rob77

Mate they ran a 12.3 with a 306hp r33, sorry 1400kg whale, last I looked I have the same 1400kg whale but with 339hp. Sorry to hear about your auto box... cant you drive a manual?

Cant wait to head down with the slicks steve. If they ran 12.3 with 306hp we should run high 11's with my setup

Can I ask why your afr's are so shite when you have a powerfc? You know the cars running extremely rich dont you? Was that done deliberately to stop detonation? I dont think 270kw is that impressive for 1.6bar of boost.

Search through this thread, this isnt the first time its being discussed and I'm tired of repeating myself over and over again to newbies. I've spent probably around 11-12k on my mods listed below.

I have a n1 copy with the stock turbo it wasnt too loud and it was probably quiet enough to pass the pits. Now I have a td06 its very loud and very drony, it doesnt give me a headache but I'm sure it wouldnt pass the pits now.

I took the tailshaft in, the compliance mechanic took it off for me and got it back the next day.

Its impossible to reach that power level on the stock turbo on a r33 most of them seem to max out around the 180-190kw (I have seen over 200rwkw but on a dyno that reads notoriously high) so you will need to upgrade the turbo and the intercooler. Do a search on here for turbo's and you'll pull up a heap of threads one guy in particular has made good power using a vg30 turbo and modifying it slightly and ended up costing less than $500 I think. If you want a complete turbo I'd get something along the lines of a garrett gt25/40 (around $1900-$2000) and that will get you just over 200kw, if you want 250kw get a gt30 as for the intercooler just find a good locally made unit, you can get a good japanese kit like a hks or a trust from a certain person in japan but you risk paying import duty and gst (a total of 25% more).

I had the name of the people that did mine, Unijoint engineering (I think I've lost the card) they did a good job. When my car came off the boat the wheel was vibrating badly at 80km/hr+ so it went off and had all 3 unijoints machined out and replaced has been fine since (almost 2 years ago) was around $360.

It was probably crushed due to some discrepency in the car if they were trying to go through SEVS/RAWS. A small amount of damage, ie the type that could occur in the shipping process, can result in it having to be destroyed.

sounds like metal marbles rolling around in the engine bay or a loose screw rattling around.

my car pulls hard in all gears, except when its spinning its wheels check my mods list below

I'be got a hks boost gauge (reads up to 2bar) currently running 1 bar through the turbo and a greddy oil pressure gauge. I've found the gauges move much quicker than the stock ones plus being mounted on my a-pillar they are easier to read than the stock ones without taking my eyes off the road too much.

You can have 3/4 of his power, just buy my car and put the engine in yours

Insurance companies arnt dodgy, they just know that young driver + fast car = bad news (even if you've done heaps of driver training etc etc). The best thing to do is drive a bunky (old gemini) for a few years and get up a 40-50% NCB and then try again. It sucks but do you really want to pay $3500/year for insurance, prang the car and then be told by the insurance company they wont pay up because you modified the car, or there was evidence to show you were doing faster than the speed limit?

Looks like my apexi n1 with not so much angle. I found my exhaust damn loud, it has no resonator at all its all straight through to the muffler. The good thing about these sorts of exhaust is they maximise exhaust gas flow which equates to healthy power gains initially and later on with more mods the drawback is the noise I'm glad I dont have a screamer pipe on my external wastegate to go along with the loud exhaust or I'd be cop bait

Not sure as the boost wasnt measured. Probably 1-2 psi... nothing major. stock boost is limited to around 5-6psi so possibly rose to 8psi.

It causes the car to run rich because the air isnt being fed back into the air intake like the stock bov used to and stock ecu expect so to compensate it'll run richer (usually get a pop/fart from the exhaust on gear changes) and when slowing down and stopping the car may stall at idle. In all honestly you only need to upgrade your bov if you run a much larger aftermarket turbo and much higher boost and even then I'd probably pick a plumback so it goes back into the air intake instead of venting to the atmosphere but if you want the psssssttttchhhhuuuu sound then go for the atmo bov just remember whats going to happen I know cos I've been there and done that, had an apexi twin chamber bov it annoyed me so much I went back to the stock one and I'm still running it even with the gear listed below.

Sorry the peak gain was 18kw, it went from 97kw to 115kw @ wheels. You can definately feel it because the midrange improvement from fitting a free flowing exhaust is huge. Boost comes on quicker and slightly higher and the car revs out faster I could definately feel the difference.

If the turbo's were brand spanking new you might be able to run 1.1bar for a little while without any problems, but seeing as most of the turbo's in our cars have covered 50,000km's+ before we got them its safe to say keep the boost to 12psi unless you want the ceramic wheels to fall off. There is no black and white no dead straight line down the middle of where you can safely run "x" boost but the most comon setting to see a good life out of the turbo is around 12psi or 0.8bar. If they are n1 turbo's which I think have steel wheels then 1.1bar is fine. As for water injection I thought that only starved off detonation?

My car got here dead stock, it was the same way when it left the factory showroom nothing had been changed. First thing I did was fit a 3.25" exhaust system from the cat back (and I have a shitty 2.5" cat, cheap compliance cat put in) and immediately we gained 15kw @ wheels and the exhaust note changed immensley. The car was much quicker, free-reving and boost jumped a little bit. Its not a huge gain in the scheme of things but its the first thing I would change on any car if I was looking for more power as stock exhausts are made for quiteness not flow.

hiflow cats are a waste of time.

Just heat. The higher the boost the more heat created, with the stock r33 turbo there isnt much point in taking it above 12psi as above that it only creates more heat than power and will decrease the life substantially.

smooth, just heavy on the foot. if you drive in peak hour traffic for an hour I wouldnt recommend it.

I have a 9finger/puck clutch with a 2500pound pressure plate from a perth company called perth autoclutch (I think he uses an extreme clutch from that place in adelaide, the purple clutches) seems to handle the power well no slipping that I have found.

I too have also found the stock gauges very slow to respond. I have a greddy oil gauge as well and it moves much faster than the stock oil pressure gauge.