boostn0199

Not a problem its track car, just interestedwhy ppl choose to block pcv when going atmo.

At the moment I am running my catch can with pcv so rockers tee into the catch can then other port goes from catch to intake but I want to go atmo now instead. What happens if you run same setup as I have now except replacing the line from can that goes back into intake with just a breather? From what I read most choose to delete the pcv when going atmo does it make a difference if you keep it?

Yeah but thats the thing in reality both tie rods at same length dont have ssme toe in both sides due to many factors such as slight hits, arm bush joint wear etc. if u go check your threads on your rods after a shops alighned they are most likely not adjusted evenly due to to all those factors. Espcially track cars that have modified custom lcas and knuckles etc the issue is even more. For example on mine there is 5mm diffrence between both sides to get same toe.

Havent looked at this specific one but tge problem with all these self alignment devices ive seen they only tell u total toe out on the front which isnt that helpful since you have to assume when you take your initial measurement that both sides are equal which most times they are not. Thats why if doing it manually o stick with the string method of referencing front and rear tyres that way you will see the toe on each side, but if u just want something quick and temporary to adjust it which is better than an eye alighment itvwould serve its purpose.

Ye 80 is a pretty std price u would pay for a knuckle/upright can get them for half the proce if u get lucky find ppl parting em out but normal price is around 80

If u have anymore specfic questions u come across pm me i can help u out.

its very expensive and personally I would not go that route, I use JDI knuckles in my r33 drift car and they will only cost about 220 if u supply ur own knuckles for them to modified and they are very strong not one has broken to date or if you dont want to go down the cut shut path you can buy the driftworks knuckles for r33 which is basically a full steel knuckle but again proce is aorund 6-700 mark but atleast its a full knuckle not a bolt on kit.

I have two std rb25 blocks with one of them comp 155 across all except for cyl 6 which has a stuffed ring. Is it possible to take the whole piston assemble from cyl 6 on tge other block and just stick it in with no machining or anything.

I have two std rb25 blocks with one of them comp 155 across all except for cyl 6 which has a stuffed ring. Is it possible to take the whole piston assemble from cyl 6 on tge other block and just stick it in with no machining or anything.

The autobarns that I use always have plenty, clayton autobarn is one of them.

yep just go to the bolt shop and get a slightly longer bolt.

When i refer to no leaks i mean no leaks at any cooler pipe connections/joiners/hoses.

Its quite simple really, take off your intake pipe and stick the fitting on the end on the end of the turbo and turn on your air compressor and listen for leaks. In regards to pressure I usually test with around 40psi to know that it will definately not leak at what I run which is 20 although had accidently done it at 90psi once and still had no leaks.

Can be pulled out with screw in or weld on dent puller but might need some heat with oxy to then your pretty much going to have reapray most tge quarter

just buy a set of spits or oem your only doing it once and u will not need another set most likely for the life of the car so its not a big deal spending 600 or so.

Nup traction arms arent for camber its for minimising dynamic toe change.

buy another stock bottom end for couple of hundred bucks e85 these days 350kw is safe with it no need to waste money building.

oil drain had a kink in it pretty safe to say thats the issue.

Just trying to gather other ppls thoughts on an issue im having. Firstly motor comp trst 155 across all 6 just for some information, engine is rb25. Csr was on dyno few days ago tuned no problems. At the track after about 20min car started to miss when coming on boost. Cooler piping snd turbo intake drenched with oil but catch can empty. Not blowing any smoke out of exhuast. Previously when ive had blowby from too much oil my catch can would get oil in it but not this time. Checks the plugs and all were perfect. Afm is in cooler piping so was aldo covered in oil. Whenever i tried to go bsck on track for a bout a min it woyuld booat then start to miss and cut again. I cant really decide on what to ponpoint from the symptoms.

thats f**ked that many ppl waiting for months with no success.

Its great stuff its all i use on all cars from my track drift car to all dailys no problems with it and slightly better cooling.

Yeah its hes really early model turbos from about 4 years ago before the atr series.

For anyone interested these are my recent results of before and after on my rb25 with a hypergear tr43i. Red line was previous results and blue line is new, changes were brae hi mount manifold , convert turbo to external gate with hypergears 50mm wastegate. Car made more power, more torque and better response. Also feedback for the fiveomotorsport 1000cc injectors they were perfect so another positive result for them.

Yeah that was me mate I did last years car. Thanks for that, although I was pretty dissappointed by the welds on the frame wish I could redo the whole thing again lol. Yeah if you do end up wanting anything made up let me know will sort you out.

Thanks mate, I did mechanical engineering at swinburne and Im using BOC smootharc elite 230.