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White R34 GTT on Guest St in Hawthorn, looks pretty stock except for tints and exhaust. It's next to my work but I've never seen the guy who drives it, I think he's a ninja

Yeah mate that's them. I am off herritage way a bit further up from there.

Oh and I saw a nice silver R33 GTR today in the emergency lane on the side of westgate freeway near power street exit just before you go into the tunnel heading onto the Monash. I tooted but couldn't stop to see if you were ok because I was mega late for work. Was about 9:45am

not too close now or you'll be eating flames and gravel hahaha!! I'm off James cook drive so no doubt you'll catch me sooner or later. I'll keep an eye out. Heaps of dickheads on JC Drive too, mostly come from that house with all the Commonwhores sitting out the front! and NONE of them can drive for shit! Beauty of living in Melton is, you go on the freeway on-ramp from the driving range heading to baccus marsh and you can almost hit redline in 2nd without breaking the speed limit! I love 110 zones

Yeah that's me, silver 32 VSpecII, tinted windows, pillow on front passenger seat for the missus hahaha. I only seen one gun metal 32 it's a GTR too, I flashed the lights at him once and he flashed back, never had a chat though. The purple 33 chased me into Safeway once and we had a chat, hes a good bloke but I think maybe a bit too enthusiastic hahaha!! I am in Melton West bought a house there 2 years ago but grew up in Preston and West Heidelberg, you?? If you see me round give us a wave, if I gots time (I usually do) I will pull over and have a chat.

80mm, mesh on each end and I think 6 prong plug

WOW, my first spot!! That would have been me mate. I think I have the only silver 32 in Melton, The black 34 lives in the next street over from me. There is also a gunmetal 32GTR and a purple 33 that I have seen. I'll keep an eye out for you.

Thanks, but why then would it have the orange stickers? Do the VSpec II have different AFM to the standard GTR?

I am unsure if I have Z32 AFM's or not. I have spent the last 3 hours searching and getting info etc. but I have something a bit strange and a bit different... Both my AFM's have orange stickers, so you would assume they are Z32 items, however, the part numbers are different to what is stated on these forums. It should read 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 for Z32. Mine is 22680-05U00 A36-000-J70 Standard is 22680-02U00 Now I'm confused as to what I have and yes I read the number right, it is a 5 not a 2. I would say they are from the mods on the car from Japan and from the stickers, but the part number throws me. Car is a 1994 R32 GTR VSpec II, with Mines ECU, Full Kakimoto exhaust and still unsure if after market turbos or not (I can't see the numbers on them as not got underneath yet) Everyone I have taken in the car says it pulls harder than a normal GTR so I dunno. Any help?

Next question hahaha you thought it was over!! I am unsure if I have Z32 AFM's or not. I have spent the last 3 hours searching and getting info etc. but I have something a bit strange... Both my AFM's have orange stickers, so you would assume they are Z32 items, however, the part numbers are different to what is stated on these forums. It should read 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 for Z32. Mine is 22680-05U00 A36-000-J70 Standard is 22680-02U00 Now I'm confused as to what I have Ideas??

OKay, update. I pulled out my airbox and AFM's today and cleaned the AFM's with the new CRC MAF sensor cleaner (not cheap either at $17 a can from Bursons) They were FILTHY!! I mean these were dirtier than the broad minded females down at st.kilda or the cross!! When I first got the car let's just say it had a questionable compliance done on it, things that were supposed to be changed weren't and I know for a fact that they should have been, anyway back on topic, the air filter element in the airbox was a HKS foam jobby and when I pulled it out it was completely disintegrated and was being sucked through my engine and spat out as glowing embers out of my exhaust! I cleaned all the crap outta the box as best I could but left the AFM's as it was running fine. Today when I pulled them out for a clean there were bits of melted foam all over them, the botton AFM not too bad but the top seemed to cop the grunt of it all. I used 3/4 of the can cleaning them till the liquid ran clear. You should see the top intake pipe!! OMFG that is the next thing to pull off and clean. What I did see in there though was big metal spring type thing which I guess is there to stop the rubber hose from sucking closed, cool! I also ripped out the black pad that sits in the bottom half of the airbox, must be there to deaden sound a bit, don't need that Put it all back together and took it for a 20km drive, running perfectly!! And it pulls all the way to redline, where it used to go flat past 6k as the engine was probably leaning out! I am happy as a coke head in columbia!! Thanks for all the suggestions and help guys!

Spoke to my mechanic today, he didn't touch the TPS or the idle, so that narrows it down to just the Air filter oil on the AFM wires. I will clean them in Saturday with some contact cleaner and see how she goes. He said if it is still playing up aftr that then call him and he will see what else it could be. He's a pretty good dude, only charged me $250 for 100k service which was pretty sweet. He gets Nissan parts on the cheap as he does all the Nissan Patrol cop cars, CFA and SES and the dealer chops him out, plus for me!!

Thanks dude, I heard that the wire can break on the AFM too but I don't think that is the issue here as I can get cold idle no worries. Is the TPS easy to adjust? I am a backyard mechanic so don't really know what I'm looking for unless I go to my mates house as he is a mech. Also the idol control valve, how do I adjust it, I thought it was ECU controlled. What is the air regulator? Oh and how is the rebuild going?? can't wait to see the finished product! Spewing you moved to QLD, I would have come to see it if you were in VIC still

Does anyone have any input that might help?

ok cool, I also read on here that the turbos in a 32 VSpec II are steel as opposed to ceramic. Is this confirmed or not? as I have only seen it mentioned on these forums and I don't know anyone else with a VSpec II that I can ask or compare to. Could my problem also be as simple as K&N oil on the AFM's? When it got serviced the mechanic cleaned and re oiled the filter for me as he has all the stuff there for his mustangs. Another thing to add, it starts from cold first time every time with no problems, however, when it's warm and I start it the revs are real low and slowly build up, I am running Castrol Edge 5w30 oil in it as I get it on the cheap seeing as I work for BP/Castrol head office

Ok, problem seems to be better but not gone. It is still hunting but not as bad, also when I hit around 6000rpm or higher it seems to run out of go, like it dies it the ass for a few miliseconds, could it be leaning out? I pulled the kickpanel off the passenger side to check what ECU I have and it is a re-mapped Mines unit. Also it seems I have aftermarket turbos too, I can't see the properly but I was told the stockies on a BNR32 are IHI stamped or may have Nissan on them, my ones are Garrett (can't see which ones though). So from japan my car has the following; - Garrett turbos (not much help without knowing which ones sorry); - Mines ECU; - Kakimoto Exhaust (I assume off the turbos as it has aftermarket front pipe as well as rear) I don't know if it has Z32 AFM or not they have red stickers on them?? How can you tell? - 1.1mm Gap BKR6's - K&N Panel. So I know Mies tune to what mods the car has, and they tune to 100 octane, so I can assume it was tuned to the mods the car has on it as they were all on the car at import, it does run rich as it pops and flames every now and then and I get the lovely fuel smoke out of the exhaust, I still get aroung 480km to the tank (freeway driving for me hehehe). It says on the mines website that if you give them the numbers abd letters on the sides of the ECU with pics in an email, they will tell you the rev limit, boost cut etc of the tune. What could be causing my problems?? Should I dyno the car? Can they be re-tuned to Aus fuel? I would buy a PFC but the wife won't let me get one.

Thanks Jantolis. I pulled the plugs out today and checked the length with the NGK 7's i took out and they were the same size. They are gapped at 1.1 and are V grooved. They seemed to fix the problem for now but as it was an intermittent problem I will wait and see. Interestingly the car blows less smoke when boosting now and it has also stopped some of the backfiring. I just wonder why the Jap owner had 7's in there as opposed to 6's, ah well until I put the car on a dyno to see how much power it is making I will not know if it is standard or not. I know it has a full Kakimoto exhaust off the turbo's, and it has a twin plate Nismo clutch, apart from that I don't know what has been changed and I have nothing to compare it too as it is the first GTR I have driven apart from the other one at the dealer which drove like shit!

So the difference I can see between them is: BCPR6E - 14mm thread diameter, Projecting Insulator Type, Resistor, 6 heat range, 19mm thread depth. BKR6E-11 - 14mm thread diameter (Length from plug gasket circuit to terminal contact is 2.5mm shorter than BCP), Resistor, 6 heat range, 19mm thread depth, 1.1mm gap. I suppose I will know for sure when I take teh oldies out and see if they match up in length. Thanks for the help

So does anyone know if the plugs are okay? Also could it be something else? O2 sensor is next on the list

Hey guys, I think I have the answer to my question before posting this but I want to make sure of a few things first. Okay problem... Got car serviced 3 weeks ago and changed oil to Castrol Edge Sport 5w30, plus all the other usual things. Car was running fine until about the last couple of days has been spluttering and stuttering intermittently. It does it at idle sometimes, other times it is under light or heavy load, cold, hot, basically at random times. I put it down to 3 major things that it could be (in no particular order of importance) 1. Coils Packs 2. AFM 3. Spark plugs <-- almost a swear word round here lol Checked the coils today at my mates workshop (3 point Mercedes) with their gear and they are fine. AFM is also fine and I gave it a good clean too. Only thing left was spark plugs. I pulled them out too and they are pretty bad, #1 cylinder had next to no electrode left, all others were pretty low too, they are NGK 7 iridium or platinum. Anyways, I went to mates local Repco, super cheap and auto barn and no one could tell me the right plugs for the car! Well no one I spoke to at first. One guy had the OEM NGK iridiums but only 3 in stock, same guy also told me NGK don't make non iridium or platinum plugs for RB26! What Ever!! Anyways I gave up and stopped on the way home at my local supercheap and he was a HUGE help. I told him I wanted coppers he says "sure no probs" he had to do a cross reference of some numbers I gave him and he came up with NGK BKR6E-11. I am going to put them in in the morning but what I wanted to know was... Are the BKR6E-11 okay for the RB26? I have the same plugs in my Mazda Familia GTR so am a little hessitant as all the threads here say to use BCR not BKR. Could you guys PLEASE HELP. If they are the wrong thing I will just take them back and get the right ones. Thanks

So which day is better from a spectator point? Show and Shine or track day? At the moment I am going on the Saturday if that's track day

Cheers mate, I only wish I had gone through a broker though, rather than a dealer. Oh well live and learn.

So can someone please tell me when the track day is? I want to bring up the GTR. I looked on the website and it says it is on Sunday on the homepage, but on the event info page it says it is Saturday. I tried to email from their site but the email address is wrong and keeps bouncing back.

It's actually a metal plate as my 32 has it too you can read my thread if you want more info

Thanks for searching guys. Iron Chef - Have you seen this car before?? I am the first Aussie owner of it and I don't remember ever showing it to you. Maybe you saw it at the auctions. If it does have a twin plate clutch set-up it must be a bit worn. I did a 6000RPM Dump last night and it slipped like mad and I cooked it hard!! (whoops) It stank the whole way home which took about an hour of freeway driving. It seems ok today though. It is also extremely street driveable for a twin plate so it must be sprung centered or something as I have no probs driving it daily to and from work. I get no shudder or anything that I get in my Mazda Familia GTAe which has a sprung center Exedy HD Organic in it! Interesting..... Thanks guys I guess I will only find out once the thing needs to be replaced! Then it's gonna cost me another shit load of dosh! The brakes set me back $700 for a full set of Red Stuffs fitted and discs machined! They are awesome though but fark they dust up heaps! Oh well, price you pay for good brakes!