think about kill circuits (I dont use switches) as Alarm immobilisiation points, but without the alarm. You can also do such things as use relays in your circuit, so that when you press the button, it activates the temp side of the relay to join the circuit and enable something like the fuel pump or coilpack ignitions, but as soon as you turn the car off, the relay shuts off and autp-enables the kill circuit again. Best to search for "Immobilisation circuit" or similar on Google The thing to remember is the installation is the major key, no good doing the work if your wires are loose, or if the splice is easily seen or joinable again. Areas to thing about: -Fuel system -Spark/electrical -You can do a secondary system which kills the AFM(s) to throw the car into limp mode (I have a car-jack button to kill the AFMs as I get out of a the car if I get jacked). With the right electronic circuits, you can do anyting, stuff like flashing lights if the car is started without pressing a key (not many times do brake and headlights flash while driving), or a friend of mine has a blinker box attached to a circuit going to the horn, no press button = constant horn applied while car is running, needless to say the car was 'attempted' stolen at one point, but was left sitting there with the engine running and the horn blasting for 2 hours while the police where called for noise pollution, and he was boarding a train to come home from work to shut his car up LOL B.

Subie, Castrol Syntrans 75w-90 Crack the filler bolt (to make sure you can actually fill the damn thing), then remove the draining bolt and allow it to drain. You can then get a pumping tool to pump the transmission fluid from the bottle to the filler hole. You should fill until the fluid reaches the filler hole, it's designed to take only the right amount of fluid (when on level ground!!). If you cant get the filler bolt undone for some reason, you can always remove the transmission lever from inside the car, and pour down the hole there, and from memory (the GTST box I used in my 180sx) took 2.5 litres of fluid, but someone else can confirm that. B.

Nobody has mentioned the wet/dry arguement yet, so here I go with the spanner in the works. When I do a compression test (usually I only bother on cars I am buying), I do 2 tests, a dry, followed by a wet test. I do as mentioned in Manual method, remove the ignitor, spark plugs, set WOT, also remote the fuel pump fuse, and test cylinder by cylinder with my readings written down. Then I get a bout 10ml (cap ful) of CLEAN engine oil into the cylinder hole and leave it for a minute or 2 so that the oil can spread to the edges of the piston and form a thin layer and SEAL the piston ring area. Then I re-test as above, and re-record the results and figures. The reason for doing this is because in Dry testing, you get figures based on what the piston is pushing up, minus any pressure lost through the rings, and any pressure through the valves. In Wet testing, you get the piston pressure minus any pressure lost through the valves, so it gives you a little bit extra in information. If you see MASSIVE difference in figures from a wet and dry test, it means the rings are worn, and you would have gotten low-ish readings from the initial test. If you see almost no difference, it shows the rings are in very good condition, not loosing much pressure at all, but if you still have low readings, you might need to check your valves and seats. I last did a compression test on a Toyora Soarer 1JZ. Dry: 1: 165 2: 163 3: 167 4: 165 5: 164 6: 168 Wet: 1: 169 2: 168 3: 172 4: 168 5: 167 6: 172 This test shows that in both figures the engine is healthy, there isn't a huge difference in figures from piston to piston, and the figures are high enough to show there isn't much pressure loss or wear and tear. The wet figures are all around 3 - 5PSI higher than the dry figures, so there is a small amount of pressure lost on the rings, but not a great deal, nothing to be concerned about. It also shows that the vavles are sealing nicely, and are not an issue, I was happy with these figures, and purchased the car B.

R32 Owners: If your planning on installing Amps and Subs, something you seriously need to think about is the grounding system in your car. The standard grounding system in the R32 (I am using a GTR as my reference point) is adequite for a headunit, and for the standard Skyline electrical system, but if you add high powered audio amplifiers, D-class monoblocks, and other hardware, then the stock grounding from the battery will be insufficient to power your gear. The biggest give-away that you have a grounding problem is that horrible engine noise that you sometimes get through your speakers, this is caused by the Alternator powering your device instead of the power feed coming from the battery. Electrical Theory: Basically, Electrical current (against popular thought) actually pushes the electrons FROM the positive terminal or power feed TO the negative terminal or Grounding point. If the grounding point is not up to the demand, then the Positive feed can not push out as much amperage. If your system is a sh1t-hot system, but you have the stock 8-gauge grounding fromt he battery to chassis to engine block, and your running a 4-guage power feed from the positive terminal to your amp(s), then when the system gets cranking, the system will bottle-neck at the 8-guage battery - chassis ground, and start demanding power from somewhere else that can both feed and ground adequitely. Guess what, the only other powersource in the car that can possibly meet the demands of your high-end audio gear is your alternator, so the system starts feeding from power from the Alternator as well as the battery, and thus, you have engine noise. How to fix this problem: Head to the local Jaycar/JB Hi Fi, Dick Smith Electronics, Etc, and get yourself a car battery terminal that will fit your battery. Next, get yourself either 4-gauge, or even some 0-gauge wire, probably about 2 meters will be sufficient, and your set to start work. Basically, you need to remove the current grounding from the battery to chassis to engine block, and replace it exactly as it's installed currently, but with the thicker wire. Remeber, current needs a clean path, so have some sand paper on hand, and where the cable gets grounded to the chassis, clean the metalic area completely until it's beautiful and shiny, then strip back the cable sheith and bolt down the cable (I like to use some clear-coat once this is done, to provide a barrier against oxygen getting into the freshly sanded metal and attracting a rust-spot). The bitch is grounding to the engine block, but with some patience and time, you will be able to get under the throttle body and undo the current ground and replace. This will resolve 90% of engine noise from from an R32 GTR's audio setup, if you still have engine noise, you haven't grounded the amplifiers correctly, but that's for another How-to or informational thread. Thanks. B.

LOL!!!! I know your taking the p1ss, but something quite sad is there are people that get out in the rain and do their burnouts, not because the car is just so sh1t it cant spin in the dry (that's only 1/4 of the reason) but because they genuinely believe they are NOT wearing tires out, because tires dont wear if it's wet. There ARE sad people around. Back on Topic, I use the gears to slow me down, it's how I was shown to drive, and I feel I have control over the car, if something comes up and I suddenly need to accelerate, I am in gear and I just put the foot on the correct pedal, no shuffling for gears, having to guess the correct gear, it's already there. Some of the arguments against backing off in the gears are that the box wasn't designed for reverse power transfer (power from wheels to motor), that replacing brake pads is quicker and cheaper than a clutch/gearbox, etc but there is also the issue of the law requiring that the driver always be 100% in control of the vehicle, and this also includes being in gear when applicable (you can neautral at the traffic lights with the clutch out, but otherwise unless driving changing gears, the vehicle should always have a gear engaged (not that this law is ever policed, but it's another law that's there if the cops are clutching at straws to book someone). B.

If a filter is done up to the right torque settings, you shouldn't need tools to remove it. Every single car I have purchased in the last 5 yrs has had some spanner in the workshop try to tighten the neck of the friggin filter, resulting in squashing and possible damage to the rubber seal, and making it damn near impossible to get the filter off after the heat has helped it to stick. All cars (including my GTR) had a screwdriver help me to convince the filter to let go and give up, but after that, hand tight has been more than enough to make a strong seal with the filter and make it possible to get off by hand only. B.

For god sakes make sure you have decent wheel studs that grip properly, and that you make sure everything is fitted right, Spacers are bloody dangerous if some spanner fluffs the install. I had centrical spacers on my wheels of a 180sx. the spacer was installed incorrectly, snapped 2 studs, sheared another stud, and then the wheel nut came off on the 4th and last stud, all this was while I drove along a highway at 1am from Brisbane back to Sydney, and was doing 110km/h when my rear wheel overtook me NOT GOOD!!!! Also, try something, stick a wheel on a 5cm rod, and wheel it around the desk, place a bit of pressure down and try to keep the wheel straight. Now get a 15cm rod, and do the same thing with the same pressure on the rod, and see which one is so much harder to keep the wheel straight with applied force. From this simple experiement, you will know why Spacers are illegal, and it's not for the same reason as Exhausts, pod filters, larger turbo's etc. There is a true safety feature for these things. B.

You know Wheel spacers are actually illegal to be fitted, and they place massive stres on your hubs as well...... B.

Probably is a good clutch, there is possibly a chance there is air in the hydrolic clutch line, therefore the air is compressing and your loosing clutch pedal, and it's not disengaging/engaging like it should. Take it back, tell them the issues, tell them you have given it the 1/2,000kms to see if it just needed to bed in, but it's getting worse, and get them to check it. B.

I have noticed my local BP has been 'closing' the Unleaded pumps on cheap Tuesday, forcing people to fill on Premium or Ultimate, but suddenly Wednesday (and without the fuel truck delivering more petrol) they have enough fuel in the storage tanks to re-open the unleaded pumps. Fuel criminals like this are just scumbags!!!! B.

+1 for Final Inspection, best detailer in Australia!!!! B.

URL link doesn't work :S

Try swirl remover, better than scratchX, but with a bit of elbow grease, and once you get through the wax left on the paintwork, you will get some difference from scratchX as well. B.

Correct, and I never said he custom blends polishes either. What I said was "His products are custom-blended to his specifications" I apologise for not being specific enough and saying his wheel cleaner, glass cleaner, QD, etc and I apologise for any confusion caused for this. B.

I have been a customer of Damian's for the last 5 yrs on and off with 3 different cars. Depending on the product depends on the usage, but it's been that long since he held a sydney workshop that I do admit my details might be a touch sketchy!! Below is a direct quote from the keyboard of Damian Angelucci Himself, make up your own mind on the products he uses from this quote: To all the peple wondering why my work is 'so expensive', well it isn't, I charge less than other high-end detailers in Australia. But FI is the very best in the country and the services are world-class. Not because we detail expensive cars, but because my 12 years exp in my specialised industry and the use of the best tools equipment, chemical (mostly manufactured exclusively to my spec)is quality. To me, this says the products he uses are to HIS specifications, as I mentioned originaly Detailing is something that takes care and an eye for the small things as well as the big things, it's amazing what a difference a detail can make when you do EVERYTHING, as opposed to only do most of the job. (imagine washing the entire car, and leaving the tires filthy, it just wouldn't work). B.

HAven't read much past the first page of the thread, because it wasn't really showing signs of promise..... Anyway, I used to do on/off work for a company called Final Inspection, who where doing detailing for Mercedes at the 2006 Australian International Motorshow, the Melbourne International Motorshow, and Brisbane as well (I only did work for AIMS in Sydney). This comapny is one of the best detailing companies in Australia, he specialises on not only the crazy priced high-end exotics, but also works on your every-day cars such as Nissan, Toyota, Mitsibishi, Suzuki, etc. He not only details the cars, but sells a very promising range of product for detailing, and provides demostrations on how to make the most of the product. His products are custom-blended to his specifications, and are some of the best you can get for a reasonable price in Australia. I use P21s wax on my cars, it doesn't do much more than add a wet-look and decent protection to the car's finish, but then wax isn't designed to modify the look of a car, it's designed to protect the appearance and paintwork of the car. My usual day of detailing goes something like: - gently rinse car with watering can (water restrictions here in Syd) - apply non-suds detergent with lamb's woll mit and use long straight sweeping action to wash off more stubburn dirt. - Use watering can to rinse off soapy water and use a technique to also 'wash' the water off. - Now that car is almost dry, I use a Waffle Weave style chamois to dry the rest of the car leaving it perfectly dry. - Feel the paint gently to see if it's smooth or has imperfections. - If imperfections are felt, I use Meguiars quick detail and a clay-bar to remove the imperfections in the paint and then Waffle weave to dry the car again. - Now I use a Final Inspection polish and panel by panel use polish on, polish off to polish entire car and give it a lustful gleme. - Now I use Nano clean and Nano seal to bring out the colour and shine of the paintwork, it's not a cheap product, but when used, it makes a MASSIVE difference on the paintwork, and it's also that secret step that brings a dull paintwork back to sparkling life. - After Nano Seal, I use the P21s and apply again in a panel by panel wax on, wax off technique to apply over the entire car. After doing the P21s, I allow it to sit overnight (usually dark at this point anyways) and the Wax gently bonds nicely with the paintwork while it sits. Next Morning I go over the car with a duster or dusting brush to remove any dust that has fallen on the car fromt he night before, and I apply a 2nd coat of P21s wax to the car for a 2nd and longer lasting seal to the shine and paintwork. The usual result is the car goes from having minor scratchs, possible swirl marks, and obviously dirty to having a mirror like shine, cleaming, and looking better than show-room condition. Notes: Do NOT use polish (or any abrassives) on glass, as it finely scratches the glass, and then dirt gets trapped causing the windows to turn to shit over time. DO wax and otherwise treat the glass the same as the rest of the car. Only polish the car when required, as polishing removes paintwork in very fine layers, eventually leaving no paintwork left to polish. When polishing/waxing/Nano cleaning and Sealing, do it panel by panel, that way the chemicals are not exposed to the elements of the atmosphere and reacting with these elements instead of your paintwork like they are designed to do. I am pushing to see if I can get Damian from Final Inspection to come up to Sydney for a week and do a detailing week where he details cars for members, but he may also be able to hold a detailing workshop, bring some product up and sell it, but otherwise you can look on his website for products, and he is more than happy to box and mail to you. B.

As already mentioned, this means lick-all, because your itemised call records dont show INCOMMING calls, therefore they will claim the call just have been recieved, the phone was still 'in use' and therefore the infringement sticks. It sucks, but that's the way life goes. I was almost done for the same thing, but was given a 'formal caution' on keeping my attention on the road when I was changing tracks on my MP3 player. Same deal, saw the glowing screen, assumed it was a mobile, got pulled over and I told them I didn't even have a mobile on me at the time, it was an mp3 player. I was told that if they deemed it as such, the MP3 player could be seen as driving without due care, and attract a neg driving infringement. They basically have nothing btter to do, and innocent until preven guilty is a crock of shit, you have to PROVE TO THEM your innocent!! B.

What exactly is the phone for?? Is it worded "use of a mobile phone", or "use of a mobile communications device while driving"??? The wording will be the key to getting off or not, if it is alleged that you where using a mobile communications device while driving, then they are quite correct, you WHERE using a mobile communications device. Albeit you where not using it as a communicating device, but you where using it no the less. If they claim you where talking on your mobile phone, then you have very good grounds to fight the claim, because you where not 'using a mobile phone', you where using a music player. The other thing is phone records will not prove beyond a doubt that you where not using a mobile phone, because they are 1-way transparent (i.e they show you didn't initiate a call, they dont show if you received a call, as doing so would be against the telecommunications privacy legislation). B.