grey pearl

Hi There Monga,I am surprised that even though you report a lot of shudder with the Berry clutch that you still recommended it over the other ones, what price do you put on shudder or was it a typo error and you mean't not a lot of shudder with the Berry clutch.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Hi There dirt garage,I spoke to you a while ago on the phone and have since bought a single plate Jim Berry clutch partly on your comments,although I must confess I am more than a little bit worried about my choice of clamping pressure,4000lb especially in light of the fact that GTR'S have the consistent problem of cracking or breaking clutch pedal brackets.What clamp pressure was your single??Also why did you change to the NPC when you had such success with Jim's clutch?? Can I also ask you did you have to upgrade your pedal bracket to a Nismo one, or did you re-enforce it with weld, or leave it stock,if you have taken one out can you tell us the procedure to avoid damage to the dash etc as I think I'm going to take that pre-caution to avoid being stranded somewhere and having to wreck my re-coed gearbox to get home.Btw Jim and I chose the clamp pressure to hold 300-350kwatw to handle my future upgrades,although He doesn't like to quote kw that a clutch will hold,hope this is some help to the guy you replied to as well.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Hi there ,I agree with duncan that a new or re-coed gearbox should not use redline don't worry about what you've already read ,it is too slipperry to allow your synchros and more importantly your synchro hubs to work properly I found that out from an expert gtr gearbox repairer,I would replace it immediately with a good quality oil such as VMX80 to avoid the same problems you re-coed it for re-occurring. I am re-coeing mine for the same reason and it is a costly exercise so you only want to do it once,ask yourself should you be having synchro problems when they have been re-placed?Also did they replace the thrust bearing in the clutch while the box was out,generally these will make the external noise you describe or you may have a twin plate clutch which are inherrently noisy also but I guess you would have noticed that before the re-co wouldn't you. Just as a matter of interest what did the job cost you as I'm shopping around at the moment and would like a ball-park figure if you don't mind.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Hi there mate, Can you tell me the proceedure for removing and refitting the clutch pedal box and have you seen the replacement item from nismo to assess how much better it is than the original.I am A first class welder so re-welding it wouldn't be a problem,just need to know how it is removed and whether to re-weld it or buy the nismo one.Anyone had a Nismo one break?? Mine hasn't gone yet but I am about to replace the clutch with a Jim Berry 4000lb clamp one and want to be prepared for this problem occurring,if I can get the info I need I will probably get the job done before I get stranded out on the highway somewhere.Cheers Grey Pearl

Info like that is not relevant to what we were discussing,Skyline gearboxes, and tends to lead young guys with skylines up the garden path when we all want to help each other with tried and true ways to stay on the road.I'm curious, what criteria did you use to come up with that assumption?Was the gearbox notchy before you tried that product, worn, or giving you trouble and on whose recommendations did you make the decision to use it. I have a lot of faith in what the Japs design and the oils they recommend,we chose to own the Skyline because of their engineering skills,so to me if these other products were necessary we would have been given a tube in the glovebox don't you think,just my opinion though.Cheers Grey Pearl.

What he mean't was that the fat kid used to kill cereal by the bowl full when he wasn't serving petrol lol ha ha, you guys.Grey PEARL

Unless the thieves come with their own steering wheel lol.Grey Pearl.

Thanks for your reply mate but it seems that no-one knows where to get professional gearbox work done in melbourne, Surely I'm not the only one who has or has had this problem,please help me if you know of anywhere reliable and professional for GTR'S,and any help with my other questions would be much appreciated.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Thanks Guys but yeah I need someone in Melbourne as I live in Ballarat,of course if I had to go to Sydney I would use Award Gearboxes as he knows exactly what to do with GTR'S.Cheers Grey Pearl.

I agree with IONOS, the reason so many people are having problems with notchy gearchanges is that the synchro hubs can't do their job properly as the oil is making the synchro hubs too slippery.I spoke to the main rep for redline oil in australia before changing my gearbox oil and he of course recommends their oil without question and also told me that if the notchiness was still present after using smurfs blood [the blue stuff] change it and use their MT90 instead. I am not going to use it anymore as I have reliable info that it does too good a job in gtr synchro boxes not sure about other vehicles. Unfortunately we on this forum have been led to believe that because it's such a good oil and it is, that it suits all applications, but from what I know it doesn't suit our application.The people on this forum use their vehicles for many different purposes and therefore not all info applies to everyones needs, for instance racing people pull their gear down a lot more frequently than street people either do or want to do,they have their own mechanics, workshops, or do most of the work themselves, so if they make mistakes it's not such a big deal, we street users however want a racing car performance on the street without the maintenance racing teams put into theirs, and our vehicles to stay working forever with the least degree of expense and downtime, and some of us street users abuse our cars beyond belief and wonder why they break and then curse the expense involved when they do. My advise is when it comes to gts or gtr gearboxes to use a conventionally good oil like VMX80 and let the synchro's do their job to allow smooth gearchanging and not look beyond the mark for ultra great things that will supposedly allow our cars to function better than manufactured spec even if we kill them with kindness, like using smurfs blood will do if you choose to use it.Of course many of the gearboxes are already well worn that are spoken about on this forum so changing back to VMX may not produce a better gearchange and therefore people will run back to the lesser of the two evils and call me liar, as there are many stages and symptoms of wear and tear on gearboxes, therefore I qualify my statements by saying that all would be wise to use a good conventional oil with manual gearboxes right from new or re-coed,but if you have a worn or abused gearbox use what works best for you, just don't lock yourself into the smurf blood way of thinking, talk to gearbox repairers like I have they fix the same problems everyday and form their opinions on what they see not what they hear like we do. The real fix for notchy unabused gearboxes in our models is to pull the box out when the clutch needs replacing and pull the gearbox down and either bead blast the synchro hubs to bring back the required friction and use them again depending on wear, as many who know have done, to save the immediate expense of new hubs ,or replace the hubs with new ones if they are too worn ,but in both of these senarios use a good conventional oil like VMX80 and enjoy trouble free non abused changing for years to come.Grey Pearl Out.

Hi There, I am new to posting on this site as registering proved positively frustrating, so I've been on the UK site as it was easier to get on, probably my computer skills lacking,Anyway I'm here now so I have this problem. I have a GTR33 my first one,and everything was going fine until I decided to have a go at the skyline launch, just one, to see how fast it would do 0-100, 6000 and dropped the clutch, unfortunately I over ran the clutch in 1st and 2nd and that was alright but when I got home I had a look under the car and to my dismay found smurf blood all over my once pristine gearbox. So after reading 114 pages of transmission and clutch problems on this forum I have a fair grip on the weaknesses of the drivetrains on these vehicles, and what parts to change etc.I rang Jim Berry and after a few long discussions have bought a replacement clutch suitable for up to approx 350 kw which I hope to achieve in the future. Whilst doing my homework on the subject I ran across a company in Sydney called award gearboxes and after speaking extensively with Terry decided on upgrading my series 1 gearbox internals to the series 3 spec while I'm paying for the box to come out, replace the leaking seal,and upgrade the clutch. The dillemma then was who to take my car to in Melbourne that would do a good job of remove and rebuild box and put it all back together without mistakes and without bending my new clutch fingers as often happens.I have looked everywhere on this site and have either missed, or can't find any lists of recommended workshops that could do all of this in house reliably and order all of the necessary parts for the box internal upgrade. More than that I would like any supported recommendations from you people who know of such a place from your experiences to get me out of this headache,if you can't tell me openly on the site because of policy you can PM me,It would be much appreciated as my car hasn't moved out of the garage since the oil discovery as I don't want my flywheel getting any more oil than necessary on it as I wish to re-use it. I would also like to share some reliable info I have gleaned about synchro's in gtr boxes that there seems to be confusion over on the postings I've seen on this forum. The redline shockproof oil only masks the notchiness in these gearboxes for a short time in most cases and not at all in others as in my case,the reason is that the redline oil is actually too effective and slippery to allow the sychro hubs to slow down The baulk ring or synchro to the right meshing speed for fast smooth changes, a certain amount of friction is required to achieve this so a more conventional oil like VMX80 allows this to happen properly whereas the ultra slippery smurf's blood doesn't. Solution Either pull the box down and bead blast the sychro hubs to create the right amount of friction and use them again and use VMX80 or replace the hubs with new ones and use the more conventional oil to avoid the problem re-occurring prematurely again.Of course no gearbox lasts forever especially abused ones but just thought I would share that with those confused by the conflicting messages about oils and notchy gearchanges, any disagreement with this info can be overcome by speaking with Terry 0296380822. I am expecting possible problems down the track if I ever get this work done, of my pedal box breaking from the 4000lb clamp pressure of the new clutch and wonder how to remove the existing pedal box to replace it if it breaks with a nismo one, are the Nismo ones bullet proof or do most of you just re-weld the stock one and have success with that.I'm not sure from what I've read as to whether the stock one suffers from not enough weld or the material being too thin, any info greatly appreciated.Also have any of you fixed them in the car without removal and what is the proceedure for getting them out??Cheers hope you can help me with all this and I hope to keep my posts shorter in future please forgive me this time as I have been struggling with these questions for some time and couldn't get to talk to you because of my registering problems.Grey Pearl out