R33GTRKid

actually can that, I just scored 4 x RE01R's (last 4 in the country apparently) for $1500 fitted, I am over the friggin moon

are they the RE55S's?

I am calling and calling. These are street legal yes? I have 4 x 265/35/18 RE01R's at the moment and the front 2 are up for replacing, will it be okay to replace with the 55's? If so, how much for 2 posted to WA? If not, can you let me know full set of 4 to WA

Ash, the point is the tuners over here are not willing to run the turbos on the limits of their capabilities and risk blowing shit up! Hence why I said 300 to 330 RWKW from GTSS's is pushing too much and asking for trouble, thus I would go the -5's if I wanted 300 plus RWKW. At the end of the day, what you are saying is stupid and akin to me saying, yes my RB26 can rev to 10,000 rpm, but for how long!

have you got the steering column surround?

well I have no idea, would appreciate GT's comments and anyone elses' for that matter here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...tml&hl=dyno

well all I can say is that one of the most experienced tuners in WA disagrees with you Nismoid and I have spoken with three other shops over here and had the same response that 400rwhp is about max for GTSS's but you obviously must know better. Oh and HKS rate the GTSS at 280hp each which makes them 560 combined! Yes I have read the rb26 dyno post, I have posted in it. I have also posted up my dyno results after expecting the world (you were one of the pro GTSS's) from the GTSS's, spending a shit load of money and only getting 390 rwhp and asking for help as to what could be the issue to cause a lower than expected (after listening to you and others in the rb26 dyno thread). I got 2 replies, maybe you could have a look over them and shed some of your allknowing light into the thread, if you search dyno result posted by my username it should come right up. What all three workshops over here have said is that dont listen to all these blokes quoting higher than 400 rwhp figures on dynos that are likely to be out by at least 10%. 250rwkw at 12 psi is not unusual, it is 350hp which is what I am also getting at about 12 psi, it is just after that you are not getting much more and they are just too small to hold much more than 15psi through the higher rev ranges (or at least that is what I have been told x 3 by x 3 different workshops here). I did say anything more than 400rwhp and you have to run 20 psi plus which is out of their efficiency range - I dont know if I would be putting 22psi through GTSS's (which will be running pretty damn hot) over a stock RB26 bottom end, which is where I was talking about it being dangerous. At the end of the day, all I can go on is my experience with my car and my mods which is what I said I was referring to along with three of the most reputable (including possible the most) rb26 tuners in WA saying the same thing. 400rwhp is approx max for a safe tune on a RB26 running GTSS'. I wish I had gone the 2530's (-5's) because I would not be still waiting for the top end rush that does not come with the GTSS's, yes they are fun to drive, yes they are very responsive on the street, yes they are fun on the track also, but they do not give me the punch I was hoping for and certainly no where near the 330rwkw everyone else is talking about. 2 over here have tuned it now and I am going to try a third next week to see if we can go any further. Both so far have performed leakdown and compression tests and they came back perfect. You say my supporting mods are unnecessary, I call them insurance to allow the motor to perform with less stress but still no 330rwkw, in fact I am not even on 300 rwkw but you know best!@

BUMP open to ridiculous offers just to move this stuff now

send an email to Henry at RMS motorsports

the xr6t running 300 rwkw will KILL a skyline even if the skyline had close to 400rwhp

I disagree, I have SS's (9's) which are slightly bigger than 7's and smaller than 5's. I am spewing I went with the SS's. 400 rwhp (true hp on X-speed's dyno) is about the max from these things and I have all the supporting mods (everything!!) Go the 5's, the lag will not be noticeable you will be fully on by 4,500 and let's face it, are you ever really going to be squirting below that anyway? at least with 5's it leaves you with plenty to go later on if you so choose (which you know you will) 5's all the way, or alternatively, buy the 5's and ill swap you my 500 km old SS's (installed new by X-speed and only running 17psi) plus $500

take it from me as gospel, PLEASE GO THE 5's PLEASE. I was umming and ahhhing and was told to go the SS's and they would be good for 450 rwhp BUULLLLLLLLLLSSSSSHHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTT any more than 400 rwhp (on a proper dynodynamics not a hub dyno!!) and the GTSS's are out of their efficiency range and you are having to run 20 plus PSI. I have all the supporting mods, cams, dumps, full turbo back exhaust (Mines stainless front pro, decat and kakimoto mega N1 rear), tomei manifolds, evc, djetro, Sard 700's, HKS fuel pump and AFR etc etc etc and 400 rwhp on x-speed's dyno is about it. My motor is new as too. GO THE 5's, the lag??? psssttt you are talking about 500 rpm MAX, my SS's hit full boost by 4,000 rpm, the 5's would be on by 4,500 max and probably still pushing more power at 4,000 even at a lower boost, so go the 5's. A decent tuner will be able to minimise lag by properly dialing in the cams anyway. All this bullshit about SS's are good for 330rwkw (465 hp) is just that IMHO and if you got that much out of them it would be a time bomb. The only way to truly tell is to put all turbos on the same dyno under the same conditions but I doubt very much a true reading dyno would show anywhere over 300rwkw for the SS's. GO THE 5's, otherwise, buy the 5's, ill swap you my 500km old SS's and give you $500

umm bush bloody lawyers, actually there is a binding contract for the sale of his vehicle, there has been an offer and acceptance, consideration in the form of a deposit and his conduct now constitutes repudiation of a contract. You have 2 choices, you either: 1. elect to accept the repudiation and sue for damages, ie the deposit, your flights, any other out of pocket expenses and the loss of the value of the car (measured in what you would have got if you bought that car verses what you will have to pay elsewhere to get the same car); or 2. refuse to accept his repudiation and insist on specific performance of the contract. In the case of 1, he has offered to reimburse you your deposit and other costs, which is essentially paying you any damages you have suffered and if he comes through on that offer, aside from not having the car, you are pretty much in the same position that you were prior to the contract.

hey people was good to meet some of you at the beginning, I ran like a chicken after that dood hit the pole I was expecting a considerable amount of unwanted attention to arrive very shortly after he did that and assume we were part of it all and give us a hard time. After working like a biatch to get the front bar off to refit the hose and make it down there for 8.30 I was spewin when that tool did that. Hopefully next time ill actually go on the cruise!

$125 for the slave that you have no further use?

Chasing a R33 GTR snorkel to flow some cold air at my pods. If anyone has a partition that will suit 33 GTR without AFM's but with fat M's pods, would be keen on paying for a copy of the mould.....

shit man, based on you telling me my 34 had steel wheels, I cranked the boost to 437PSI and all of a sudden something went bang including my motor from this pottery looking dust....? WTF Doooddddd haha jokes man, good on ya for standing up to it, and bloody garrett, sheesh.....

there is no way you could spend only $4.5k on a VE SS and run 10's. I just sold a LS2 ute, spent $6.5 k on it, for extractors, race cats, full custom stainless twin rear, cams and tune and the thing was only putting down 270RWKW, no way that is going to push 1800 kgs to 10's. You would need a supercharger on any unopened V8 to get it below high 11's and I have had heaps of goes with various v8's. IMHO, there is only one car I would go beyond a GTR and that is an F6 - with a change of cats, cat back system, injectors, pump, filters and tune (about $5k all up), you can run high 10's and the rest of the car will cope with it! My cousin has done it with his BF II, cost him $4,790 and 10.91 seconds

the intake piping for the R33 GTR, is that from turbos to AFM or the 2x intercooler inlet piping? will you do just the snorkel for $20? I want it for a 33GTR to send some cool air to my pods and fashion it into a partition I am making but understand they are similar

pics of the steering column and ignition surround mate? or was that next mOnday 26th?

dood that sucks you only just bought that car didnt you??? Speak with Dirt Garage, he was quoting $7k odd from memory for a rebuild, although on top of that would be R&R and freight. Just check the parts your tuner/quote includes verses the quality of what Paul was offering, but over here $10k would be well cheap for parts and labour on a full rebuild.

I HAVE A SERIES 3 R33 GTR

If I can get my IC inlet pipe back on after work tomorrow in time to get the meet point, Ill be there

GT: it has the HKS heavy duty actuators that came in the GTSS kit, I did not think you could get any more stronger than that. The tune cost me about 4 hours worth of time

I have put up a while back in the RB26 turbo thread however rather than tie that thread up with chit chat, I am posting up the graphs here and am seeking some feedback. The mods of note are: GTSS kit HKS extension kit (dumps) Tomei manifold PFC d'jetro M's intakes HKS racing chamber kit Tomei poncams type B plus adjustable gears Sard 700's HKS fuel pump, Nismo AFR EVC6 mines stainless front, race cat (VERY high flowing lol), Kakimoto full mega N1 cat back Couple of things: 1. I am not sure what revs each of the speeds along the bottom represent, but it was in fourth gear and obviously where it drops off just over 215ish is obviously 8,000 rpm. 2. so it looks like it is hitting mac boost of 17 psi at about 3,500 odd rpm (never does this on the road). 3. Even tho the EVC is set on high at 18.1 psi, it never gets there, max I have seen is 17.2 psi, why would this be? Any other comments are welcomed! Dyno1.pdf dyno2.pdf thanks peoples