rob77

With 265 rubber on the back traction is still an issue, its only cheap rubber I want to put some decent rubber on when I put the other 2 18" rims I've got on. I've yet to give it full throttle in any gear yet, wheelspin in 2nd and 3rd as boost comes on quickly havent gone too hard in 4th. Really need to get down to the motorplex and give it a run down the 1/4.

I remember SK talking about average power a while back. This is my latest dyno chart, 1.2bar wasnt tried as it seems the turbo is running out of puff and/or the stock exhaust manifold is restricting its flow. Can anyone tell me what the average power is?

Yeah, shouldnt be any drama's. I've used optus insurance a couple of times, you just pay the excess and they cover accidental theft/loss/damage from memory it was around $150 excess.

I didn't know SST offered an extended payment plan.

Just want to say thanks to ant for putting my engine back together and thanks to glen & ken for doing the final tune/check. The result was 366hp @ 1bar as it looks like the turbo's running out of puff as well as the exhaust manifold restricting it. If anyone has any questions about my rebuild/tuning feel free to PM me.

My cusco one works... as I broke 2 ringlands it filled up with oil... enough so that it spewed oil all over my engine bay, intercooler pipes and turbo As I'm running the engine in currently there is no new oil in the can yet that I can see on the clear indicator.

I might be interested, depending on timing, on the rotor's only as well.

Cant remap r33's, the ecu microprocessor and the rom chip that contains all the maps are on the same chip, only r32's and silvia's can be remaped.

Have you read what most of the people have been saying here? The rb25de engine runs much higher compression than the rb25det, this means if you bolt a turbo onto it it will more than likely ping due to the boost and high compression. It will cost more like $5k (to buy a rb25det and then install it) to do the conversion, plus you still need to change the brakes (well you dont have to but I would as the gts25-t came with better brakes than the gts25). Next you'll be asking about doing an auto to manual conversion... *laugh*

If you want a turbo car buy that model, rather than trying to turbo the NA version.... it will cost you a heap more to turbo the NA version as there are so many differences in the engine (and brakes).

Well I just got my car back from being rebuilt and it seems louder and more throaty than before (even though it shouldnt, its probably because I havent driven it for a long time ) We did a before and after dyno when I fitted just the cat back section of my N1 and I gained in the region on 18kw@wheels all up this was the first mod I did and I'm sure all the mods after have gained more for it Just hope I dont get pulled over cause then I will have to put a resonator on the system.

I think I have a 70mm flange lying around here somewhere, it bolts onto the stock rb25 AFM, if thats the same as the s13 unit (maybe someone can answe that as I dont know) make me an offer.

I have a panasonic DV camcorder you can borrow, pm me.

I'm at 339hp with my stock injectors (cleaned and flow tested) running at about 70% duty cycle the only addition to my fuel system is a bosch 910 pump.

Is her car completely stock? Geez... she started at the wrong end If your car is stock, I'd either sell the turbo and get an exhaust (the absolute first thing you do on any car to increase HP is change the exhaust) or put the turbo on a shelf and do a lot of other things first.

Yeah... been there done that mind you I had most support systems in place before I did the turbo I talked it over with quite a few people before deciding which way to go.

I'm pretty sure most T04's are externally gated, this means it wont bolt onto your existing exhaust manifold. You will need a new one which will take an external wastegate, or you can do what I did, had the external wastegate welded onto the exhaust housing, do a search on "td06 stage" in this thread and you might find some photo's of it, if you want photo's pm me your email and I will send them on. Next you will need new oil and water lines (I'm not sure if the T04 is water cooled, correct me if I am wrong) if it doesnt need a water line you will need to have the existing water line plugged up. Next you will probably come across some sort of boost/fuel cut as the stock ecu doesnt like much over 12psi of boost. Following this you will start to lean out at the top end as your stock fuel pump cant cope with the demand of the bigger turbo requiring more fuel. Next your stock clutch will start to slip and then die because it cant handle the extra power. Have I missed anything guys??? Fitting a bigger turbo isnt just a simple case of swapping them over it requires a lot of systems to be upgraded prior... oh I just remembered do you have a bigger intercooler? you'll need a fmic to help stop detonation.

rb25 block... just needed to be bored out a bit to fit 87mm pistons.

Block is back apparently from the machinist, just needs to go back together, then run in and then we can tune it up

No car wasnt ready should be done this week... I'll head down one sunday when the winter drags start again... if you're lucky only a handful of other cars turn up and you can get almost back to back runs, unlike most wednesday nights.

Never ends dave next you'll be after a tuneable ecu so you can get the most from your setup

Thats a nice self portrait kamikaze

I dont think the td05-18g will get you to 400hp the td06-20g should. Mine made 339hp @ 1bar the engine has gone in to be rebuilt with forged pistons and I expect we should see 400hp at reasonable boost levels. Before I killed the engine I drove around on 1.2bar (thats how I killed it) and the difference between 1 and 1.2bar was huge in the seat of pants region... didnt get a chance to dyno it as it developed a misfire and then piston 3 and 6 ringlands went. I also think on trust's website they recommend the td06-20g for the r33 and the td05 for the sr20, i have the huge 16cm^2 exhaust housing and it makes full boost by 4300rpm if you went for a 12cm^2 it should come on a bit quicker but you might loose a bit of top end, my car pulls hard all the way to the redline (which was set at 7500) but we might take it to 8000rpm as it still pulling hard. The only problem with my car (nothing huge) is that to get the most out of it you have to pull it to the redline and then shift, any short shifting will result in dropping out of the power band and the turbo having to spool back up again. If you want more info PM me.

I've had great fun with my td06-20g so far, and now once the engine is finished (forged pistons going in) I cant wait to try out 1.2-1.4bar of boost

18psi?? surely they cant be std turbo's then otherwise the exhaust wheel would fall off?