rob77

what sort of boost level you running got boost?

My dump pipe on the stock turbo cost me under $200 and worked a charm, dropped the spoolup from 3500 to 2500 and gave me a fatter midrange and a peak HP gain of 10hp. A dump/front combo pipe would certainly cost more than $200 perhaps that is what you are thinking of? A dump pipe is only the small pipe that comes directly off the turbo and then connects to the front pipe which goes then to the cat. no point in just doing the dump pipe as you need to change the front pipe to 3-3.5" to help the flow.

No, would be good if someone (if they taped it) could divx it or something.

you can borrow mine if you like. pm me for details.

nice micko... I've had my bits painted r34 bayside blue... I'll post some pics soon

yes a cheap day indeed with a fully prepped track... and no car.

no drag combat for me

Well done kyles

*sigh* I want that GTR damn babies... if only it wasnt so much fun making them

Boost/fuel cut... if it was the plugs wouldnt it misfire?

Best value for money is a fmic off a GTR I believe they will support around 350hp and can be had for around the $600-$700 mark depending on age and condition. Then you just need to get some pipes made up and then fitted, if your good with tools you can probably fit the cooler/pipes/do any trimming yourself. A mate of mine did this with his 180sx and I think it cost him about $1k tops and made a huge difference in performance.

I've never heard of an engine pinging at idle. My timing belt was loose when it got here from j-land and that made a noise (cant remember what sort) at idle. Pinging doesnt normally happen till the cars on load, ie: 4000+rpm with 100% throttle. When the days were warm in Perth and I still had the stock i/c I could always hear some pinging around 4000rpm on hard acceleration when running 12psi on the ebc. If the cars fairly std I cant think why it would ping at all.

I will race, providing my car is ready, tuned and the engine run in enough.

I've ordered a few things through brent and its all been delivered promptly and quickly without any drama's.

Very sorry to hear about your father alan. *hugs* My engine died after the ringlands completely blew on cyclinder 3 and 6, we think this was mainly related to the amount of boost I was running. I fiddled around with the ebc and dialed up what I thought was a safe 1.1bar (was probably 1.3bar) and the engine died within a month. I think with running 339hp at 1 bar its time was limited as it had started to use more oil and the oil catch can was filling much quicker than normal. Its being rebuilt with forged internals and support gear and we hope to hit 400hp@wheels there after.

Did you know shes married to charlie sheen... geez, she could do so much better than that

Congrats, I hope it all goes well! "sort of" sister??

oh also the gain of HP from 0.8bar to 1bar to 1.1bar wouldnt even be worth the risk, you might gain 5-10hp tops, the turbo is running out of flow.

Like I said before its an unknown quantity. Some people run 1bar of boost all day every day and have no problems and then some people turn the boost up a little bit (like this guy with the r32 gtr) for an event, it was a motokhana, and his ceramic wheel fell off. Going back to what the original question is "can you run more than 1bar", the answer is no and if you run 1 bar for any length of time be prepared to change your turbo. At the end of the day this is a forum and whats said on here should be taken with a pinch of salt I suggest you talk with your mechanic before doing anything if they know what they are doing they will point you in the right direction. If you dont want to or dont have the funds to buy a new turbo, dont run more than 12psi oh also dont go thrashing it in 40 degree heat like we have in perth at the moment, the car will probably ping.

Correct... and what causes heat? more boost. Turbo's have an efficiency range, ie: a certain boost level that when exceeded the turbo makes more heat than power. Ceramic exhaust wheels hate heat and therefore you should run then at safe boost levels.

T3 is the type of flange on the turbo where it bolts onto the exhaust manifold so when choosing a new turbo make sure it has a T3 flange on it or you will have to have an adaptor plate made up for it or a new exhaust manifold. Personally I would never run 1bar through my turbo for any length of time be it short or long unless I had the funds around to replace the turbo. We have no idea when the turbo will call it a day but its safe to say that at 12psi (which is about double the factory setting) it should last a long time. I have seen on an r32 GTR the cermaic wheels come off when the car had only been run at 1bar for a very short period... I think it was set to 1bar for that day and they came off pretty quickly. He then proceeded to fit a couple of HKS gt2530's and now makes 400hp @ wheels Unless you have the funds around, dont try it.

Not 100% sure what they call it but I think its a t28 and I wouldnt run more than 12psi through it for a long amount of time as it has a ceramic exhaust wheel which loves to fall off when you run more than 12psi for too long.

I have the rspl not the vspl kit that nengun has been sending in. The rspl is a better core with end tanks/piping that come back under the cooler so that it uses the stock cooler pipes into the engine bay... ie: very litte modification and thus costs more, but you're right $2500 is a tad rich. I havent run the 1/4 recently, lasttime I went down I could only manage a 13.8 with a 2.7s 60' time at around 115mph. As you can see I cant drive I kept on changing too early and the turbo kept falling off boost. I'm waiting till the engine is done then we are having a Drag Combat day where the track will be fully prepped, I expect to run low 12's on street tyres... maybe a high 11, just need to get in a few good runs and get the launch right.

Well I ordered my trust cooler from the workshop here as at the time I wasnt completely aware of nengun and I also didnt want to go through the hassle of having it shipped here and being hit with GST and duty or having it arrive with a big dent or hole in it. I paid $2500 for it, if I knew what I knew today then I would have just gone with a local made core. I too believe that the japanese equipment is better than the local equipment, but I dont think its worth the extra I paid for the cooler. Having said that I also have the trust turbo and blitz boost controller matched to a turbosmart wastegate and a wolf3d ecu and so far the package has worked extremely well... I just cant wait for the rebuild to be finished, the engine run in and around 1.2-1.4bar dialed in

The project R34 from HPI used an apexi GT spec cooler. The cooler had a return pipe passing underneath/behind the cooler and coming back up into the stock pipes in the engine bay which is simular to my trust unit. At the end of the day most of the australian coolers do the job well and usually for a cheaper price (unless you go through nengun). If its going to end up costing you more than $1500 I'd have a look around for whats available locally.