rob77

My r33 has a simular vibration and it was the same fault. When it came off the ship from japan and went for compliancing it vibrated. Anyway about $360 later I got all 3 unijoints machined and replaced and the car drives so smoothly up to 200km/hr I would say the place hasnt balanced the tailshaft properly. Rob

In my experience, 2 mates with mild mod'd cars (one r32 and one r33) both have done a head gasket (the r32 definately has, the r33 is suspected to have, its running like a dog and displaying the right characteristics). It seems the japanese like to mod their cars, but dont really bother about the servicing and maintenance. Both rev210 and I had fairly stock cars to begin with and both are running extremely well. At the end of the day its all pot luck. Rob

Probably not now. I think it might have to be late january or something as there hasnt been a lot of interest. I have also found out I'll be working the Sunday I've organised it on as well Rob

The factory one is not in PSI its in mm/Hg or cm/Hg. Whats that? Its mercury, the 7 mm/Hg = ~13.7psi. As its been said many times the stock gauge is reasonably inaccurate its hard to read, best to buy an aftermarket. If you have a few hundred to spend (300-400) get a greddy/hks/apexi. If you dont get an aussie one, spitfire or something. The jap ones are more accurate in my opinion, but *anything* is better than the stock one in the car. I got my HKS one 2nd hand from japanese motorsport for $160 + P&H and works a treat. Rob

I didnt say play with the CAS yourself... geez, if you dont know what your doing dont do anything. Take it to a workshop and get them to do it. Rob

Under heavy acceleration, when the engines warm and over 5500rpm sounds a lot like pinging. As suggested try some octane booster and go see if it still does it, the key is if you hear it dont keep your foot floored back off immediately. If the timings been advanced it can be retarded by moving the Crank Angle Sensor on the front of the engine, if you want it checked Speedworks have a timing light so they can check it. I found out mine was slightly advanced, but only by 1 degree's or 2. (add's about 2-3kw@wheels). Rob

My Cyclops set me back under $500 fitted. Works well with the turbo timer, the car locks and the alarm arms itself when I hit the button, then as soon as the turbo timer finishes it arms the immobiliser. Dropped my insurance premium by 10% I think cos its a class 1 or something. All good stuff, all the cars I've owned have had a car alarm cept for the old bomb of a gemini I used to drive. Rob

I'm guesing they will. Ivan just said make sure you bring your 'wheel nut keys'. Rob

I'm in the UK from 27/12 through to 20/01 so thats why I made it mid december... sorry. Rob

Righto. The dyno day is set for the 14th or 15th of December, so I need your preference (mine is for the sunday, as I usually work saturdays). The cost is $30/car, unless we have 20+ then its $25/car. Its a dynapak dyno so it involves removing wheels, but is highly accurate as you dont get any slipping/traction issues. They have all 4 units so GTR's and GTS4's can be dyno'd, so I need to know; 1). Which day? 14th or 15th? 2). Whose coming? The sooner the better. Rob

Getting rid of the atmo bov fixed my problems, I've heard a few other people complaining of the same problems and I've heard a few people having no problems at all with atmo bovs. Looks like it changes from car to car. Rob

Are both BOV's venting? ie: is the std one still hooked up? This will cause problems on its own. I had a plate made up so that the std one could be blocked up. In the end I tossed the atmo bov its more problems then its worth. They make your car run extra rich, so you use more fuel and loose power, and they make your car stall because the AFM has no idea whats going on because instead of returning the air to the intake its going out to the atmo. Rob

19"?? or 18"? Ah well, no good for dragging then. Until you get a different set of rims on the back with different tyres it's pretty trivial. Rob

Hicks, your black r33 looks incrediably like a r32 to me. Maybe I'm going blind. To run into the 13's you need a low 60 foot time, around 2.1-2.3, which means you need good off the mark traction. Whiteline make a diff craddle kit, its 4 poly-urethene bushes that adjust the rear craddle for maximum traction. Also a good set of tyres, dunlop f901's or sp9000's will do the trick and depending on your rim size. If you've got a nice set of 17x9" deep dish rims you can stretch some 255/35 or something over them, maybe 235/45. you want something with a fair amount of sidewall for flex when you launch. btw: I've only got a cat back exhaust, electronic boost controller set to 0.8bar, hks pod filter, heavy duty clutch and a set of 225/55 r16 dunlop sp9000's and I ran a 14.11 wednesday night just gone. Rev210 (dave) has got a turbo back exhaust, running around 8-10psi boost and he ran a 13.8! Rob

I agree, but I still reckon I can run a 13.7... just need to keep trying Rob

Try HBF chris. my mate just did his silvia with them. Rob

Ok, troy has said to organise it so I will. I say speedworks, probably some Sunday in December (as I wont be here in january). Anyone? Anyone? The deal is $30/car unless we can get 25+ cars then its $25/car. Rob

Going back to the original thread, I was told that I would need more power. I still havent got more power, I've got more traction. All rev210 and I are trying to prove is that you dont need to spend large dollars on front mounts, bigger turbo's or hiflow'd turbo's, safc's or new ecu's to run into the 13's. You guys said I couldnt and rev210's done it. At the end of the day I respect your knowledge chris, you've driven enough skylines to know whats what. At the end of the day all of us have the same common goal, to get as fast a time we can. I'm just trying to show that you can get a fast time given the small amount of mods I've done, same as dave. Rob

I have a cat back exhaust, still running std dump pipe/front pipe and cat. a blitz dual sbc boost controller (set to 0.8bar). HKS pod filter (green one). cusco front strut brace (adds heaps of HP . whiteline diff kit (adds traction not HP). 2500Pound pressure plate clutch with 9 "fingers" (again no HP, but no clutch slip). dunlop 225/55 SP9000 tyres (better traction). I'd say at a rough guess I've got somewhere around 180rwhp. I still dont understand how a clutch can be deemed a HP mod, all it adds is more traction and less clutch slip so quicker take-up. I think rev210's onto something big with the 20psi in the tyres jobbie, I think that made all the difference between his 14.3's and then his 13.8. I'll be buying a small tyre pressure thingy and maybe a portable pump so I can pump the tyres back up. Rob

But almost everyone told me I needed more HP, from a SAFC or an new ecu, or a bigger turbo and front mount. I distinctly remember adam32 saying that I would need a SAFC. All I've changed is the clutch and tyres. So it goes to show that as dave (rev210) said you CAN run a 13.8 in a r33 with minimal mods. He's spent a lot less than me and he ran a quicker time. Rob

Well rev210 has run a 13.8 with a simular setup to mine. exhaust and a bit more boost. Hes even done it with the shitty stock clutch and 205 tyres.... so should I break out the bullshit now or later for all you naysayers??? He can obviously drive better than most of us, I could only manage a 14.11 on the night with my new clutch and 225 tyres. Rob

14.11 @ 102mph. So all the naysayers out there can relax for a bit, I still havent cracked the 13.7 on my current power level, but I'm sure I'll get damn close. Again only 4 runs, some guy decided he didnt like his lane and went for a closer look in the other lane and then the concrete barrier, he's ok... dunno about his car. For the naysayers, I'm sure you will *enjoy* daves (aka. rev210) post... ready to eat that shit that was so called coming from me about running 13's without anything more than a bit of boost? *snicker* Rob

If you guys want to use speedworks let me know and I will organise it with ivan. PSI is up joondalup way, speedworks is now in osborne park, so its probably more central. BTW: I didnt start the bitching about workshops, my 2cents worth. I just find it frustrating when providing a solution for people and they bitch about it. Rob

When my R33 arrived from japan and I drove it here during the compliance process I got vibration from the tailshaft. All 3 of my uni joints in the tailshaft were stuffed. There is a place in osborne park (driveshaft/tailshaft balancing??? I think, they are on collingwood st) anyway set me back around $360 give or take for parts and labour. Car drives beautifully to 180km/hr now Rob

Geez you guys are f*ckwits. I went through all of this when I posted the tread about prefered workshops. If anyone has had a bad experience (other than price related) with speedworks PM me. I've had bad experiences and talked to a fair few people that have also had bad experiences with workshops mentioned here before (no name naming). The *only* place I will take my car is speedworks. I'm sure the fact that these guys are in the process of building one of the fastest GTR's in Perth means they *may* have a little bit of experience with the dyno... ya reckon? BTW: the only tweak you can do on the dyno is probably add a slight advance to the timing of the car through the crank angle sensor, it'll add a couple of KW's. Its not really recommended cos if you are still running stock ecu and stock intercooler if you are fanging it on a hot day (which you shouldnt with stock intercooler) you could get detonation. Rob