rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4

Last time I was @ SST for a dyno, the car was stock (completely, not even an aftermarket exhaust or pod) and managed only 97kw@wheels, after fitting a c-red apexi n1 lookalike cat back exhaust it rose to 115kw@wheels (small advance via the CAS). Since then the blitz spec s EBC has gone in, a HKS green pod and now the trust fmic and my cars pulling 175kw@wheels (with no pod, the HKS unit is leaning the fuel curve out a bit too much at the top end, might go for one of those $25 hurricanes). An interesting fact as well is my EBC (for some odd reason... gonna have to get speedworks to check it) is not holding 12psi of boost (though it reads it). At around 5500-6000 (when the valve timing cuts in) its dropping to around 9psi. So with a better pod, a bit more advance (as the cooler is doing more than enough keeping intake temps down) and the ebc holding 13psi flat it should crack 200kw@wheels. Either way I look at how much money I've spent I think its more than worth every dollar. I'll also be looking at the dump+front pipe soon too, as thats causing flow restrictions. So I've picked up 60kw@wheels, thats over 50% more power... although I've spent a fair bit, I'm sure you could get simular results spending less too, just look at rev210, nobody's been able to beat him yet with a stock turbo or intercooler

ahh I remember. glass, like glass watch faces, only light scratches mind you.

cheapo lights are around $7.50 a bulb. Toothpaste is an abrasive so it makes sense that it would clean the plastic... I've heard it being used to polish other things too, but cant remember.

I agree. I have the 2500pound pressure plate and the thing is a bitch to drive in peak hour traffic. You *have* to rev to about 1500-2000rpm and slide the clutch out (makes hill starts a pain too), otherwise you'll get shudder and the car will bunny hop along. I dont think rev gets this, he has the same 9 finger/puck clutch but a smaller pressure plate.

I cant say how much it cost me, but thats what most people would pay. As I said before speedworks do all my work, and I've known ivan & crew for a while. This kit took 2 hrs to fit, I'd like to see an aussie kit being fitted in 2 hrs or less as most of them simply dont bolt into place as easily and as quickly as japanese stuff. I've always been a believer that japanese stuff is much better than aussie stuff (you pay for what you get), plus I'd rather pay the extra now and go over what I might end up needing than pay less now and then find it wont flow as well as it should and have to spend more money down the track. I still havent decided upon how much power I want exactly. If I choose a gt3037 turbo, I'll need a cooler this size to handle it. Anyway, I'm happy with the kit, regardless of how much I paid. Why are japanese exhausts dearer than the aussie made ones? I've heard a jap one and a aussie one side by side and the aussie is far much louder than the japanese, but the flow on the japanese is better. I doubt my car would be faster than someone whose done the same mods but only spent $1500 on a cooler.

The cooler fitted was somewhere over $3000, thats for drive in and out all chopping etc. The bar will be replaced with a 400r more than likely, so I'm not bothered with how it looks right now, just the flow.

And another pic.

Ok, pics of the front bar and cooler. As you can see the middle section of the front bar has been chopped and my number plate moved to the side. Its not bad from the pics, but up close you can see where the plastic was cut and it looks average, but all I am interested in is flow. I'll be heading down to SST tonight between 7-7:30pm to dyno the car if anyone else wants to turn up and have a look your more than welcome. Enjoy.

from? the only thing that could hurt it would be a large rock... and I dont drive behind cars on gravel roads too often... if it gets a bit crappy after a few weeks, I might think about some mesh.

Oh yeah. I'd like to thank AJ, Sumo and Baz @ Speedworks ((2428888) for all their work and help with the kit and car. Although it took a damn long time to get it all sorted, it looks and performs great and their workmanship is 2nd to none. I think I will get some aluminin pipes made up to go into the engine bar from the cooler to turbo and manifold. If anyone is considering a jap cooler I reckon give them a go (they also make coolers too, if you cant stretch the budget that far).

Ok, here's a pic of the cooler fitted. Basically the bar that goes across the middle has been removed and my front bar (series 1 non m-spec) has been butchered to give maximum flow. I dont think it looks too bad, but up close it does look crap. I'll take some photo's of the car with the front bar fitted up tomorrow morning. First impressions is I feel maybe another 10-20HP at the wheels, the car is certainly pulling much harder than before. I cant hear any pinging (before it was quite loud, marbles rattling around) but it still may be pinging. Next stop will be a dyno and maybe look at my AF ratio's to find out how rich the car is running. Next mod will be the dump+front pipe, wait a few months then SAFC 2 (hopefully the dollar holds out against the yen) then a few more months and the ogura flywheel (as per rev210). Then I'm not sure... its either bigger turbo or full ecu, I'm sure I will need a new fuel pump and regulator before that stage. I also want a 400r front bar for the front now, seeing as I have a fmic to suit. Enjoy pic, I will post more tomorrow.

I have photo's of the cooler fitted to my car and I'll post them when I get home. So my cooler is finally on. The unit uses the stock pipes in the engine bay (I will get some nicer looking/better ones made up and use greddy silicon hose joiners) and has the end tank returning underneath the cooler. Looking forward to the drive home from work tonight *grin* Anyone want a stock cooler?

Coolo. I dropped my car off this morning and Speedworks only has 1 other car to do today, so with any luck I should have mine serviced and intercooler in by tonight I think I will go a set of these after I do the turbo-cat pipes.

I have an jap made apexi N1 system (its not an apexi and doesnt wear the same price tag) Jeff Ash from c-red can organise one for you, about $1k from the cat back. I've taken beeble for a drive and he reckons they are tops as. Good looking unit and the in car noise is quite minimal, plus you should pickup around 15kw at the wheels. Rev210 went to quickfit exhausts in morley and they did a dump+front pipe for around $400, so once thats all on expect maybe a 20kw @ wheels gain, plus a tad more boost.

maybe I done that... oh well... me take it back when I get lightweight fly wheel and get it sorted.

bedding in??? I put mine in before yours Mine should have been in bed and asleep a long time ago hehe... I think its more the pressure plate causing the shuddering... ah well, just rev the shit out of the engine and dump her everytime

Yes... I would have liked a nice japanese kit, os giken, but at a couple of g's just for the kit I had to go this way.

I started a thread in maintenance about cleaning glass and most people replied that newspaper and a bit of elbow grease does the job. I was a bit skeptical, but I just went and tried it and it does wonders, my rear window had crap and stuff on it from when it came over from japan I couldnt get off with windex with just plain newspaper it rubbed straight off!

any pics?

where abouts is works auto, address and number? Also any idea of opening times?

I've got a 9 puck/finger jobbie with a 2500pound pressure plate and I find I need to get the car up to 1500-2000rpm to get the car moving without an shudder or jerking from the clutch, the friction point is so damn low. Its annoying driving through peak traffic and I am planning on taking it back and getting him to look at it and see if anything is wrong. However it is a excellent clutch in terms of non-slip. I went to the drags with my stock clutch and could only manage a 14.59 pass, with just the new clutch (and only having it about 4 days) I managed a 14.11. Its a good clutch, I just think something might have come loose on mine... I'll get it checked and let you know. Its about $820 drive in and out for that setup, providing nothing else needs doing.

Personally, I would take it to a decent workshop or mechanic, get him to fix it and then DONT ****ING TOUCH SHIT YOU DONT KNOW ABOUT! I'm no good with my hands and I'm certainly no mechanic, I dont even attempt to change my oil myself (even though its piss easy and I should, but I know if I do I'll **** something up and it'll cost me more money). I think its time you stopped touching things and left it to people who know what they are doing

I have a blitz power sus panel filter if you are interested, I also have a new paper one (was fitted for compliance) you can have the blitz for $70 and the paper one for $10 if you want. As for tyres you need *brand* new tyres on all 4 rims to get it over the pits, so my suggestion is buy some decent ones and then get some new mags and wheels when they are worn. Or if you have plenty of dosh buy some cheap 205/55's (I got some ceat tornado's for $130ish per corner) and then sell the stock rims and get a nice set of japanese deep dish rims alla 18x9" and get some nice dunlop rubber to suit

How much for the 400r front bar, unpainted?