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Buy a Supra, then who cares if you smash it... Even better by a fully sik commonwhore wagon riding on the bumpstops with the rear full of subs!! AWESOMENESS AT IT'S FINEST!!! and it would chew a 34 GTR to pieces lol

OK I have searched to no avail, well sort of, I got answers but there are conflicting ones. I have also searched the web elsewhere. Here are my questions... I have an R32 VSpecII and need some help with my injectors. I am unsure if they are aftermarket or not. I read that stock RB26 ones are brown but mine are yellow which I read are Nismo items. Now I also read that the stockies were yellow so I am unsure. Do I have aftermarkets or not? I will get a pic of them tomorrow for you all. Next question is about my turbos. I can't get a good look at the bottom of them to see a model number and I can't see anything from the top except that they are Garrett items. I am running 1BAR through them and don't want to go higher in case they are stock ceramic wheeled. When should they be hitting full boost by if they are stock items? I am hitting 1BAR at 4000rpm which is pretty high in the rev range for stock items considering they have a full exhaust from the dumps back (not sure if after market dumps either). Here is the Dyno chart of the boost curve I have a NIStune on board too just so you know, and the air is sucking through a K&N Panel. Could I be so lucky to have N1 units or something else? Here is the power curve of the same runs Any help would be great. Short of that I guess the only other way to know about the turbos for sure is to get under it and get the model numbers off them. Dunno bout the injectors except to take em out and get them flow tested.

spotted SHYSKY last night around 7:30pm going up the westgate to altona. I was in my GTR following you for a while till you took off weaving through traffic. I ain't losing my license to follow you doing that crap. Then when we hit the bridge another grey 33 pulled out. Dudes... It's not 1999 anymore, the speed limit on the westgate is 80 not 110! lol

what was teh comp reading across the cylinders?

Are you sure it's an RB26 and not just a 25 with 26 timing cover?

AFAIK R33 have Plastic timing gear cover. R32 have metal? Could be as easy as that but I dunno. I have R32 VSpecII so it's black plastic for me

I'm glad I live on the west side of town I got pulled over the other night in the car park at the local supermarket (cop did a U bolt and followed me in there) I thought, here we go, I had done nothing wrong but knew I was gonna get pulled over. Parked the car and the t-bone parked next to me. I got out as did the copper and he gave me a bretho (2nd in 30 mins) and then went straight to the back tyres and gave them a feel and a once over, also ran his hand up the inside of the wheel arch. I said "don't worry not rubber up there, and brand new tyres too" he goes "Why new tyres? are you a car freak?" I laughed and said "no, I needed new ones as the old ones were about 5 years old and in need of replacing" he goes ok then tells me I have a tail light out as he is walking to back of the car. I don't know why I though this but I had this vision of him pulling out the maglite and busting my read light, but he just showed me I had water in one of my rears and said to get it fixed. I went home, drilled a 1mm hole in the bottom of the light water drained out then I replaced the globe. Too easy Cops aren't all that bad but some of them are just plain d!cks

The loom for the coils plugs into the ignitor. Should be a silver metal thing with finns on it and 4 screw holes. On a 32gtr it sits on top of the valley cover at the back of the engine, dunno bout 33 though, and 34 have the ignitor built into the coils

HAHAHA!! Sorry I'm a NOOB!! For some reason I was thinking for street use only? Dunno what I was smoking!

Car sitting on a dyno is not the same as car being on a hoist. End of the day it is up to them if they want the potential legal problems it could pose if something went wrong. I'm with Drag and GTST, try the ignitor and the CAT, forget about the cam for now, do the easy quick stuff first!

The workshop is very unlikely to lend you their tools and hoist to do the work for yourself, what do they get out of it? Plus their are insurance issues they would need to think about by letting someone in to work under a hoist that doesn't work there. Bit different if the engine was out and on a stand, but not on whole car up on a a hoist Seriously dude, rather than just get everyone to list every possible thing it could be, just pick the car up, thank the workshop for their time and "effort" and take your car somewhere else. You will probably find out that it is something very simple and take not much time to fix, or it will be something major and take a bit of work, either way at least you will know what is wrong with it. If the new workshop can't find the problem then you haven't lost anything except maybe a hundred bucks for trailer hire and a bit of your time. That and your car will look like a fully sik tokyo drifter on a trailer lol

Trailer the car to a new workshop me thinks. If you have internal damage all this stuffing around with the ECU changes is just making it worse as each time he is having to run the engine again. You said the workshop said he doesn't think it would be the cat but has he bothered to check it yet? Maybe exhaust is crushed, maybe inlet pipes are sucking closed, maybe he left the brakes/handbrake on, Maybe his Dyno is broken?

Those Bridgestone look noisy compared to the Yokies. Nice looking tyre though

Heat resistant super glue and bolt heads FTW!! It will hold if you baby it to the place and do it from a cold start so engine don't heat up too much. Or just wait till you have the funds and the new turbo and do it properly LOLZ at this thread!!

problem with the real cheap filters can be that the insides of them colapse, or they just don't filter as fine. I have the Drift one in and don't have the issues with the pressure that Johnny has. Also the magnet in there adds that little bit of piece of mind. Each to their own I guess though. Use what ever you think works best with your car

maybe you have an alarm with valet mode???

Havw you got the 446 premium with the four button remote or the single button? If you got the 4 button then... Programmable Features Built in turbo timer: Allows you to arm the car with the built in turbo timer running for either 1 or 3 minutes

Sounds like the sender may be kaput or the gauge may be stuck. Oil pressure light on start up is normal, it goes away after about 1 or 2 seconds. What oil are you using?

could just be your springs. I had the same problem in my rally car (mazdaspeed suspension) was only slightly annoying on the road.

At the end of the day if you are dropping your oil every 5000kms it doesn't really matter what filter you use, they are all pretty much going to do the same thing in that short a time. Purolator are very good too. K&N and the DRIFT ones both have a lug nut on the ends that make it very easy to get off with a socket too!

Dunno if they are available in Oz or not, nor how much it would cost but rekon you'd get a few people into a Koenigsegg CCX or CCR. Awesome, Awesome car IMO!!

I wouldn't be complaining about $17 a tyre sheesh!! Just remember that although they may still have 50% tread or more they may be a good 6 or 7 years old which is pretty much the life of a tyre these days. Same thing goes for re-treads you are getting new tread on those things but the sidewalls may have seen over a million KM's. Just be careful if you fit second hand or retreaded tyres is basically what I'm saying... Unless it's for drift then go ahead!

Cooler oil lol!!! Sorry couldn't resist. AFAIK Oil temps should be kept lower than 100 Degrees C as that is where it starts to deteriorate. I could be wrong though and it may be closer to 120 Deg C.

Saw FNBIG1 on a jacked up F150 with massive mud tyres and teh rest of the super offroad fourby kit. Also saw MUDSLT on an old Patrol

what was wrong with your number plate?