fletch rb30

Nice work, bit of a tight fit ay! Should go well. Helped a mate fit rb25/30 into a 318 a few years ago. It was right hand drive so he only had to move the brake booster and he could drop the exhaust down under the firewall. Running r32 radiator, about 5mm clearance!

its been working ok so far, why change it? Most people seem to tee them together

there is a company called econobelt. they will make you any belt you need. the more you buy the cheaper they are, i think they are around $30 usd for 1 if you buy 3 of them

Whats it going into, i know it wont fit an e30 without cutting the tunnel out to fit the transfer case and pumping the front of the tunnel with a hydraulic ram to fit the body of the gearbox. Got a mate with a rb30det and jatco automatic in an e30. We had to pump the tunnel a fair bit. I have seen a rb20det and 20det box fit an e30 with no mods to the tunnel. Also, the crank pulley will be touching the radiator and the firewall. You will need to turn the front belt pulley off on a lathe

Just the driveshaft will do the job. It would be better to knock out the front half shafts and diff at the same time, but it wont matter if you dont.

yea, just take the line out of the back of the transfer case and remove the front drive shaft and half shafts

the head oil gallery you are feeding it from has 2 direct feeds from the oil filter.

There is a place in manukau called protune. got my rb30 with linkplus tuned there for a good price and im pretty happy with what they did. A few friends have been there and have all been happy with price and what they got. Very friendly and helpful. You could go and see them and have a chat and they would at least give you some free advice about your setup and anything that might need to be done before a tune to save you some hours on a dyno doing repairs Also, you could look up bob homewood. he has a workshop in drury. he has tuned a few mates cars. he tunes a lot of track cars with good results. A few years ago his prices were reasonable, dont know anybody that has been there since Or you could try carl ruiterman (Spelling??) the drift guy, he did a mates rb30 with a G3 link and it runs great. i think he is in pukekohe

TS2CD, bought it as it was cheaper second hand than anything else i could have got for 30det, awd. a little bit of slip, enough to drive it reasonably in traffic. yet enough bite to side step it with a few revs on. pretty noisy tho, like a couple of dinner plates in the tumble drier. if you know what the noise is its not a worry tho.

It will be ok. Or if your worried, you could always drill and tap the oil filter adapter for a 1/4 fitting

Cut the belt that is too long and fit it to the motor with the cut ends at the top. Cable tie one end to a cam pulley and stretch the belt tigh so it overlaps the tied end. Mark the belt where it meets and you can count how many teetch you need. Look up econobelt online and order a belt with that many teeth and 1 inch/25mm wide, 8mm htd profile job done

How much power? Have you considered a hq 3 speed box? top gear is 1:1, they are cheap, lots of guys at home put them on the back of 350chevs in saloons in nz. We ran a 6.5 9inch then went to a 7!!! it was like a worm gear! Plus you can get the 9 inch head with an alloy nose and carrier to save a bit of weight.

i did it with an 8mm plate and it was a bitch. took me a long time. I chopped up 2x rb30 pickups and also one that came with a trust extended sump. i had to use an oxy set to tweak it a little and it was still a nightmare

mate of mine did it and has been running for maybe a year with no problems

oil supply fittings 1/8 npt

I used an 8mm plate, similar to the pro engines kit. Took me a few hours hours to draw with a sump, upside down block, large ruler and autocad. I did not notch the block for the whole cap screw head, just for the shank of the bolt, and made a strip of steel to run beside the block and the heads of the bolts sit half on the block skirt and half on the steel spacer. With only 8mm plate, it was just a few mins with a die grinder to slot the holes in the bellhousing to fit the box. If you weld a tight bend onto the oil pickup flange and give the outside of the bend a tap with a hammer there is about 1-2mm clearance from the axle tube. Also made one for a mate running over 500rwkws and hes had no troubles so im pretty happy

The green bit is the oil exit from the journal/vvt. If you look at the cam you will see a groove around it. the vvt solenoid blocks the return (green drain) and this pressurises the journal which pressurises the cam and pumps up the vvt mechanisim. Nice job btw! Have you welded up the oil feed in the head surface? you could insert a straight brass plug without machining the sides out of it and not need to weld up the oil feed in the bottom of the head surface.

The plug you want to pull out is pretty long, its a bit tricky to get out but can be done easily once you have done it once. You need to drill right through it with a 2mm then 5mm and tap to 6mm to get a bolt ina nd pull it out.

rb20de/det and 25de/det studs are same part number

Correct, remember to drill a 1.5mm hole in the new bung you put into the gallery, or you will lose a lot of oil through the vvt feed past the cam, past the solenoid and into the head. The oil will flow past the vvt solenoid the same way as factory. the solenoid works by blocking the return oil AFTER it has been to the front cam journal. When it is energized, it blocks the return, the front cam journal is pressurised and this activates the vvt.

Im pretty sure its HTD profile you want. I messed around with some ca20 twin cams a while ago and got my belts from econobelt http://www.econobelt.com/Q460/RFQ/default....ge=tbelt/12.htm they do a standard 20/30/50mm width for $23 usd, or they do custom width for a little more, i think i paid around $30 each. you need 25mm for RB Im sure Gates australia could help you tho, try giving them a ring

Yep. half the price too Myself and 3 other guys i know well are running them with no problems.

hydraulic lifters, only gtr and r34 rb25 neo? has solids

You can just stick in r33 rb25de pistons to get good comp, i think 11:1. should do the trick

just grab some 1/2inch pushlock hose and fittings from your local hydraulic supplier, its a lot cheaper than the flash looking braided hose and will do the job just as well, then you can still but a decent cooler without spending too much. im running swagelock hose and fittings, i could have got cheaper hose but my work has an account with them, its rated to 200psi at 200degC, and it cost me about $40nzd/$33aud, plus a decent cooler and filter mount from trademe - nz version of ebay. total cost around $200nzd/$170aud for big cooler, quality lines and fittings, and remote filter. A mate used hydraulic fittings and plain pushlok hose and china cooler and did it for half the price