boostn0199

I cant think of anything you do on the street will make you need an oil cooler, really only when you doing continous laps around the track where it starts to be an issue.

If you actually need it for locking up the tyres yeah mu but if its just for handbrake general parking use Ive heard burson got some cheapies.

No the reason for it is the car is lowered from factory height causing your camber to rise which wears the inside so you need adj arms if the alignment cant be brought back into within spec with stock arms. Thats the real reason lol.

Basically if you launch hard enough so you dont bog down you light up the tyres hard and if you dont light them up youll bog so doesnt really help.

Dont use a rattle gun because there not a perfect 1/2 inch fit you will round it, chuck some loctite freeze and release it will help you out.

Dump 3rd or 4th at limiter from standing start and if smokes from the tyres clutch good if doesnt its gone lol thats my method.

I got a tomei for years no problems.

If your getting it tuned you will have no issues since it will be tuned around it and if stock ecu then as above down gear dont just drop into neutral when stopping

Just get rid of the bov all together easiest way around it.

Knocked up some new cooler, intake and dump pipe for the track car in lobster back.

cheers

Yeah sort of mis read what you were saying at first but as I said in my edited post use it from the ecu and try.

I know the rb30s have one in the engine bay blue wire but havent come across it in the other rbs, guess other options take out the ecu from the kickpanel and try from there since thats pretty easy to get to.

Got stuck into making a basic cams spec weld in half cage for my drift car a couple of weeks ago. Basic cage with a harness bar.

Ive always liked this section of the forum and thought might aswell start my own thread on some of the stuff I do in my spare time. Ill start of with this chassis I built for FSAE race car at uni last year, designed by myself in CAD, laser cut most of the tubes with some hand ground and fully tig welded all in 4130 chromo, heat treated and torsion tested. Here are some pics.

Its pretty annoying and difficult to bleed a clutch with 1 person so I would really suggest borrowing someone for 15min. But with two people start at the master bleed valve then move onto the slave.

Non sunroof . Bump

I opted just to get it over and done with and buy a new 1 since had about 3 2nd handers fail was around the 600 mark.

Glad this thread is back going one of my fav projects.

I reckon would be the springs if there still std ones.

Cusco 6 point roll cage suit r33 coupe, mounting plates and bolts included $450 Location SE suburbs Melbourne Pm or call /sms 0422445339

Stick to either a new set of standard ones or spitfires cheaper ones not reliable.

Tungsten is 2.4 only because I havent got my 1.6collar yet for this new tig machine and its grey one. Filler used both 0.9 and 1.6 and shroud 9. Ended getting it to work with both sized fillers without burning it anymore found moving alot faster and making post flow time about 10sec and going over the whole bead done helped clean the weld up. Just trying to figure out some pulse settings so far havnt been able to get any that works well have tried 1 pps , 10-20pps, 30pps and just doesnt seem to feel right.

Just wondering if anyone has any tips for stainless pipe welding with around 1.5mm wall. I keep burning it and getting a greyish weld and have tried different settings, pulses, gas flows, different size filler wire and have no success. Have been using around 35-40amps with the 1.6 filler and 28 amp with even smaller filler.

Nothing wrong with rotas in my opinion good cheap replaceable track rims have smashed ripple strips sideways at over 100 kms many times and they havent cracked.