fletch rb30

i hammered in the rear restrictor about 20mm then filled it to the top of the block with that liquid metal stuff you mix together with your fingers. 1.5 restrictor at the front and i brazed up the vct feed and drilled it to 1.5mm n1 pump. I had problems on the dyno with oil blowing out the rocker breathers and i figured i had a bit of blowby and the oil could not drain back so i just pulled out the dipstick and have had no problems!

I saw this a while ago on gtr.uk. You can get the 4 pot willwoods machined to fit these pins giving you a dual purpose caliper.

i thik you can buy these pretty cheap http://images.marketplaceadvisor.channeladvisor.com/hi/78/78360/FLANGE-WASTEGATE_1.jpg

There was a guy in NZ running a rwd wrx and he fitted a s14/15 diff and axles and machined the wrx hubs a little to accept the nissan cv joint. no problems after that I dont know how hard it was to fit the diff, but he was a bit of a butcher from memory so it cant have been that hard

give Dick a call at hytech engine reconditioners in manukau. only an hour away from you. they have done all the heads for me and my friends rb30's. dont remember what it cost, but it was a reasonable price and he has done plenty of them the r33 head does, just not the r32

r33 25de and det heads are the same. the engine builder we use uses an aluminium mig welder and fills in the front water port a bit and fills in the oil feed then gives the head a skim. Its not very expensive. By doing that you can fit the head to any unmodified rb30 block and use any rb30, rb26 or r32 rb25 gasket

look up toyota or mitsubishi l300 van engine mounts. a mate used them and they looked to be around 25mm. i dont remember what model they were from. it was an early 90's model from the wreckers

thats probably why one of my bolts does not line up. The gtr firewall is recessed in a bit to fit the booster and not on the gts4.

you can take the rubber boot off the brake pedal, cut the pedal down smaller and put the manual brake rubber on. Also you dont need to change the ecu, you can run the manual one and link out the inhibitor in the relay/fuse box on the drivers side of the engine bay. the driveshafts are the same for auto and manual and 2dr/4dr on the 4wd's if you get a gtr box and you want rwd, you could take the reont half shafts and front driveshaft out and unplug the awd computer my gts4 was converted to manual before i got it. i suspect they have used a non gts4/gtr clutch pedal as the bracket does not fit well(works perfectly, just has the holes slotted to fit). i think its from a manual r33 gts/gtst. so you could try that.

i think tps is 0.5-5v. awd ecu needs 0.5-3.5v for tps signal. (possibly 0-3.5v, i forget) You need to find somebody than can make you a circuit to read the tps voltage and output the lower voltage signal to the awd ecu. It can be done with a simple op-amp circuit with 0.7 gain.

+1 what he said! I did exactly the same to a fwd sr20. used u13 sr20det ecu/loom/turbo/front mount etc. i got a friend to hold the air duster gun on one of the rocker cover vents to pressurise the motor and drilled the oil return and tapped to 1/2 bsp. the air blew the filings out no sweat. 7psi and it was great. guy i sold it to was running 12psi for months before it cracked a piston

one of the plugs is a variable resistance sensor and the other one is just a throttle closed switch

this is my impression- there is a solenoid on the rack that makes the steering lighter when its got power. This solenoid is on at low speed to make steering easy when parking etc, and as soon as you get some speed on, it turns off to make it stiffer. I think this is the case as i have the solenoid on the rack disconnected (small grinder incident..) and my steering is a bit heavy (not enough to bother me, but others notice it) at low speed. Your ecu might think its always at low speed and give you light steering all the time. You could always disconnect the solenoid to make it stiffer. I think its a small plug down by the starter.

it could be moving side to side. check under the boots to see it it has been jammed up, or welded

how fast do you want to spend? Easiest way would probably be to weld in a 4wd front subframe, gtr or gts4. And the front upright knuckle thing, mod the tunnel to fit the transfer box. You could probably keep the live rear axle if you could find the same ratio as the front diff you use. Do a search on google for full race motorsports, they make turbo manifolds, The owner Geoff, has done a s14 with gtr running gear. I believe it was just a bit of cutting and welding, but the s14 is closer to the r32/33/34 chassis than the r31

pull the rubber boots back from the rack and see if it is jammed up. I found 2 big washers at work, maybe 4mm thick, and 50-35mm diameter, and drilled (from memory) a 16mm hole in it. I took each rack end out and put the washer under it to jam the rack solid. Was cheaper than a lock bar, but heavier. Ill change it when i get round to it

yea, spend a few extra dollars on a decent engine stand. Those 3 wheel buggers are a bit dodgy if you want to move the motor.

i never bothered. running the 4wd sump. I know a few guys that have added the awd scraper to the rb30 girdle. IMO it does not matter that much unless you are revving it pretty high

I have had a look at the neo head and it has a bearing feed running off the head gallery and a seperate feed just for the vvt. You wont be able to pull the plug out and drill it like the r33 head. Im appears the vvt solenoid blocks the oil pressure when the vvt is off and when engaged, it pressurises the vvt solenoid. when disengaged the oil pressure bleeds back through the solenoid instead of the constant loss

hi Josh, are you in western or american samoa? I have spent a fair bit of time working in american samoa and its full of v8s!! I never saw any rb30 cars in either place so i assume you are going to get one from nz?? If you do, get a mate in auckland to pick up standard rings, bearings, water pump, rb26 head gasket from segedins auto parts by the airport http://www.staparts.co.nz/ probly the cheapest place in town for stock stuff. Should be good for at least 400hp at the wheels. including myself, i know of 4 cars in nz making that power on stock rebuilt bottom end. Do you know an aluminium welder? if not, it may be cheaper to get buy a bare head at the same time in nz and get it welded and overhauled and sent over with the block. You just need a stock rb30e bottom end. I can reccommend hytech engines in manukau for the machining and welding of the block and head. http://www.hytechengines.co.nz/ he has done all of my friends rb30's for a reasonable price and no problems so far.

what about one of those sard type tanks which have the pumps inside the surge tank? http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/att...08092009972.jpg http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/att...08092009973.jpg

Bit of info for ya, A mate got his rb30/25 tuned by a well know tuner/drifter in nz and he set the vct to operate between 1300 - 4300 AND only with 30% throttle or higher His words were 'at light throttle you will get better economy and emissions and with some throttle the cam will advance and make some more torque to accelerate' If you can make it trigger off rpm and tps it could be more versatile Edit - possibly 20% throttle. I forget

the 33 inlet manifold will fit the 34 turbo head only. non turbo has smaller ports

It will be fine. Use the ecu wire from the old fuel pump relay for your new relay, and ground the earth wire from the pump to a good ground, or the battery ground

I compared a set of r33 25de and det springs and they were identical height and spring rate