rob77

You'd have to speak to them to get an idea, but I get them to put mobil 1 in my car and thats what they recommend. just tell them I sent you (speak to ivan or john) and they'll look after you. Rob

Bit far? *shrug* subi is pretty central, give them a go though work is top rate and second to none. Rob

Ok, you guys wanted to know. I use Speedworks as my prefered workshop, I've used them quite a few times for bits and pieces as well as general servicing (oil change, etc) and I'm more than happy with their work and knowledge. They've tuned some pretty powerful beasts, have a look at: http://www.speedworksauto.com.au Recently they did my boost gauge and boost controller as well, in the near future they'll be doing my trust front mount cooler and probably a greddy e-manage ecu. In the distant future a trust turbo, trust 550cc injectors and a larger fuel pump to suit. They're more than happy for any of you forum members to drop in and talk shop as well as your work as required, when you do drop in mention that I sent you (rob with the black r33 skyline) and they'll extend to you the same level of service. They have huge amounts of knowledge, one of their most recent beasts is a 11.7 second quarter mile R34 GTR and it was still not tuned completely. Anyway, I'll think you'll find they are quite serious about their work and are one of the more reliable places around. Rob

I bought a dual gauge pillar mount from japanese motorsport around the $120 mark and I also picked up a 2nd hand HKS boost gauge for around the same dollars had them both fitted up by the guys who did my boost controller at the same time. So there wasnt really much fabricating but the boost gauge is much more accurate than the stock one. If you were at the drags you would have seen a sticker on the back of my car denoting my tuning shop of choice Rob

Well on my way home from indoor cricket I got onto reid hwy coming home and sure enough the car pulled hard to 6500rpm through 1st/2nd and 3rd, with the boost set to 0.8bar. The only difference from tonight and sunday was the ambient temperature, maybe my stock intercooler is full of crap and needs flushing or cleaning, should try and have a look. Rob

Yeah, well I didnt tune the boost controller. Anyway, a larger front mount cooler will fix the problem and a new ecu wont hurt either. Rob

Adam32 read my post, I run 0.8bar of boost and it's fine at night, the car pulls hard all the way to the 7200rpm limiter, but for some reason today be it heatsoak or something else is ****ed in the car, it was loosing power if I went past 5500rpm. I'm sure if I went out now and took it for a drive, it'd pull fine to 7200rpm. *shrug* beats me, everytime I go to the drags something ****s up. Rob

Yup, black r33 stock rims and body, nice 3.25" cat back system with the muffler on a angle and a tip big enough to stick your head in The only other mods are a blitz air filter element, apexi twin chamber bov (which I'm thinking of ditching cos I think its causing my problems), blitz dual sbc type s boost controller. I was hoping on at least a low 14, possibly a high 13, but the gremlins re-appeared. My terminal speed was 96.05mph or 154.57kmh at 0.6bar, so with a stronger clutch and harder launch, I dont see why I cant run a low 14 at least. Rob

Well I didnt have much luck. With the warmer weather and the stock intercooler I couldnt run 0.8bar of boost effectively. My fastest run of the day netted me the same result from my last day at the drags another 14.8 with the boost turned down to 0.6bar. Time to browse the Trust catalogue for a better intercooler and some sort of new engine management I think. The car was launching much better with the lock kit though, its a bit annoying though as I know the car is quicker because at night when its much colder at 0.8bar the car pulls strongly to 6500rpm, today with 0.8bar I had to keep shifting between 5500 and 6000rpm because the power was tailing off... damn heat! Either that or my car's a lemon Rob

Well, definately getting pinging on 0.8bar of boost, not all the time probably only about 1% of the time I floor it, but still it isnt good. So I'll coax it down the 1/4 with a good top up of octane booster and see if I can break a high 13, but I wont be pushing too hard. Might have to find a front mount quick Rob

I agree, I intend on getting a bodykit in the future and I want someone decent to paint it and fit it, I dont want a half assed job or to be ripped a new one. Rob

well, it took my mate about 30 mins to do one side and then he worked out the easy way and it took like 15 mins to do the other side. I'm one of those people that doesnt know a great deal about what I'm doing (plus I dont have the tools he has). Anyway, took about 45 mins or so all up. Its quite straight forward, if you want some help let me know as I know exactly how it hooks up. Been driving around a bit tonight and it seems to axel hop (I think) when driving straight and putting the foot down. Took a sharp left hand corner and I really had to try hard to get the tail out, very scary ****, so its definately holding the road better, next would be the coil-overs if you want serious all round handling, but my cars primarily for the drags and straight line power. I think I'm also getting a little bit of detonation running 0.8bar, either that or something is loose in my engine bay and making a rattling noise... might have to go back to 0.6bar *sigh* anyway, I'll run it down the drags on 0.8bar and see if I can get into the 13's, then start saving for a big **** off money style front mount cooler Rob

Well I just got the KCA349 parts fitted for maximum traction (not drift ) and I must say I give it the big thumbs up. Definately getting more traction on takeoff and cornering (rear end seems much stiffer) which is all good when you've got 0.8bar running through the turbo (the back end was getting too tail happy). So if its dry on sunday and cool I'll be down there trying to get into the high 13's. Rob

I'll be there on the provision it will be cold and dry. I dont think I'll have time to put that whiteline kit in though. One of my mates is gonna come to if his car is ready. Rob

Dave, whats it called? a squating kit for a r33 skyline? I'll order one on monday. Rob

Hey dave, where did you get your suspension parts from and did you fit them yourself? Rob

Nope, I'm tired of people argueing about who the best tuning shops are and who are crap and use sub standard methods, plus I dont like naming names as a couple of years ago I almost got taken to court for a post on hotcopper.com about the company I was working for. My suggestion is look at what projects they have built or had a hand in. Rob

I'd rather not say because I dont want to get into the arguements of whose a better tuning house and who isnt. I've been to 3 tuning places and I'm very happy with this one. My suggestion is to try a few out. Rob

I've got a blitz dual SBC spec S. Low is 0.6bar and high is 0.8bar, been tuned by one of the best in the business (imho) and I havent had any detonation or pinging, but its also a lot colder than summer, so I'll be reverting to 0.6bar (I think stock is 0.5bar anyway) when summer rolls around and when I can afford it I'll pop in a front mount i/c

Count me in, so long as its fine and cold. Just had a boost controller put in and I want to improve on my 14.82 I set last-time (completely stock, cept for a 3.25" cat back system). I'm hoping for a very low 14 or high 13 with the extra boost. Rob

Well, I'm getting a greddy profec b fitted this week and I'm going to play with the boost a little (probably leave the low setting at 7psi and set the high to 10psi) and see what happens. If problems persist when I fit a front mount intercooler and change the piping I'll leave the apexi off, hopefuly more boost will fix the problem more boost more boost! As for the cruise, I'm not a huge fan of cruises, especially all the stories I hear about the rollaboy cruises, I dont like being around a heap of moderately to highly modified cars on the road drawing attention to themselves as I dont want a yellow sticker or some tool to do something stupid and put me in a situation where my car is damaged. I only came along cos Gus was pestering me as I missed one earlier this year, but I dont think I'll be attending anymore. I had more fun taking the car down the drags... I'll be doing that again as soon as I drop the new intercooler in, turbo to cat pipe, high flow cat and I wind the boost up to 14psi (if possible) I'm hoping for mid 13's, the car ran a 14.82 with only a cat back system and the problems I mentioned in the first post, couldnt get the launch right either. Rob

I've done that. I went to bunnings and bought a reticulation part that fitted into the large pipe off the std bov (I did mention in my original post that I had done this already) and use the hose clamp to secure it in place so that I wasnt losing any air and that the airflow would be right... either way I think atmo BOV's on AFM cars are a waste of time, sure the noise is nice, but at the end of the day if it means a power loss I'd rather have the std bov. When I replace my intercooler and I re-do the piping I'm going to leave the apexi off and reconnect the std bov and see what happens, in that case I'll have an apexi bov for sale... any takers? btw: that cruise you organised adam was pretty average to say the least, sorry but I'm being honest. Rob

Anyone ever had any problems after blocking off the std BOV and plumbing in a atmo bov on a r33 skyline? There's been a small but noticable loss of power from when boost comes on through to the rev limiter and sometimes I cant even get to the rev limiter. Not all the time but occasionaly the car will get to somewhere between 6000-7000rpm and the engine wont rev anymore and the engine will start to retard and I have to shift to the next gear before it'll go anywhere. To start with the original BOV was left connected as well as the new apexi twin chamber bov and this was causing problems with the AFM, since then I've blocked off the std one and the pipe that returns the air back to the intake, but its still down on power... any ideas? or anyone else have a simular problem? I'm sure the BOV is stuffing up the AFM, as pretty much everything has been checked, the only other thing maybe the fuel pump, but there arnt any other problems (not stalling, or missing). Any help appreciated. Rob