rob77

i ran 12psi (0.8bar) through my stock turbo using a blitz dual sbd boost controller for about a year before i upgraded. I wouldnt be trying to force more boost than that on the stock unit otherwise you might find the ceramic exhaust wheel in your cat and then you'll have no boost. My question to you is what boost controller are you using? electronic or a manual bleed valve? Anything to check might be the spring on the wastegate actuator, maybe the spring is getting weak and cant hold the gate open as well anymore?

I have a trust i/cooler and it actually has "greddy" moulded into the top of the cooler. Also all the blue silicon hoses have "greddy" written in white on them as well.

Cars all finished, took a series 1.5 front bar and had it modified, side skirt was fixed up, had all the lovely pin dents and scratches removed, cut and polish and finally put the 18"s on the front. Its up for sale, if you know anyone who is interested PM for details.

Mods as per my signature.

If i had my time again I think I'd go the PFC a lot of initial cold start issues and the auxilaries (like air con, full lock on the steering wheel causing the power steering pump to work harder) coming on making the car stall. I think the PFC and hand controller will also tell you how much engine knock you have, dont think the wolf does that and more tuners around for the PFC as well.

Get the blitz, it will be a simple case of "bolt-on". My trust kit was installed in a couple of hours by a workshop as all they had to do was remove the front bar, remove the old one, mount the new one and fit the pipes and hoses. The only triming to be done was to increase the flow through the stock front bar. If you are handy with a spanner and not quick to get frustrated (unlike myself) you should be able to fit it yourself with a few mates to help out.

when my car got here from japan it had a bad vibration and the compliance workshop got all 4 wheels balanced and aligned however the problem still persisted. He dropped the tailshaft and he 3 uni-joints were worn and not moving freely he sent it off to some place in osborne park and they machined the joints and replaced them and all was fine again.

Driving home tonight a lancer gsr (I think) comes up on my tail with a bit of gusto so I floor it and he follows, but we came to a bit of road where we had to merge and he drops in behind at this point I check my rear view mirror and I can see at least 2 toddlers maybe 3 in the car with him... insane.

Restrict the capacity and the power combined with an advanced driver training course and more supervised hours driving will all help. Remember though a 1.8l lancer will still do over 150km/hr and thats lethal, maybe we should also restrict the speed? its all too much, more experience is the key, not just hand them a license after doing their test and off they go literally with a loaded gun.

a wire has been cut on the loom to your ecu if you can go above 180km/hr on a std ecu

I ran 12psi (high boost) and 10psi (low boost) for a year on my r33 without any problems.

If only more workshops looked that clean and well layed out.

I have enkei 18x9 rims with 265/35 rubber and I have no rubbing issues at all on the rear, still stock ride height though.

does look good, I came across these too on ebay... damn cheap for 18's. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...7904398780&rd=1

I think you'd find the 17c exhaust housing a bit too small for a rb25det, as most people have said 20g and 25g are the way to go. I'd like to see a t67-25g on a rb25det, HPI had one on a sr20det along with cams it made good power earlier and peaked quite high (wasnt quite 300rwkw but wasnt far off I think).

Nope, I am selling it now. If i had another $10k, I'd do the suspension, buy some decent 18" rubber, fit a high mount manifold, bigger straight fit injectors, put in a lightweight flywheel and get it re-tuned... and I'm sure I'd make a peak power well over 400hp and a much higher average power than I have no. Fact of the matter is, I've spent well over what I should have in the first place and its time to sell it and move on. My next project will be a lightweight, chuckable, go-kart type car.... sure it wont have the same straight line performance, but it'll be extremely light and hug corners

I rebuilt the engine because it died, I have a stock manifold and injectors because I've spent more than enough already.

yup stock ones.

gtst-vspec has a gt30, unsure of the size although I think its rated at 500-550hp and his hits full boost much quicker than mine, high 3000's rpm wise.

Once my engine was rebuilt with forged pistons we ran up 366hp @ 1bar on a td06-20g 16cm^2 exhuast housing. I had the exhaust housing and dump pipe ceramic coated whilst the engine was in bits and I get full boost by 4300rpm. Do a search on "average power" as that thread has a copy of my dyno sheet. Its such a wild ride now, it goes from ~160hp to ~330hp in the space of 1000rpm. I'd like to try higher boost settings, but without bigger injectors, a decent exhaust manifold (its all bolted onto the stock one) and some cams I dont think its worth it. Only fault I find is the lag, a ball bearing turbo would probably come on boost about 500-800rpm quicker for the same size.

Whose was the first?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=42767 First guy to run a 12 with a stock turbo and ecu.

Nice figures doughboy, I guess you'd be having the same traction problems as me. I jump from ~160hp @ 4000rpm to ~285hp @ 4500rpm

yeah just saw it on 9, alcohol was involved and the driver has passed away I'm sure I heard.

Pirelli P-Zero Nero are the way to go, not cheap though 255/40 ZR17 were around the $550 each mark... grips damn well in the wet and good in the dry too. just a tad soft dont expect too many km's.