cmoney

Sold to me, cheers dude.

Replacement has been sold, so the car is no longer officially advertised for sale. Any1 interested is still welcome to contact me, but the car will most likely be mine for a few years now. Cheers

Check the AFM man, i had similar symptoms (all be it heaps worse), where not even related to bumps the car would cut out while cruising, & be on & off on its own. Purely the AFM in my case. The green sticker 1s seem to die after a period of time, i actually had mine converted to a series 2 R33 pink label job this morning. PM me if you want details. Its not too far from my place. Cheers

*Update on mine* I thought i had the problem fixed, but good old Murphy popped his head up. Whatever i do seems to fix the problem for a few days, then she stuffs up again. So far, intercooler pipe leaks have been fixed. Power is definitely better, but still playing up. Cleaned & replaced AAC valve, made it better, but still doing it. Cleaned AFM, worked for a day or 2 each time, then back to it again. Changed plugs to NGK iridium, no real difference. Runs cleaner, but no idle difference. Cleaned throttle body of gunk & some intercooler pipes, still the same. Today i will be pulling the battery & allowing the car to sit, before replacing it with a good 1. Hopefully to reset the ECU, & see if this helps at all. Soon, once stock arrives, i'll also be replacing the AFM to see if its faulty. The problem i may be having is, the Mircotech i have is a piggyback. As far as i've been informed by the tuning shop, it controls Ignition & Fuel. The standard ECU still has control of idle, with all air sensors connected to it. If the problem is still there once the AFM is replaced, im going to rip the Microtech out & fit a new board to the standard ECU to allow that to be tuned. See if i can isolate the problem if its still there. The main thing, the car runs well up to operating temp, & even for a while after. Its usually after 30 mins of driving or so, it starts to stuff up. That makes me lean towards the AFM or computer, but time will tell. I'll keep you posted, in the mean time, good luck getting yours sorted.

Come on guys, car NEEDS to sell. Ive found the replacement i wanna buy, & i need money. Anyone whos half interested, PM me....

***PRICE DROP*** Car is now $12,400 for anyone associated with SAU. Price is also still negotiable, OPEN TO OFFERS. PM me with any questions/offers. Cheers!!!

PRICE IS MOST DEFINITELY NEGOTIABLE!!!

Make: Nissan Model: R32 GTS-T Milage: 145xxx Transmission: 5 speed Manual Colour: Wine Red Location: Western Sydney Complied? Yes RWC supplied? n/a Currently registered? Yes, until mid next year Price: $12,750 neg for SAU members (advertised at $13,500 for general sale) Contact: [email protected], 0407 896 339 (please message due to work commitments, cheers) Comments / Modifications: 1992 R32, RB20DET, Blitz BOV, Blitz front mount, turbosmart dual stage boost controller, Microtech LT8 piggyback computer, 17" gold lenzos, near new nankang tires (235/45/17) all round, Greddy boost gauge, 3 3/4" tacho with shift light, HKS turbo timer, 3" exhaust all the way through, slotted front rotors, oil catch can, iridium plugs, 3 stage alarm/immobiliser with auto window lift, cd player, optional set of 18" white 5 spoke rims with car at extra cost (negotiable also), new K&N air filter in standard box (legal), plumbed back BOV (legal), lowered springs (legal), xenon copy headlight bulbs (2 sets plus originals), strut brace, polished intercooler piping, new drive belts, replaced power steering pump, oil changed every 4000km-5000km without fail, only use 5W40. Car is in great condition all round, & except for a minor scratch on the front bumper due to stupidity (& not running over a kid i should have!!!), the paint is also in very good condition. All original factory colour, neat & tidy unit. If you would like any more info, please contact me. No test pilots please, i have tried to maintain this car as well as i could, serious investors appreciated. PS: other than checking the tires & rego at RBT's (which are both fine), the cops have never given me any trouble in this car. Cheers Images:

Maybe try checking your connections on your intercooler pipes. Ive got an RB20, & some of my connections were shit. The pipes are too short & the silicone pipes weren't sealing properly. I've had to put the clamps right on the end of the pipes really tight to stop the leaks. My idle was hunting all over the place, now its hardly missed a beat. May only be an RB20 problem, but i would tend to assume its a Nissan forced induction problem in general. Hope this helps....

Yeah, thats a good place to try just in case. Mine looked fine from the top, but i found my leak was out the bottom where i couldn't actually see, nor could i feel the leak. I just made sure the clamps were definitely over the ends of all the hoses & sealing properly. Even on 18psi there's no leaks or dramas that i can find. I have a question though. Where is the PCV valve....?? Ive looked but cant find it.

Have you got just the power steering pump, or did it go with the motor?? Im looking for a direct replacement for mine. If so, could you PM me. Cheers.

Have you checked/replaced the PCV valve &/or hose?? From the list, that seems to be about the only thing i saw missing. Mine only stalled when i turned the aircon on a few times cos it had been sitting for 3 months or so before i bought it. Now she runs fine. I would definitely pull most intercooler hose connections & check them for condition. Then pay close attention when you put them back to ensure they are done well & tight. My cooler pipes seem to be good quality, however some are a little short &/or at the wrong angle, so i have had to put some clamps right on the end of the silicone joiners to ensure there are no leaks. It was clear before that a few of the joiners were half off the pipes they were supposed to be joining. I made sure i tightened them right up as well, as i am thinking of putting an RB25 in sometime, i will need a new cooler & pipes anyway so im not too worried about overdoing it slightly. As soon as i had the connections done, she was going fine. I have since wound my BOV back out to dump air & make a fair bit of noise, & there hasnt been a single glitch since. Have you checked ur turbo itself?? From my line of thinking, the engine idling higher would be to build boost in the system. If the turbo has shit itself & isnt building boost, the engine is revving & not getting anywhere. You seem to be making the power, so i wouldnt think so, but just in case.

Hey Mick. Got mine sorted. Turned out to be none other than shit connections on the intercooler pipes. They were allowing boost to escape & stuffing the idle. Once i fixed these up, my problem has disappeared, & power has also risen up the top end noticably. No dyno readings, just the feeling when driving it. Hope this helps ur cause. For any1 reading, wtb R32 power steering pump. Mine seems to have shit itself....

Hey Mick. I have an R32 also with the same problem. I haven't found a solid solution to this yet, but i do have a Microtech computer in mine as a piggy back unit on the standard computer, & as far as i can tell this has nothing to do with the problem. From what i can gather, i think it could be a vaccun leak problem. I have been advised by a few people of this, but its going for a proper check this weekend in preparation for a full dyno tune. Mine is also running rich, im not sure how yours is doing, but mine is definitely running very rich at idle & low revs. Even high boost seems to be a little rich. I will advise further once i have a solid diagnosis, & hopefully a solution to the problem. Mine doesnt tend to do it quite so badly with the cold weather atm, but its still all over the place. I will have the turbo & fuel pump & injectors replaced with larger items before the tune anyway in preparation for slightly higher boost, & so i dont blow the standard turbo. Heres a list of specs in the mean time for comparison: Microtech LT8 computer Dual stage boost (12psi & 18psi setting until dyno tune, then hopefully 12psi & 20psi) Blitz front mount Standard turbo & fuel system (soon to be replaced with KKR430 turbo) 3" exhaust all the way through Blitz BOV Slotted rotors & high performance pads Urethane suspension rubbers Lowered 17" Gold 5 Spoke Lenzos