ACTIVE-LSD

There should be two plates. Pink plastic plate is the compliance sticker. The metal plate is the new Australian VIN number (6U9000-ECR33XXXX) which should pinned on top of the old japanese vin on the firewall. In your situation i would recommend contacting a local compliance workshop. explain your situation and they might be able to liase with DOTARS and issue a new sticker for a fee of course.

I use Denso Iridium Power. $58 for set of 6. heat range 20 (aka 6) right in the middle. shouldn't foul with my brand new coils. for the price alot easier than pulling plugs out on every few services.

Cheers will give it a go. Fortunately I have a spare ECU for testing as well.

My car is currently having the same issue. it's been gradual over course of a few months. use to choke a little on cold morning start ups. now i need to start it two or three times. car shakes like it's running out of fuel and i need to use abit of accelerator. I re-soldered my stock AFM and also tested with brand new. brand new battery. cleaned AAC used new gasket. got overzealous and purchased a brand new cold start valve. did not solve the issue. I've noticed if I reset the stock ECU. it starts first go until the next cold start. I wonder if it's fault with the ECU?

If your car is only being used for street use and want OEM quality then I recommend KYB SR Special shock absorbers + spring combo of your choice. I personally have KYB + RS-R Down Springs on my ECR33. F is lowered by 2 cm and R is 1.5 cm. Ride quality is firm and comfortable. going over speed bumps isn't brain shattering. 👍

AFAIK this is how it works. Since the 2018 changes to GST on low value imports. Some companies will pre-emptively collect 10% GST from your order. if your package gets stopped at customs then they will pay for it. if it doesn't then your guess is good as mine.

Yeah those rotor sizes are uncommon. I wonder if they were purchased from HFM Parts?? they are the only company that i know of that do irregular rotor sizes. They do R33 GTR 354mm front & 340mm rear.

Nah top plate is different as others have mentioned. not sure about the sides though. Are you sure SR Auto bodies are shut down? their website is still active. Nice looking good mate. how many hours did that take you? If you're fastidious with the colour difference, you can take off the bonnet hinge and get it paint matched in rattle cans by a paint shop. use matte clear coat as engine bay is not gloss from factory.

Unfortunately they only make replacements for GTR. No love for ECR33 , ER34

Normal for R33 and R34. If the original owners in Japan didn't have a lockup garage then they were all parked on the street exposed to the elements. Rust starts inside out from the intersecting metal sheets. Mine came from Hamamatsu, Shizuoka a region where it rarely snows and still have the same problem. Best you can do is a band aid solution and wait until you fix it properly. Australia is essentially sub-tropical so rust shouldn't develop too fast.

Simultaneously you can also try contact the Raws workshop who complied your vehicle. their company name should be on the pink compliance sticker.

Is the ECU stock? Alot of skylines came with Japanese chipped ECUs like mines, impul etc which runs on 100 RON. You could be pinging under load and not even realise.

I was considering getting one to use as a daily but couldn't find an insurer. yeah i've always wanted one but wasn't eligible under SEVS. SR20DET wagon automatic 90s nissan styling.

Yes we can import any passenger car over 25 years old. new law came into effect early 2019. replaced the old pre-1989 rule. However now the only hurdle is car insurance. i made several inquries for a Nissan R'Nessa GT Turbo and they never heard of the car model. so i doubt you'll be able to insure HR/ENR33 RB20E.

It's not even the power output on stock gtr but the engine response. after driving for a while the engine bay turns into a furnace. stock ecu then pulls timing and car turns into a nugget.

Welcome back bud!

excellent post BK. will definitely help those seeking clarification. was late model R33 97 - 98 also part of this revision?

Still chiming in. I recently got back into skylines from a near 10 year hiatus. feels good to be back.

Hi all, Strange issue has occured with my wipers. front wipers itself works but does not squirt water. now when i use the rear wiper switch the front starts squirting water? I have checked fuses. also made sure both electrical plugs on the water tank is connected to same colour. could anyone please shed some light? Thanks

Sorry to revive a old thread but i have the exact same problem. This issue is very intermittent and has also occured on my old S15. The way i would describe it is "losing both engine response and boost" only when the car gets hot. mind you my car is 100% stock even with standard airbox. i noticed if i leave car on idle for 2 mins or switch car off it will fix the problem immediately. I've been trying to diagnose the issue for some time now. first i thought it was due to engine oil, so i switched to 10w-30. then i thought it was fuel injectors so i got those professionally cleaned no. also changed fuel filters, engine coolant temp sensor, 02 sensors and coil packs. NO CHANGE! So it AFMs the last resort?

is this still available? if so, do you have any documentation of rebuild?

thanks for confirming.

Hi all, I was changing my gearbox oil, while doing so i was trying to find the front diff. is it located next to the gearbox on drivers side? very unsure as i might be looking at the transfer case. could someone please confirm? Thanks

Thanks for responding. how do you pull the disc off? is it held in by 2 screws?

Hi All, Just have a quick question, i'm planning on overhauling entire braking system and i need to remove the rotors. could you please give me brief summary on how to remove? Thanks