boostn0199

Yeah there pressed into the knuckle, you can get them out if you have a special puller that you have to make for it but then it depends how stubborn it is as there have been times I could get it off with the puller but others ive had to remove it and use the press. Probably easier just use a press since it only takes like 15min each side to remove the knuckle. I get my ball joints from road safe parts which bursons stock.

Aslong as they look fine wont have problem mines been fine.

You can buy them 2nd for like 50 aswell std one are perfect.

jack the front of the car really high when bleeding makes it so much quicker and easier.

Ontop of that it would be boring as hell to drive everyday as with that power you are not seeing boost in the rpm you spend most your time in on the road, when I drove a 500kw gtr on the road it really felt boring compared to a 350kw one that is until you go past 5-6k lol.

you just undo the 3 as much as u can then start hitting it with a hammer and soaking it in wd40 you need to break the seal first its just welded it self from not being removed for so long eventually you will break it loose then you can twist i. Just hit it all around the housing youll need a proper hammer its steel anyway so wont break only need the rubber one on the comp housing.

Really your 33 rack does that? The 6 ive gone through all only have 4mm extra travel each side.

I just unpluged from canister and left it to atmo.

Post up the pics.

Yeah thats why u recentre it so in other words after you recentre it the rack wont be at equal lengths at each side to compensate for the extra travel on one side. For example like you said you have 3mm travel on your drivers side and say 12mm on your passenger side. If the rack is left in its centre position like normal you will get more lock and one side due to the extra travel so when you recentre it to its new centre position which would be 4.5mm off the normal centre towards the drivers side you will now have 7mm travel each side asappose to before where it was 12 on one and 3 on the other. I know its hard to understand from reading it but might help if I draw a diagram.

You can change injectors without taking plenum off just need to take T/b off. I would say swap them small job for ruling something out.

Stay with stock pump or if you want just upgrade the gears in them, Im personally still using stock engine stock oil pump with 350kw last 3 years in my drift car and no problems so they can take the abuse.

Disconnect it from the intake and vent it to atmo and check to see if still getting oil. How much are we talking? Because you will always have a little bit in there when running a plumped up catch can unless u have a proper can that actually seperates. Also if u do plan to test it make sure u clean all the pipes and cooler first or else it will just throw the oil in the cooler again into the pipes giving u false results.

Those hoses go to the heater core so if you dont care about the heater you can get rid of them and just join them from where they orignally were.

Yep stock motor and its been thrashd as a track car for 3 years onn 300kw plus no prob. 1000s will make 350 easy wont be maxed.

Recentreing is simple. First install those offset spacers plus your tie rods, then go lock to lock and coubt the turns it takes then go back half way and that will be your new centre position for your rack. You now set your toe settings from this new centre position.

The stock headgasket and head bolts can take 1.5bar(21psi) pretty confortably as alot of people are still retaining the stock hg and bolts in there rb25 and neos so I wouldnt be very concerned about that.

Yeah if thats what your getting then you need to run the offset spacers like these ones. http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4130-high-tensile-steel-steering-rack-spacer-set.html so you will put the big spacer on the passenger side since it has more travel and small spacer on driver side then you just recentre the rack to even it out.

Are you trying with the tie rods disconnected? Disconnect them and take the rack lock to lock and measure each side. Post some pics to.

yep e85 ext gate and brae high mount manifold. Has plenty more potential but I wanted to stop around 350 mark as more is useless on my drift setup.

lol dam 400kw stealth, how does that even fit low mount.

What turbo are you running on it now?

ahaha yeah looks pretty beaten up atm. Was that your car the black one in the dyno when I was leaving?

Well heres my result 343kw on 18psi check the hypergear thread if you want to see my dyno readout. But overall turbo performed very well.

So I upgraded to the SS2 after blowing my tr43i and got it tuned today here are the results. Made 343kw on 18psi on a very conservative tune it has much more in it if I wanted to but my aim was 350kw as more power is useless to me on my drift setup. Comparing it to my old turbo the tr43i that made 340kw on 21psi with the same response but with more timing along with 3psi more and the turbo was really being pushed to its limit especially with the 0.63 rear. Overall very happy with the result as expected the turbo performed excellent. Also btw my setup consists of all the usual bolt ons, brae top mount mani and hypergear 50mm gate for ppl that dont know.