fletch rb30

How much is it pushing down on the PS belt? What if you slot the top hole in the mounting bracket so it can rotate toward the PS pump and raise the idler enough to get it off the AC belt. In my experience with some mates drift cars, the belt gets flicked off on the sudden decrease in crank pulley speed on the limiter or downshift in a dog box. We came up with a good fix for the 2J using some Mazda timing belt idler that was just resting on the belt and stopped the belt coming off on some cars that were chronic for it.

In a previous incarnation I ran it round the back and into the thermostat inlet teed into the heater return. It worked fine, but when I turned it off, I could hear it boiling and slugging etc. I figured it would be good to try and get it towards the radiator and let convection cool it until it was the dame temp as everything else. I thought rb26 had a nipple on the top hose fitting where both the turbo water returns went. I have seen people delete that with a rd28 outlet and run the turbo outlet straight to the radiator top tank.

I was also thinking hard about it as there is no pressure differential under the head gasket. I ran a hard line across the front of the block and into a 90deg in the bottom of the manifold. I wanted to go straight into the manifold where the elbow to the radiator outlet is, but I couldn't make anything that that was easily removable with the timing belt covers on. I'm not 100% happy with the turbo end so I'll redo it before the front goes on.

I have played this game too. On the GTR firewall there is a recess to make a bit more room for the booster in the engine bay. The GTS4/GTST doesnt have this, but it does have a spacer bracket on the inside of the firewall to space the pedal out. It looks to be about the thickness of the GTR recess so you could be in luck and it should just bolt in. The R33 pedal has the spacer attached to the pedal for the non-GTR models I bought a set of pedals from yahoo japan as i couldnt find what i needed locally and they are NLA new.

Great info. Dead right about the centre bearing being backwards. I put mine on wrong thinking the F in the rubber molding meant 'front' but it actually means back... You can also replace the boot. I bought a GKN high speed boot like this: https://en.oreca-store.com/gkn-cv-joint-boot-for-cv-joint-a-107-mm.html or https://www.race-parts.com/gkn-108mm-od-size-15-cv-tripode-joint-fast-boot I found my cv's were in good condition and i just washed them out and re-greased them with new boots.

Are you returning your turbo coolant to that fitting below the head gasket? Would that not result in no flow through the turbo as you are returning the water to the same pressure as the supply - both below the head gasket? I thought the return needed to be above the head gasket where there was lower pressure to allow it to flow. Not knocking your setup, just curious as im redoing all the plumbing on mine and checking out everybody else's setup. Also, +1 for Lexus over eurotrash

I don't think the location of the dot on the neo actuator matters. It's just to differentiate between DET (red 20degrees) and DE (green 30 degrees)

Maybe pull the inlet cam pulley off and check the bolts are tight, the outer pulley might have slipped on the inner, retarding the inlet cam. VCT still works, but timing up the shit

No rwd experience sorry. Just a few people I know with fwd nissans. Always worked out better in the long run to get a proper lsd head. This was maybe 2003-2006ish

Looks the same as the old 'Phantom Grip' units from early 00's I know a few jokers who put them in fwd's and mostly resulted in lots of wear and the lsd effect wore off pretty quickly

If you can get some 4 pot calipers and 5 stud rotors you can drill the rotors to 4 stud. 1 of the stud holes lines up, so you make a mandrel that locates the ventre bore of both rotors, and one of the stud holes and drill the other 3. Would be cheaper than changing hubs and also wheels to 5 stud

If he said you only need 1, you should be OK. But officially it's 2 on a 2 piece driveshaft. There was some talk they were going to relax the rule a bit. Maybe it's starting to happen. I certed my 30 conversion before the hoop rules came in, but want to do brakes which will trigger a re-cert. I'm hoping to squeak through

Yes that's a neo head. They all have the oil drain un-drilled

Yes i aware of that. I had pulled it out of the case to try and see why the bottom friction was not engaging on the drum. You can see in the photos that its miles off. I was asking to see if anybody had the same issue as it was the same on the 32 and 33 drum i had. I pulled it completely apart and found the clips that hold the thrust had fallen out and were stopping the inner hub from going all the way to the bottom of the basket. There was no mention of this in the manual that i could find. I reassembled it and put a cable tie at the other end to keep the inner hub hard against the half washer clips until the front cover is installed. If it is pulled forward, the outer ring call fall off the half washers and stop the hub going all the way in

Thanks to the great information above, i have got stuck into my own transfer case upgrade. I am using an R32 case. Using the R32 5mm rear plate, i notice the first friction plate will not reach the internal splines. If i run the plate anyway as a spacer and then chuck in a steel and another friction, the 2nd friction is just off the end of the splines. Has anybody had any issues with this? I worry that when the 4wd is engaged it will not line up with the splines and will strip the teeth off the friction. Backing plate installed 1st friction Any ideas? Thanks

the front half of the box is the same length apart from the input shaft which you can machine the end of it back a bit to fit. The rear half is shorter. If your going to run one in a new conversion, you should strip the box and do the bearings and also machine the input shaft. Then reassemble with a gtr or rb25det bellhousing. Your going to have to make a diveshaft anyway, so make it longer to suit the d22 box. You cant use a RB input shaft because the tooth count is different. You can buy a broken 25det or 26 box cheap for the bellhousing only. If you can get a big box with a blown 3rd gear for cheap, and a diesel box, you can make 1 out of 2 that will fit inside the RB case. I have done a few for mates. Most recent one is behind a 330rwkw rb25det neo. going well so far

33 and 34 vct activation is different. On 33 heads, the oil constantly feeds the front journal to lubricate it. The oil leaves the journal via the vct solenoid into the head. When the vct engages the solenoid blocks the drain which pressurises the pulley and advances the cam. The semi constant oil drain from the front journal is the reason for the oil drain in the front of the 33 vct heads. If you look at the head and the cam you can see the oil holes are in line and it lines up with the groove in the cam which is ported to the cam pulley On the 34 neo head, the front journal lubrication comes from the same main gallery as the rest of the cam bearings. The vvt solenoid has its own feed which is closed when the vvt is off. when it turns on, it feeds pressure to the grove in the cam which activates the vvt pulley. When it turns off, it shuts the oil feed from the block, and vents the oil pressure in the pulley to the head. If you look at the front cam journal you will see the same 2 holes as the 33 head, except they are not in line, and the grove in the neo cam lines up with the oil hole from the solenoid only. The advantages of the 34 system are the cam journal is always fed with pressurised oil like the rest of the journals, and the vvt only discharges a small amount of oil into the head when the vvt switches off, instead of the constant loss of the 33 system. This also explains why a few people here and there who just block off the vvt on their 33 head and run an rb20det or similar cam, seize the cam as there is no dedicated lubrication to the front journal. sorry no photos on hand to show what i mean, and couldnt find them on google

which spring do you need to replace? if its just the spring/s you can do it in the car. you might need a couple of different shape picks to get the old springs out

did you google the part number on the pistons? i get 11.3cc dish WISECO 6577M87 PRO TRU PISTONS $132.22 Pro Tru Pistons; Sport Compact Series; Replacement/Individual Piston; Recommended RingSet: 8700XX; Rings & Pins Included Part Number: 6577M87 SPECS: Comp Ratio: 7.0:1 Rod: 152.5 Bore: 87mm Comp Height: 32 Dome Volume: -11.3 Stroke: 85 Gram Weight: 384

there is some kind of frontal impact law that they bought in on imports. i think it has to be post 1996, or 25 years old plus. also, if you can prove you have owned the car for a year in oz, you dont have to pay import duties. couple of grand drive on drive off from brisbane to auckland. then a customs inspection, can be cheap but depends on how much they feel like ripping you. just make sure its as clean as possible, dirt under the guards/ bugs etc. then a roadworthy inspection around 350-400 nzd plus you have to pay the first years rego then of about 220nzd, and your on the road. Being modified you will most likely have to get a low volume cert which is around 550 i think. yours is a common conversion here so should go straight through.

I have read the last few pages out of curiosity and thought i would throw my 5c into the ring First, the reason the neo rb25 does not have the external drain from the front of the head is the way the vct system was changed from r33 to r34. On the r33 vct head there is 2 holes in the front cam journal. The vct solenoid is in the open position when de-energised. The oil pressure from the front(vct) oil feed is constantly feeding the front cam journal to lubricate it, and it drains out the other hole, via the vct solenoid and into the head. When the vct solenoid is activated, the oil cannot drain, the cam pulley is pressurised and advances. The front oil drain is designed to allow this extra oil to drain to the block when the vct is not activated. This is not an ideal system for a drain, but it is probably the easiest system for nissan to manufacture without significantly changing the block and head casting for an extra oil drain at the front. This is shown by the internal vct feed mod threads in the rb30det forum, you modify the plug in the end of the gallery to allow the inlet oil gallery to feed the front cam journal/vct The NEO vct system also has 2 oil holes in the front cam journal, but placed differently. I could not find the pics of google images to show this sorry. The small hole feeds the front cam bearing constantly and is fed from the oil gallery in the head that feeds the lifters and other inlet cam bearings. The vct oil feed runs directly to the solenoid instead of the journal first and the solenoid OPENS when energised and pressurises the cam pulley to advance the cam. When de-energised, the pressure in the cam gear flows back through the solenoid and into the head. This way, only the small volume of oil in the cam pulley is discharged into the head. Clear as mud? As for the other controversial topic... On a few race cars i muck about with we often dont have any breathers on the head at all! We vent the lower part of the block and block all the holes in the head. That way oil in the head can only go down. As it has been said often, the RB problems are caused by the blow-by trying to escape the sump. The only way for this to happen is up through the oil drain holes in the block and head and out the rocker covers. This is whats causing the oil to pool in the head and blow out the breathers. The stock setup is good for stock driving. Early next year to plan to drag my rb25/30 out of storage and rebuild the engine. It was thrown together and blows oil everywhere when driven hard. I fixed it by taking the dipstick out and keeping it in the glovebox. Like kiwiRS4t and others, i will run a few big lines to the inlet cam cover, make some kind of internal baffles (mines copy) and run the front vents to some kind of small filtered catch can. I dont think it needs to be complex. And also drill out the internal head drains. Plus maybe run 2x oil restrictors instead of blocking 1 incase a bit of shit blocks the restrictor and kills the cam bearings Cheers

some guys on the gtr uk forums have built gtrs and converted the front hubs to a regular strut. would this work?

haha awesome!

A good trick to see if you have too much pressure in your sump not allowing the oil to drain from the head is to pull the dip stick out completley when you have it on the dyno. OR, chuck one of those mini filters on the dip dtick tube and do a few laps of the track and check your catch can.

get some non abs brakes lines for the front and modify the rear lines to go to the master cylinder, unplug the abs unit, remove the abs light from the dash and your done. sorry cant help with part numbers you can just get some hard lines from the non abs r32.