boostn0199

S14 s15 rack has 10mm more total travel than r33 which gives u 5mm extra each side. Now whether its worth going through trouble for 5mm is up to you but u only gain 2to3 degres more lock with 5mm.

If there both HICAS then yeah it will.

yeah I know reimax are the choice but I havent seen any reimax gear for the rb25 std pump.

Has anyone used the lewis engines chromoly oil pump gears? Seem to be a good price. http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-billett-oil-pump-gears-suit-n1-or-25-26-pumps/

Its very easy 14mm aeroflow rail with short spacers, 1/2 height xspurt injectors, reg, few fittings and hose and done. For around the $1000 mark you will have everything you need to drop straight in. But yeah talk to Scott and he will get you everything you need to drop straight in for good price.

Yeah thats correct.

The takashi 600x300x90 are hood quality and about 150 for it I run one with 350kw on my track car does well under abuse.

Whats your price range? If your willing to go up to the 800-1000 mark you can get a good pwr core or if thats out of your price range there is a cheap chinese brand takashi which is one of the better cheap coolers and work well for there price <$200.

Heres my pics, lol the stock rail is more visible then this one with 1/2 size injectors

I will get you one 2mrow.

You can barely even see the top feed rail when you have the std plenum and cross over pipe it does look stock.

Ive been limiter abusing my stock pump for 7 years still going haha.

Theres nothing wrong with freshning up a motor if you know how, new bearings and rings are good to have but in saying that if the current motor is in good cond with good comp aslong as you have a good tune, change oil every track day theres no reason it wont last I still have my 25 drift car stock bottom end with 4years with no problem but I also have built a spare bottom end with new bearings and rings to have ready to go. Really up to you which way you want to go.

Definately the best option going with that for the injectors only thing you will need to change on the aeroflow rail kit to fit the 1/2 size injectors on stock manifold is smaller spacers (8mm) and Orings for the plugs that go into the stock manifold are to big so you need slightly smaller diameter Oring. Easiest way is talk to Scott on here or look at hes site http://scottyscustoms.com.auhe will sell you the kit with everything ready to bolt in at a good price.

Try to borrow one if you can not cheap buying new cas then finding out doesnt fix your issue.

If your cam gear bolts made contact with the cas then the cas might be ruined they are sensitive and wont take much to ruin them thats another thing to take care of, Ive had a similar issue when I forgot to run washers with no timing cover and exhuast cam bolts were rubbing cas car would run for few min then die timing was off and I had to fully turn cas to even start it.

For the price of nismos you can get conplete kit with everything you need to fit top feeds into r33 its what i just did 1000cc xpurts 40mm length ,rail,aeroflow reg,fittings,hose all off Scott.

Nismo super coppermix twin worth the price.

If you want spend 1k on a mod that will make you go backwards in performance go for it lol all youll gain is a nice engine bay photo and save 2min on undoing couple of hose clamps on the cross over once a year when u do plugs and at the same time youll make the oil filter harder to get to which is the more common change unless your running a relo filter.

What voltage is battery when car is on? Does your battery light come on when u turn ign on? The batt light on dash acts as a excite trigger for alternator to start chraging when car switched on so if light isnt on it wont charge

Also depends what fuel if your running on e85 it becomes less of a issue.

Which PWR intercooler is that Tao, is it the aero2 universal one?

The line that was marked as going to your fuel tank just leave it open, bend or stick a hose on the hard line and route it where ever you want it to sit.

if its not from the back of your rocker covers dripping down then most likely is your rear main

bleed by starting at the master, then there is a nipple on the dampner then finally finish with the slave. But you can easily throw out the dampner and rebend the line to go stright to your slave.