fletch rb30

myself and 2 others i know are using them, the chinese greddy ones, and they all had water leaks. my one leaked from the water gallery out of the manifold, the other 2 leaked into a port. both No2 runner i think. We all used some of that devcon stuff that my mate aquired from work and gave the water port between No1 and 2 a thin coating.

is the blower 2.1L per revoultion? Thats like 2.36bar boost. your rb25 sucks 1.25L per rev, and your blower pumps 4.2L per rev. thats 3.36x engine volume. Should go good!!

r32 gts4, rb30det. 400hp at the wheels Been sitting in a shed for 2 years while i was in london and going back for another year in a few weeks so havent had it out much. Split my time between auckland and south taranaki, via the awakino gorge Im down to 4hrs, 10 mins so far!!

Just set one up today on a dirt track car. Using the holden astra/ suzuki swift/ opel euro box electric setup. t is not an electro hydraulic system. It is an electricalls assisted manual rack. There is a load sensor in the column which tells the motor to drive. 2 inputs are required from the car, rpm and speed. The rpm can be tricked with a small frequency generator to simulate a running engine, and the speed input varies the amount of assist you get from the motor. On the sprint car we put an adjustable pot on the frequency generator so we will have 5 levels of assist to try when we get to the track. It works very well so far, not tested under race conditions, but the assist is very powerful. There is also a pot in the booster motor which can be adjusted to increase or decrease the feedback to the driver. Max current draw about 45a if you load it up. i can get some photos if anybody is interested The mr2 setup is good if you are retaining the manual/hydraulic rack. You need to make sure you get the controller and set it up correctly. Many people just hook the pump up to 12v and its humming away all the time drawing a lot of current.

all the r33 and r32 and stagea sumps are the same, just the ratios are different. Dont know about r34 ones. never seen one

yep, straight on

The 4wd/abs ecu is one box. It needs wheel speed sensors, 0-3.5v signal from the ecu to indicate TPS position, G sensors, RPM signal. It will run without the tps signal but you will get a fault light. Without the tps signal, it wont load the 4wd up until the acceleration g-force gets up. If you get the r32 gtr wiring diagram, there is a page for the awd/abs ecu. You can see all the inputs you need and the outputs to the awd pump/abs solenoids. You can just disconnect all the outputs for the abs stuff, but keep all the inputs

i heard you can fit a mechanical sender out of a d22 navara to the rb25det box. Never seen it done, but got a mate that bought a few to convert some boxes and sell them.

its just an r33 plastic gear drilled out to suit the r32 shaft. you can do this yourself, took me an hour or so to work out out and do it properley. Not a bad price really. especially if you dont have a spare 32 and 33 sender handy

i got a smaller bearing from a datsun 200b or 160j. i think there are 2 sizes of 200b bearing, one is same as skyline, one has the smaller diameter

its an m8 or m10 cap screw. standard metric fine pitch. Hold the cv together and measure the length of the bolt you need and add 10mm to it. then go through your pile of nissan bolts and find one that screws into the flange on the diff. take this bolt and the length you need to a bolt shop. if your near east tamaki, go to bay engineering supplies and ask for D, tell her fletch sent you, and she will sort you out and give you a good price.

Rb25/26 awd block shown in photo. You can see the notch in the girdle where the front half shaft goes though the sump. Below that is the oil pickup mount on the rwd version of the block. it cannot go here due to the half shaft tube running below it. The pickup mount to the front of it is the awd pickup. The outer row of 10mm bolt holes is for the awd sump, the inner row (6mm) will fit the rwd sump. You can grind a little out of the side of the pickup flange and beat the side of the tin rwd sump a bit and it will bolt on. A few of the holes on the rwd sump line up with 10mm holes in the block. You can ream them out if you want, but a bit sump glue will seal it up no worries edit- just realised the photo i have attached is of a awd block that has been modded to suit a rwd pickup. They have put a grub screw into the awd pickup mount and drilled the rwd pickup mount. You could do this, but it will require stripping and cleaning the engine after drilling and tapping etc

You could use a vtec controller. If you need a hand, let me know, am in the auckland area all the time

I had to use an adaptor like this to fit a gt35/40r to rb25/30 in r32. The compressor housing was touching the manifold so a spacer was needed and it was a good place to fit wastegate fitting. If i used a straight spacer, the turbo would hit the chassisrail. as it sits now, i have about 20mm clearance

You can use the throttle cable from a U12 bluebird/pintara/trx. It has the same firewall mounts as the r32 and fitted perfectly on the greddy copy inlet on rb25/30 I believe the same age pulsar fits, something like a n13 ca18de or similar. P10 and p11 primera fits too, but i dont know if they come out is aus

the early ze pistons were 8:1 and the latest ones (ae101 ze) were 8.9:1. If you look on club4ag.com forums you should be able to find out all the specs on piston heights etc

it definatley wont fit a 10mm disc on the stock calipers, the pistons will fall out before the pads get close enough. You could probably run the 22-25mm disc on new pads, but when the pads wore you would be in danger of the pistons popping out, or binding up and locking the brakes. The machining would be pretty cheap, there are only 4 bolts holding it together and while your at it you could get a seal kit from nissan and rebuild the calipers. Pete puts the cut down calipers on many speedway cars, they are a relatively cheap caliper and work well enough for the job.

hey mate, im running the vvt head and had too much oil in the head, blocked the center feed, 1.5 in the back and about 1.4 in the vvt feed. Solved the problem and no lifter rattles. over 100psi cold and around 70psi hot oil pressure.

I think it fits r33 ok. i have seen a few done that dont appear to have any bonnet mods. On my 32 i peeled back the insulation under the bonnet and cut out a small section of the bracing and put the insulation back on. i think i have about 5mm clearance to teh cam pulley cover.

all the rb blocks have the same engine mounting points, so any rb will fit any rb engined car, the only difference is the heigth of the block, rb30 being 38mm taller than 25 and 26 (and 20??)

we used to run the gtst caliper on a 10mm disc on a speedway car. Take the caliper to a machine shop and get them to split the caliper and machine the 2 halves down the amount you need. Its a piece of cake

Looks liek you either need to re-drill and tap the top tensioner, or contact gates belts and get them to make you a custon lentgh belt. The next size they do in 8mm HTD is 164 teeth which is 96mm longer than the belt you have now and probably too long?

i would say that you will wreck the belt like that. Can you get another RB tensioner? they are the correct width and also seem to be cheaper than the RB idler pulleys. Plus like proengines said, you can adjust it to suit

just go down to paykels or similar and get a .9mm or .6mm (depending on what size you want) mig welding tip. they are 6mm outside. Cut a slice off it about 8-10 mm long, clean it up a bit and bash it in with a hammer! Im running stock rb30e bottom end with new rings and bearings, got the block skimmed and honed and new frost plugs and that was it. Been running well. If it blew due to poor assembly or worn parts i would just get another stock bottom end and do it again. 300kw at the wheels on less than 20psi, plenty of power for the price

CA series motors only run a 3/4 inch belt ~19mm wide, the rb belt is inch ~ 25mm wide. Are you sure your belt is not hanging over the side of the idler?? it will wreck the belt in minutes of running