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RE001 (Jap made) treadwear is 220, traction A temp A. Try and find a tyre lower in the treadwear but with a AA traction rating.

This is true, but not for too much longer. Melton is a hole and I hate living here. Anyone want to buy a house, nice quiet neighbourhood, lots of fast food close by, will do a speshal superfunhappytime price for SAU members Except you Hamish, you get nohappytime round eye price!

So where you towing it Hamish? Tip? lol

Agreed, try the Coil Pack loom too, pull it out and check the whole thing for spits. Check your battery earth too.

Cruised into the city on the way to work this morning with a 33GTR, nice straight standard car too, just exhaust from what I could see. If you're on here mate good to see a GTR driver that doesn't wanna race you just because you pull along side. We cruised the whole western Hwy from Melton then down the Deer PArk bypass onto the ring then westgate, I lost him on the bridge because he was in the left lane and got stuck in the traffic... For future reference mate, it's left lanes till you get to just before Williamstown Rd then all the way over to the right. Works everytime!!!

Gun Metal 35GTR on Eastern Freeway just after Death Valley (that's what I call the part closest to the sity whit no concrete barrier) outbound. Had a blonde chick driving and dude in the passenger seat, was very very nice, gave em a nod as I drove next to them he nodded back then I drove off. Fcuken nice exhaust on it too, sounded real nice.

did 200km today and tyres seem good. Squeek is still there but I am going back to Centreline on Thursday so will get them to look at it then.

Yeah those Maxxis tyres are worse than aids, they are noisy, they handle like sh1t in the wet and they can't hold a line through a corner. I'm actually surprised that BJTM sell them. I gave em a shot and won't do it again, I also see them on a heap of cars too. I have tested the tyres on the back and they have fixed the 4wd issue I had today. BONUS!! I have about 10,000km left in my RE001's on the front so when they are cactus I will get another 2 KU31 so I can see what they are like. I'm all for spending a bit of moolah on tyres but if I can get the same performance and safety out of a cheaper well known brand then of course i'm going to do it!! The treadwear rating on the KU31 is 320 that's 100 more than the 220 on the Japanese RE001 that I have (not sure what the Aussie made ones are) so they should last a bit longer too. Oh one other thing, I now have a whole 2L pump bottle full of tyre shine from today. I asked them if they buy it in bulk and if I could buy some and they said if I got a bottle they would fill it for me for free, I went over the road to the servo and low and behold they had a 2L pump bottle sitting there for 8 bucks, took it to the counter offered the guy 6 and he said ok hahahahaaa!!! The bad thing, I tried to use it tonight after washing my car and the thing leaks out the top everytime you pump it... FAIL. My baby is now clean and shiny and silver instead of carbon black, wheels have no more ceramic dust on them and interior is spotless for a change. If I can be bothered I may got out tonight for a photo shoot.

Went the Kuhmo KU31. $145 each for 235/45/17 XL 97W from The Tyre Professionals on McIntyre Rd Sunshine. Those guys are great, used to be Sunshine TyrePower but went out on their own. The place is always chockas and it's not uncommon for them to have all hoists full and be changing tyres out in the car park. Will let you know what the tyres are like once I get em scrubbed and get some km's into them. They put them on the front and I had the RE001 on the rear but on the drive home the 4wd gauge was reading when I was at cruising speed which it shouldn't do, I put this down to them being a little smaller in diameter than the KU31 and the car thinks they are slipping because they are spinning a little quicker. I got home and jacked up the car to change the KU31 to the rear, fark me they used a little bit too much torque on the rattle gun because I couldn't budge em without standing on the cross brace. Not ideal but I got em off. Going on a long drive tomorrow so will see how they go. Oh one more thing, annoying squeek/creak has returned although a lot less than it was, it is either the inner balljoint that is waiting for parts to come in, or the new urethane bushes. I think it is coming from the bushes though, will this go away? it is still only on passenger side.

So there seems to be alot of difference in the power that 32GTR's are making on NIStune, mine made 240.2kW ATW and 392.3Nm on 14PSI, stock engine, stock turbos, front pipes hiflow cat 3.5inch Kakimoto exhaust, K&N Panel and running on the stock boost solenoid with no spikes at all. Linky in RB26 Turbo upgrade thread I am in love with mine and it's also pretty cool having the consult/datascan/nistune software on the laptop because you can log your drive and have a full dash board which shows just about every dial you can thing of, even TPS and injector duty cycle and OS sensor.

Also pull your Coil Pack harness out and check it for any splits, mine had a few splits in it which was causing it to die under load at random times. Pulled the harness out and grabbed the Nitto and taped the whole harness. This fixed the issue instantly. Also check out teh eart on your battery, may be lose or shitty cable.

Was not as bad as the front. Here's a break down of what got done: 2 outer ball joints 2 rack inner rods 2 rack inner rods for HICAS Nolathane Adjustable upper control arm bushes inner/outer both sides 4 wheel alignment Here's what still needs to be done: 2 front inner ball joints (waiting on stock to come into Oz) 2 outer HICAS ball joints Drivers side front inner CV Boot (split badly) Tyres (will be done tomorrow) Shocks need doing but are just tired at the moment no leaks but very soft. (COILOVERS HERE WE COME) I gotta say, Chris is a top bloke he gave me a bit of shit for not washing my car but he is going to get it back to the way it should be. It is driving a million times better than it was and I can now almost fully take advantage of the handling that a GTR delivers, baby steps, baby steps.... Beer Baron - I would get the RE001 again but they are a bit too expensive at the moment and I need to get the tires yesterday if you know what I mean, this has been the only time in my life that I have skimped on rubber as I am a firm believer that good tyres really can save your life over crappy tyres. I had RE001 all round but due to the suspension issues they wore out in less than 15000km the Maxxis went on to get me to work till I could get in to get it all fixed, now it's cost me a little more than I thought so will need to put semi decent rubber on instead of the RE001. Kuhmo make good tyres and for a car that is a streeter and will NEVER see the track they will be fine till I need 4 new ones. Then I will consider top of the range or similar. I only put the no namers there really for a comparison on the prices and to see if anyone had actually used them and rates them. Sometimes the cheaper tyres can actually trump the bigger names in terms of performance and safety but at the price of road noise. Anyways enough novel writing, I will let you guys know what the Kuhmo are like when I get them.

yeah got a price on Hankook Ventus V12 (H424) $175. Oh and Marangoni (WFT?) for $180 Motor Magazine Tyre of the year for 2007 even though they came in the bottom third for most tests lol (apparrently they paid the most to Motor Magazine to win the prize hehehehe jks) Think I will just get the KU31.

Ok guys, got another question for you.... Tyre recommendation for front of the GTR.... The rears are 235/45/17 Bridgestone RE001 (adrenaline) current fronts are Maxxis MAV-1 or some shit. These are the new front tyre options in same size as rears (in no particular order): 1. Maxxis MAV-1 - $140ea 2. Kumho KU37 - $155 3. Bridgestone ER300 Turanza - $235 4. GoodYear Regatta - $179 5. Nankang - $115 6. Kumho KU31 - 145 7. Pirelli Dragon - $175 Now of that list I am thinking the KU31 or Dragon but have never had either so not too sure. I'd love another set of GY GSD3 but too expensive. I am thinking probably the KU31 I have heard the Dragons don't wear as well and have a bit of sidewall flex but how reliable is the intawebz for info lol

Waiting on balljoint to be delivered from Nissan and then good to go!! Car is being put back together now. Minor Surgery will do it good I rekon. Then once the other 2 balljoints come in from Japan, back to centreline for fitting. Now gotta think of what tyres to get for the front.

Call back from centreline already, not good news. Looks like I'm going to be running into about $1500. All 4 front balljoints need replacing, rack ends, rack mounts, upper control arm bushes, HICAS rack ends. Then add 2 new front tyres to the price as well also Nissan only have one ball joint in stock, the other 2 are 2 weeks away from Japan, interesting how Centreline can get them for $150 instead of the rediculous amount I got quoted from them. He said it was very tired in the front end but he will get it back to the way it should be. Will update as the day goes on.

Car is at Centreline now. Chris is a top bloke, he said he'll fix it. I have high hopes

Yeah thanks for the innnnnput Hamish!! I called them today because trying to do the ball joint and the upper control arm busshes by myself having never done it before is going to take ages me thinks, then I gotta get in for a wheel alignment and 2 new front tyres and probably won't have time. I am booked in at centreline on Friday morning. Supply of outer front balljoint, fitting of balljoint, fitting of control arm bushes and a wheel alignment is going to run me $500. Interesting note, I called Pedder$ to see if they could order me the balljoint (before I called Centreline) and they said it would take about 2 weeks as they are genuine Nissan ordered from Japan, now they said $150 each and when I called nissan I got qouted $440 minimum for one. Centreline are same price as Pedder$ and they have one in stock. Hopefully all this will fix the issues I am having. I don't think I can wrangle anymore money from the wife to put on the car.

Zardos, would you mind if I asked how much it was, as it looks like I am going down the same path. I spent all sunday at a mates house goind over all bushes and doing a bit of diagnostic, took out the stabiliser bar D Bushes and game them a coat of rubber grease, noticed when we took them out that they were fine (I wouldn't really know but my mates a mechanic and he said they were fine, they looked fine to me too though) no tears or degradation and they were still in good shape. I then went for a blocky to see if the noise prevailed, BA-BUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMM still there. Put the front under load by turning left and right with car on the ground and went to town on all the bushings with a bit of WD40, noise disappeared, thought GREAT went for a blocky again and first speed bump, noise returns. AAARRRRRRRRRGHH!!!!!! Went through a whole can of WD40 and a can of CRC on just about every joint, bush and pivot we could get to, noise still there. I drove the 40kms home to see if it just needed to work itself in a bit but no, still there after 150kms. I got home tonight to see if I could hear where it was coming from and came up with the following bit of info.... Full lock to the left and me bouncing the car from passenger side door sill and the noise isn't there, if I strighten up or turn full lock to the right and then bounce however, the noise is there and loud as ever. I am stuck as to what it could be. I will be doing the ball joints (passenger side is rooted) on Saturday and also putting in adjustable upper control arm bushes to fix the rediculous amount of wear I get on the insides of my front tyres (get about 10,000km from my fronts at the moment) and then see how we go. If noise still there I'll be off to the specialists to get the rest of it done i.e. bushes and coilovers.

yeah I'd go to Fulcrum if I was in QLD. Pitty the only Fulcrum we have here in VIC is just a distribution and training centre

Good idea MrKotter, will need to go through that thread again and have a look see. Didn't get to centreline today, called them at 10am and asked when they were open till and they said 11 so didn't have enough time to get there. I did call Ni$$an to see how much front ball joints were and they said the following to me... "yeah we can supply these to you, they come with that arm attached to them too, you are looking at $440 for the front drivers side and $520 for the front passenger side. The drivers side is in stock in QLD but we will need to source the passenger side from Japan." That is a lot more than the $150 per side that I got in the original quote from Pedders. I also had another idea, been thinking about it and the creak/squeek shouldn't be coming from the balljoint and Pedders rekon that 1 D Bush for the swaybar needs replacing so I think this may be the cause of the noise. I am going to jack up the car tomorrow and remove it and put some rubber grease on there to see if the noise goes away, if it does than sweet I won't have to live with my car sounding like it's running over clowns every bump, this will be a temp cover up if it works until I can get it fixed with all the other stuff, hell I might throw on some coil overs while I have all the bits out.

Saw that same black Lambo driving past me on Burwood Rd yesterday while I was walking from my car, Awesome thing you can hear it coming from a fair way and when he backs off it spits flames and splutters all tough like

Just looked through their site, doesn't look like they have everything I need Might go down to Centreline and Traction tomorrow and see what they come up with. The creaking and squeeking is unbearable! Thanks for the suggestions

Cool, I guess no one else has any input. Back to the drawing board and the search engines to find the answers. Can't say I didn't try.

So I suppose next question is, if not Pedders, Where should I take the GTR to get all the above sorted??