Bitsushiti

Hi fellas, I'm currently shopping around for new a set of 18" wheels for my '96 R33 S2 GTS25T. I've been leaning towards a set of Lenso D1Rs. I currently have +30mm front guards, my rear arches have been rolled professionally and they also appear to have been slightly pulled (by 5-10mm or so) in comparison to standard S2s. I'm currently running Tein SS adjustable coilovers and have a set of adjustable rear camber arms stored in the shed on standby. While hunting around on google images for 33 GTS25Ts rolling on D1R's, one particular set of pics stood out from the rest. The owner of the car in the pics below (from NZ) claims he's running 18x9.0 with -4 offset all round. Original thread that pics are from can be found here: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193124 I thought I'd run this past you guys first before making any decisions and parting with any cash... Considering my 33 is currently a daily driver, do you think -4 offset would be ok? or would I be better off going for more conservative/positive offsets to avoid headaches? Any thoughts/suggestions/advice etc would be highly valued & appreciated. Cheers!

I'd say nope, not defectable. When my 33 first went over the pits 5 years ago when I didn't know any different, first thing they spotted was my atmo BOV. Got told to block it off, so I replaced it with a blanking plug and they gave the all clear.

If you want to check your CAS (this is for CAS with mitsubishi logo): • Pull the fuel pump fuse out • Start engine over until it dies • Unplug the CAS • Have your handy modified spark plug lead and timing gun ready • Remove the three bolts and carefully slide the CAS out. Try spinning the shaft on the back. It should spin smoothly & freely, if it's hard to spin and/or has a grimey/scratchy feel to it (metal shavings), it's likely cactus. Optional: You can try cleaning it by removing the three screws on the back, and the two screws on the metal plate that goes around the plug. Once the three base screws are out and the metal plate is removed from around the plug, give the shaft a couple of gentle taps with the rubber handle of a screwdriver and the case will come apart. You do not want to bend the disc inside so be careful. Don't bother removing the two screws on the black plastic thing inside too, there's three little delicate pins inside it that seem like they don't want to let go. If the disc inside is ok and not bent, hose the inside of the CAS out with mass airflow sensor cleaner and reassemble. • Plug the CAS back in again, turn your key to ignition on and slowly spin the shaft by hand. You should hear your injectors clicking. If not, check the plug, if still no go, CAS is buggered. • Check the seal/gasket between the CAS and the engine, make sure it's still good, put a dob of grease in the end of the CAS shaft, align the half-moon thingy to match the half moon position on your cam, carefully slide it back in and do up the three bolts to finger-tight. Put fuel pump fuse back in again. Consult FSM on re-setting timing to 15 degrees BTDC, then tighten the the three bolts up (don't over-do it). If any of this advice is wrong I happily stand to be corrected... I did mine recently using the above method and it still works perfectly Cheers

Check those hose clamps, joiners, hoses and vac lines on all intake, cooler piping, boost controller, BOV, brake booster, rocker cover breather hoses, PCV system etc again. Check all of them. Anything with a bendy black thing attached to a solid something and a silver/gold clampy thing holding it there. If you have a mechanical boost gauge, even check the line going into the back of that and the point where it goes through the firewall too. I can't stress the importance of this enough... it could save you from hours of pulling your hair out and spending hundreds of dollars chasing ghosts. I once had a wormdrive clamp that was an absolute bitch to get to and would only play up once engine warmed up to operating temp, eg. intermittent lean misfire and rough idle, rough performance at low rpm. Even with a vac/boost leak tester I made with 18psi pressure applied it wasn't obvious. It drove me insane for about 2 months in which time I literally tore my whole engine bay apart, spent hundreds and replaced heaps of shit that didn't need doing. I ended up feeling pretty stupid when I discovered a single twist of a screw on a $3 hose clamp was all that was needed to solve my problem. On the upside I learned a ton about how an RB ticks and there's heaps of shit that won't need attention for a long time... lol. IAC / AAC valve - likely to have 15+ years of junk in it. Refer to this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/ Throttle body - it wouldn't hurt to give the TB & butterfly a good clean too (while you've got the carby cleaner handy from your IAC/AAC valve cleaning session ). Mass Airflow Sensor (AFM) - remove and give it a good clean. Don't use carby cleaner on this. Use dedicated mass airflow sensor cleaner instead, it's not a solvent. O2 sensor - if your ECU is relying on it (standard ECU does afaik), remove and clean, if really shitty, replace it. If o2 feedback isn't required eg. aftermarket ECU tune, ignore this. Fuel Filter - it'll cost ya about $10 for a new one. Ryco Z200 fits like a glove and is a bit longer which is handy if you need to trim a bit of fuel hose back to get the old one off. If it hasn't been replaced for a long time I'd get onto it, I've seen some horrific shit come out of filters that have been left unchanged for 1+ years. In uncommon/rare event - Knock sensor/s - if your ecu can't get a reading from them, it'll richen your map up and retard the timing. Inspect 'em. Hope this helps Cheers

not sure if removing it might cause problems. It may cause dramas with your ABS and ATESSA system (error code 13). I'd try relocating it if anything...

Gravity Sensor / G-sensor

Suspect throttle position sensor (TPS)? You can check TPS voltage with your PFC commander under ETC -> Sensor check (with ignition on - don't need to start engine) Voltage should be 0.5v throttle closed, 4.5v throttle open.

I'd check to see if the amp still has a solid earth and that it hasn't come loose from vibration and do the same for the fuse and all connections on the power line, then try setting all gain settings on the amp back to 0 and give it another go. If this fails or gain is already set to 0, pull the amp out, remove the cover & inspect the PCB and around the terminals for burnt mosfets/capacitors etc. If you can't remove the cover, try giving the amp a light shake to listen for loose rattly bits and also use your nose and have a sniff around, capacitors have a really distinctive smell when they get fried. If there's nothing visibly wrong with the PCB, take it to a TV sparky to get them to check over it (if it's worth salvaging), or... use this as an excuse to upgrade

Hi Azza, have a read over this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347079-series-2-engine-in-a-series-1-r33-gtst/ Cheers

I had another look around, apparently you can reset to factory defaults by going to the main menu, selecting 'etc' followed by 'init' or 'initialise'. Note this is for the first SAFC, not sure if same applies for SAFC2...

Have you tried this? Edit: Sorry - just re-read and realised you've checked the manual with no success

I'm thinking about grabbing a set of Axis Super Hiros for my 33. Are 19"s too big?

I have attached a pic of where the coolant bleed bolt is

Intermittent hesitation when rolling on the throttle, jerks around and surges unexpectedly? Sounds AFM related. The solder from the afm plug to the pcb inside it lets go after a while (especially after 13+ years of heating/cooling/vibration) and can lose connection when hitting bumps etc. Eg. fine one minute, pain in the ass the next. I had a very similar problem a while ago and followed this tutorial which completely cured it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/ applies to RB25 AFM as well) Even if the plug looks fine, solder it anyway while you've got it opened up. Cheers

No worries, thanks man. Hadn't heard of Mazworks until now but thanks for the heads-up. Is Martin the fella who owns the silver series 1 (lowered, 19"s, bodykit/no wing)? At this stage I've been looking at Morpowa, Boostworx, Fours'n'More and Willall. Heard good things about all of them so far, especially Brenton at Fours'n'More who has an excellent reputation over on the Supra forums. Another thing I've been wondering about is having it tuned at sea level and how much impact it would have on the tune by bringing it 1,775 feet above back to Alice. It'd be cool if it can be compensated for via correction factor etc. How's your 180sx going anyways Kurt? Haven't seen it around for ages now

Alice is literally dead eh. Ahwell nevermind, all good. I'll get it sorted one way or another Cheers

Hi fellas, I know it's pretty quiet in here and apologies in advance for the long-ish post I'm Fred, I bought Lee's R33 (SLY33) off him a couple of years ago. I'm a bit embarassed that it's taken me this long to get around to doing this but I had other financial commitments I had to sort out before I could afford to start buying bits for the car. I'm all in the clear nowadays and on a much better wage (full-qualified) so I've finally been able to get some coin together. Today my turbo got back from its holiday to see Stao at Hypergear for highflowing, and now I'm in the process of organising an EBC, bigger injectors and Z32 AFM to support. I also have a Autometer/Bosch Wideband O2 kit and a Datalogit so I can finally use Matt Fedda's old Apexi PowerFC (from "DRIFTN") that Lee gave me when I originally bought the car. The stock ECU really needed to go as it was running rich as hell and was generally driving me nuts. At this stage I've installed the PFC and have used the datalogit to initialise and tweak the base map so it's safe on stock boost with no knock values over 20. It's already a major improvement over the stock ECU with better fuel economy, snappier in the lower rpms, no more black soot being plastered all over the rear bumper and no more flat spots. Once I get the new highflow, injectors and Z32 installed I'll chasing a proper tune. Just wondering if there's any possibility of getting a dyno or road tune done here in Alice? I haven't asked around much yet, but does anyone know if Carmelo would be able to help me out? or would I be better off looking at road tripping it to a dyno down south or maybe try organizing something with Anthony (Guilt-Toy) and his remote tuning service? Cheers

Ah no worries, thanks for confirming Hugh. I wasn't sure if it was going to be as simple as splicing a wire on the ecu harness. Instead of setting up a switch for it, I reckon I'll just ground that wire instead and use the data out from the WB gauge to my PFC datalogit for checking peak AFRs. Thanks again

Hi guys, I'm currently halfway through installing an Autometer (4378) Pro Lite Wideband O2 gauge in my Series 2 R33 GTST. So far so good, I've got the gauge and o2 sensor installed but I'm a bit hesitant on continuing with the wiring for the peak/recall & warning function, which reads from the wide open throttle switch signal. The instructions state: "WOT Peak/Recall mode provides you with a quick and easy way to find out exactly how "lean" your engine got during the last pull, run, or race. This value is recorded when the Brown wire in the instrument harness is connected to a good engine ground via a normally open, momentarily closed wide open throttle switch. This allows peak readings to be sampled only during wide open throttle conditions. If the Air/Fuel monitor gauge will not be used with a wide open throttle switch, connect the brown wire permanently to a good engine ground to continuously monitor for peak conditions." Can anyone confirm which wire this is on the ECU harness? I've had a look at an RB25 ECU pinout and there's two TPS wires, which are #38 = "Throttle Position Sensor Sense", and #48 = "Throttle Position Sensor", but I'm not confident in which one would be the WOT switch wire. If anyone could point me in the right direction it'd be much appreciated Cheers & thanks

Are you in Darwin Scotty? According to the Dyno Dynamics website, there's a few options listed for NT. Can't say whether they're any good or not though (I'm in Alice Springs), or how up to date the contact info is... ‎Hi-Tech Tuning 7 Marlow Road Berrimah NT 0828 Ph: (08) 8984 4538 [email protected] JSM Unit 1/ 894 Stuart Highway Pinelands, NT 0829 Ph: (08) 8932 8100 Fax: (08) 8932 8605 [email protected] www.jsmperformance.com.au Pecky's Fuel & Car Repairs 1 Swan Crescent Winnellie, NT 0820 Ph: (08) 8947 0177 Fax: (08) 8947 3199 [email protected] Premier Fuel Injection 27 Winnellie Road Winnellie, NT 0820 Ph: (08) 8984 3953 Fax: (08) 8947 0462 [email protected] www.pfis.com.au

Thanks Stao, I'll hit you up for a quote shortly for the VG30 to be hiflowed

Sorry mate I can't remember the engine light coming on... if it did, I'd assume it would only do it as the AFM temporarily loses its connection. On top of that I was probably too busy trying to stay in my seat every time it hesitated to notice! My consult port always returned fault code 55 (no malfunction) as well, mystifying autosparkies and mechanics that were trying to diagnose it. Considering that the AFM has been exposed to vibration and constant expansion/contraction from heat for the better part of 13+ years, I'd re-solder the plug anyway. Completely cured my problem

I'll be looking at getting a hypergear hiflow done soon (as I'm only going to be chasing around ~230rwkw) and will have two turbos available: a stock 45V1 VG30 ball bearing turbo, and a stock 45V4 on my 1996 series 2 RB25DET Which one would be better suited for hiflowing with responsiveness being the priority?

Vekra & Drey, are you fellas using the stock AFM? It definitely sounds like the solder joining the AFM plug to the PCB is dry & cracked. I had the exact same problem... Hitting bumps etc will briefly give you a connection to the plug and the car will run fine, but another bump or two later it will break the connection again, causing intermittent hesitation (especially just as you're about to roll on to boost), surging and shit fuel economy. It always seems behave itself in the presence of mechanics too If you have a soldering iron handy, fixing it costs nothing and is a very basic 15 minute job... give this DIY repair tutorial a try: http://www.skylinesa...your-rb26-afms/

Yep, cooler pipe on intake side had popped out completely. Cheers mate, I appreciate it. Now commencing: feeling like a dickhead