fletch rb30

How much is it pushing down on the PS belt? What if you slot the top hole in the mounting bracket so it can rotate toward the PS pump and raise the idler enough to get it off the AC belt. In my experience with some mates drift cars, the belt gets flicked off on the sudden decrease in crank pulley speed on the limiter or downshift in a dog box. We came up with a good fix for the 2J using some Mazda timing belt idler that was just resting on the belt and stopped the belt coming off on some cars that were chronic for it.

In a previous incarnation I ran it round the back and into the thermostat inlet teed into the heater return. It worked fine, but when I turned it off, I could hear it boiling and slugging etc. I figured it would be good to try and get it towards the radiator and let convection cool it until it was the dame temp as everything else. I thought rb26 had a nipple on the top hose fitting where both the turbo water returns went. I have seen people delete that with a rd28 outlet and run the turbo outlet straight to the radiator top tank.

I was also thinking hard about it as there is no pressure differential under the head gasket. I ran a hard line across the front of the block and into a 90deg in the bottom of the manifold. I wanted to go straight into the manifold where the elbow to the radiator outlet is, but I couldn't make anything that that was easily removable with the timing belt covers on. I'm not 100% happy with the turbo end so I'll redo it before the front goes on.

I have played this game too. On the GTR firewall there is a recess to make a bit more room for the booster in the engine bay. The GTS4/GTST doesnt have this, but it does have a spacer bracket on the inside of the firewall to space the pedal out. It looks to be about the thickness of the GTR recess so you could be in luck and it should just bolt in. The R33 pedal has the spacer attached to the pedal for the non-GTR models I bought a set of pedals from yahoo japan as i couldnt find what i needed locally and they are NLA new.

Great info. Dead right about the centre bearing being backwards. I put mine on wrong thinking the F in the rubber molding meant 'front' but it actually means back... You can also replace the boot. I bought a GKN high speed boot like this: https://en.oreca-store.com/gkn-cv-joint-boot-for-cv-joint-a-107-mm.html or https://www.race-parts.com/gkn-108mm-od-size-15-cv-tripode-joint-fast-boot I found my cv's were in good condition and i just washed them out and re-greased them with new boots.

Are you returning your turbo coolant to that fitting below the head gasket? Would that not result in no flow through the turbo as you are returning the water to the same pressure as the supply - both below the head gasket? I thought the return needed to be above the head gasket where there was lower pressure to allow it to flow. Not knocking your setup, just curious as im redoing all the plumbing on mine and checking out everybody else's setup. Also, +1 for Lexus over eurotrash

I don't think the location of the dot on the neo actuator matters. It's just to differentiate between DET (red 20degrees) and DE (green 30 degrees)

Maybe pull the inlet cam pulley off and check the bolts are tight, the outer pulley might have slipped on the inner, retarding the inlet cam. VCT still works, but timing up the shit

No rwd experience sorry. Just a few people I know with fwd nissans. Always worked out better in the long run to get a proper lsd head. This was maybe 2003-2006ish

Looks the same as the old 'Phantom Grip' units from early 00's I know a few jokers who put them in fwd's and mostly resulted in lots of wear and the lsd effect wore off pretty quickly

If you can get some 4 pot calipers and 5 stud rotors you can drill the rotors to 4 stud. 1 of the stud holes lines up, so you make a mandrel that locates the ventre bore of both rotors, and one of the stud holes and drill the other 3. Would be cheaper than changing hubs and also wheels to 5 stud

If he said you only need 1, you should be OK. But officially it's 2 on a 2 piece driveshaft. There was some talk they were going to relax the rule a bit. Maybe it's starting to happen. I certed my 30 conversion before the hoop rules came in, but want to do brakes which will trigger a re-cert. I'm hoping to squeak through

Yes that's a neo head. They all have the oil drain un-drilled

Yes i aware of that. I had pulled it out of the case to try and see why the bottom friction was not engaging on the drum. You can see in the photos that its miles off. I was asking to see if anybody had the same issue as it was the same on the 32 and 33 drum i had. I pulled it completely apart and found the clips that hold the thrust had fallen out and were stopping the inner hub from going all the way to the bottom of the basket. There was no mention of this in the manual that i could find. I reassembled it and put a cable tie at the other end to keep the inner hub hard against the half washer clips until the front cover is installed. If it is pulled forward, the outer ring call fall off the half washers and stop the hub going all the way in

Thanks to the great information above, i have got stuck into my own transfer case upgrade. I am using an R32 case. Using the R32 5mm rear plate, i notice the first friction plate will not reach the internal splines. If i run the plate anyway as a spacer and then chuck in a steel and another friction, the 2nd friction is just off the end of the splines. Has anybody had any issues with this? I worry that when the 4wd is engaged it will not line up with the splines and will strip the teeth off the friction. Backing plate installed 1st friction Any ideas? Thanks