R33GTRKid

found a cracked IC pipe, IC 2x in and 2x out hardpipe kit going in and final tune on Thursday, plex next Wednesday, see if I can build a partition on long weekend too

your post and Steve's comments made me order one today also! fingers crossed I get the good clamps too!

I have the exact opposite problem, replaced stock with hks twin max and point is too high! Be interested in replies

have you got the steering column surround? If so can you take some photos of the top and the sides of it please. If in good nick, would you take $50 posted to 6000?

so spewing i missed this, bloody rotto swim

I am after the snorkel if u want to split under stand u might not tho, if keen I'll give 50 plus post mate

But the VIN indicates it is not an N1 so why the ongoing debate about engine numbers - did you buy on a representation it was an N1? if so - Trade Practices Act

33 GTR snorkel by any chance, or steering column plastic surround?

panel shop I used charged $300 to take roof panel back to almost bear metal, prime, paint, clear, polish

pics or ban of the sunburn

BUMP someone please

i have one taken out of my R33 with 50,000 kms on it, Xspeed said it is absolutely perfect, you can have it for 150 plus shipping, flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate.

i have a set from my 06 z but they are coilovers not springs by the looks

mate I have someone from PerthStreetBikes that may be interested http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f20/...ace-live-77893/ SMOKIN HOT too!

what do the air diversion thingos do, I am interested if they divert air to the pods

nice one, ill go the boost leak test asap and thanks Nismo 86, I do not think there is any hole on mine where yours has one, but will check it out and see what I can make, I must admit, it seems the obvious way of doing it.

what does 'laying over in the deep end mean'? not running hard in the latter stages of the 1/4? actually now that you mention it, I was feeling a slight dead spot after the changes, like it went off boost completely and hesitated slightly (maybe half to one second) and then came back on so maybe I do have another leak somewhere. Does that boost leak test work for a twin? I have the HKS racing chamber kit which replaces silicon from turbos to intercooler with hard piping but in saying that something else on that side may have given. I know that I have replaced all the clamps on the intercooler hoses as the bottom left one kept letting go and they are now holding good, which means other sections may have loosened. The last few days I have also noticed a louder slightly different from usual intake/spool noise coming from the left side when I drove with windows down in a narrow street so I could be that on the strip I cracked a pipe or something and it is only a slight leak because I was still hitting about 15 psi. I also noticed this weekend that my boost seems to be coming on a little later, maybe 500rpm or so, so that is all now making me think there is a boost leak somewhere

it could be one of the 'cold region' GTR's. My 33 was one also (it actually said it in the FAST details), and I needed to change the thermostat and it brought it right down to running normal at between 78 and 82 degrees, on a fang, up to 85 degrees water. Not sure about the oil at the moment as my apexi gauge is playing up and reading like 120 to 140 at the moment, but when working properly I never saw it over 90ish. The dash gauge sits at roughly 80 to 90 all the time but does move. (I know the Apexi is messing around because it hits 60 straight away upon start up and about 120 within 5 mins of driving where as the dash gauge has just started to move at that point)

nah she was planted, just shifted into 4th. 60: 1.805 330 5.077 660 7.905 at 141.08kph 1000: 10.295 1/4: 12.346 at 110.02 mph or 177.06kph

I am pretty sure as follows: -5's 350hp, -7's 280hp, (maybe 300hp) -9's 300hp (maybe 320hp) -10's 400hp

AS per title, please post up pic of said snorkel you want to sell me

Ash, I was saying on a stock bottom end motor, it would not be safe to push 350rwkw from SS's, not that it cannot be done. I have left that point alone for some time now. I am just racking my brains trying to work out why the car has 380 - 383 rwhp (two separate dynos confirm), I drove a pretty much flawless 1/4 and she only ran a 12.3 at 111 MPH (albeit the 60' at 1.82 seconds indicates the launch could have been better but I was running 18 265's and into a 24 kph headwind). Many on here have suggested the trap speed indicates down on power, so I am trying to work out why, I thought the exposed pods and extended idling time while waiting to stage and run could have caused a reduction in power, hence me asking about the intake temps. Can someone tell me how a CAI is installed on the 33 GTR. Looking at my front bar, where the left hand indicator is, there is a section of the plastic 'bar' type set up that is missing and a plastic channel/tube runs from there but I cannot work out where it runs to, but it definitely does not seem to outlet into the area of the engine bay where the pods are. I will try to meet up with Rev210 to see how this can be improved BEFORE I go back to xspeed for the power tune. Hopefully at the end of the day, once all this CAI and partition stuff is done, the car is tuned, I can run a low 11 at about 125ish MPH and all will be sorted and power matching trap speed (wishful thinking??)

the only other thing I can think of then is a boost leak - on the dyno it hits 17psi at about 4,200 and holds to about 5,000 then tapers down to 15 and holds steady. At the drags I did not see any higher than 15.5 at all. So if 17psi was the 283rwkw, I guess the lower PSI (possible boost leak after tune) then explain the 110MPH trap speed? what is involved in a proper workshop boost leak test - I mean getting told 'it will take a couple of hours of looking around the pipes' does not seem to be a very scientific way of doing it - I though you blocked off the turbo intake pipes or something and then pressure test the system using some form of tool?

yeah my knock never goes over 25 ever, actually 24 IIRC. I might get the cooler pressure checked to see what it is doing, it is the standard 33 GTR one. I am just trying to explain the difference between power and trap speed. Factors slowing(/reducing power?) trap speed were 18 inch 265's, heading into a 13 knot head wind (direct head wind) and an ambient temp of about 30 degrees, 50%ish humidity.

Hey I have been thinking with the discussions recently about my trap speeds not matching my dynoed power levels properly (380rwhp v 111MPH on a 12.3). I have exposed M-pods with no shield or snorkel. Recently I have been watching my hand controller and my average intake temps are about 50 degrees, however when I sit at the traffic lights for anything more than a few seconds, this goes up to about 55 degrees and takes a few minutes of driving for them to come back down again. Given the long staging at the drags it is likely that my intake temps when the light went green were at least 55 degrees. Is this hot? would this be robbing power? If I enclose the pods using the methods on here, how do I get cold air into there? do people here modify the stock snorkel for it to push cold air into the enclosed area? What about the hole in the passenger side front guard where the stock airbox usually slots into, at the moment there is a black plastic thing that sits in the hole but it completely seals it? I know on my front bar next to the passenger indicator in the lower section, the slotted black plastic has been removed but I cannot see where the air would flow to? Any input re the best way to do this will be greatly appreciated as I have spent a shit load of money on the car and I want to perfect the set up before I spend more money on dyno time. Thanks in advance fellas