fletch rb30

put the 25de o-rings on the new injectors. Or buy some new o-rings from nissan, i have rx7 550cc and with rb20 o-rings on them they are still really tight in the rb20 rail. I lubed them up a little with a little bit of new engine oil and made sure i didnt pinch the o-rings when i out them into the rail. Once they are in, you can pressurise the rail to 60psi and they wont fall out!

if thats the worst cylinders then you will be fine, a quick hone and some new rings and ya away

Looks mint. grab the end of the crank and try and push it back and forward in the block. If it slops back and forward, you might have worn thrust bearing, also put the flywheel or flex plate back on with 2 or 3 bolts lightly tightened and try and turn the crank back and forward. if any of the big ends are worn/damaged, the rods will slop on the crank. It sounds like your taking it to a shop to get it done anyway, i would just drop it off and let them go for it. they can measure the crank and if its worn, grind it down and run oversize bearings

u12 bluebird/pintara/stanza throttle cable also perfect fit, might be cheaper and more available than z32

yep

you need to download the gtr wiring diagrams. i dont have them on me anymore, but on the biggest diagram, the plus is in the bottom left, i think its called wc3. you have to blow up the pics and print them out on a3 and you can nearly read thw colours, but you can follow the lines from the plug to the end of the wire. There is a page just for the attesa/abs ecu, you can use a multi meter on the correct pin on the ecu and a long wire back to the cabin to find the correct wire.

The attesa ecu needs to recieve 0-3.5v signal for the tps signal, the stock ecu outputs this signal from the 0-5v signal coming from the tps. I have a link ecu and the voltage coming from the tps is 0.2-3.7v which is pretty close so i just hooked it up and it works fine. Link use an op-amp with 0.7 gain to modify the signal in their plug in ecu's. You could get somebody to make you one for a case perhaps If you have a 0-5v tps signal straight onto the attesa ecu, the ecu will think you have 100% throttle when your at 70% which is not really a bad thing, it will bring the 4wd on earlier

If you run the stock afm`s/injectors/cams it should run fine onthe stock ecu. It will just "see" more air and adjust fuel accordingly, as long as you dont cane it too much it should be sweet

How low is your car? i have seen some cv joints from a lowered gtr and they were rooted

Im running rx7 550cc top feeds in a side feed manifold. You need to get an 18.5mm (what i had on hand) drill bit and drill out the holes for the injectors. From memory i nearly drilled right through, it does not matter if you do tho. Then you can push the injector further into the manifold. the stock o-rings will not fall in as they are like 30mm. With the manifold off you can see the pintle of the injector is just sticking out a mm or 2 into the flow. I did this after i saw a mate with same setup as yours, under boost the o-rings were moving up the bottom of the injectors and i thought there was potential for fuel and boost to leak

you can rob most of the parts out of some model of z32, they have the abs unit in the rear i think, or all the lines go to the rear first or something, i have a mate that did a similar thing

I have r32 gts4 and the abs unit was removed by the previous owner, i have no idea why. When i got it, i removed the abs lines, fitted a gtst master cylinder and engine bay brake lines and pulled the abs light from the dash. You still need the abs sensors on the hubs for the 4wd to work correctly. I dont mind not having it as i have never had an abs car, but after driving a friends gtr in the wet, i would definatly keep it if i did the same car over again.

on the vvt motors there is a constant oil feed at the front which feeds the vvt only. it has a 1.5mm restriction in it at the top of the block and it runs straight up into the front cam journal. the front cam journal has 2 holes, one is a return back into the top of the head by the valve springs and stuff. on the way, the return goes through the solenoid. the vvt is engaged by the solenoid energising and blocking the return. this creates pressure in the front cam journal. you can see on the cams they have a groove on them, this goes right to the pulley on the front and when it gets oil pressure it moves the vanes inside the pulley and the camshaft position relative to the pulley changes. when the solenoid opens, the pressure drops off and the pulley goes back to normal timing. clear as mud?? i think it makes sense At first i was just going to run a rb20 cam, cut the solenoid in half at the pulg end and weld it up so it was always sticking out and blocking the return, then i would have engine oil pressure at the front cam journal and it would be lubricated.

I have a 25/30 with gt35/40 turbo. 1.06 rear housing. stock rb20/25det exh manifold. it makes 260rwkw with pretty much stock everything. the guy i bought the turbo off had a single cam rb30 with forged rods and pistons. he was making 550hp at the fly with 27 or 29psi boost and stock inlet manifold and cam etc. he got head ported, big cam, big valves etc ($$$) and made 652hp on 20-22psi but the engine was really working hard and he had ongoing problems. i put a stock rb25vvt head on a stock rb30 bottom end and its making 400hp at the fly, a bit more tuning and it will easily make 500hp. all up cost was around $6-7k. just used standard rebuild parts, rings bearing gaskets etc, and got he front oil gallery welded up and did the vvt feed line off the oil pressure sender with a tee fitting.

bkr6e, .8mm, rb30det, 16psi, 260rwkw. $2.50 NZ a plug was fouling plugs often, but have just upgraded to bluebird coils and now runs really well. back to dyno for more boost i think.

You can use a mazda familia diesel 1.7 litre timing belt, they are $17 bucks in NZ. Or you run one off a VW something, its 151 teeth, so you need the belt before you drill the hole for the top tensioner. its a better tooth profile and fits the pulleys better. Myself and a few mates are all running the mazda diesel belt on our rb30's probably at least 8 engines, and no failures

You drill and tap the plug just under the inlet cam, and pull it out with a slide hammer. its about 40mm long, but will prob snap in half when you pull it out. you can re-drill the bit left in the head and pull that out too. i would suggest drilling right through with say a 2mm drill bit first off. This plug blocks the lifter gallery from the front cam journal. Then you get a bit of brass machined to the correct diameter so you can tap it in for a pretty tight fit. get a 1.5mm hole machined into the end of it about 30mm deep. Tap this plug into the hole until its flush. drill down from the cam journal oil hole into the brass until you hit the center of the plug. using this method you can run the vvt without the external oil feed, or you can run a non vvt inlet cam. just leave the solenoid in place but unplugged. you only need the 1.5mm restriction down the centre of the plug so there is not too much oil flow dumping through the vvt solenoid from the lifter gallery when the solenoid is not energised. This method means you also dont have to weld up the oil gallery at the front of the head near the water jacket as it will be blocked off you should have all the lifters out when you do this and throughly clean the head before re-fitting it. hope this helps.

Chuck some epoxy on it, its only plastic. it will be ok.

you can take all the guts out of the transfer case but leave the speedo drive on the shaft, there is a small circlip that holds it in place.

R32gtr, r33gtr, r33 rb25det bell housings all bolt up. if you have a pull clutch bellhousing, you will need to swap the z32 input shaft/bearing cover over to the rb bellhousing to retain the push clutch

I removed the rack ends, drilled out some big galv washers so they fitted over the rack, screwed the rack ends back in so the rack could not move then removed all the lines and valves and fitted a r33 power steering pump. biggest cost was the pump, about $50 the rack is not as light as a lock bar, but it was free