lachlanw

hicas is rear wheel steering . it only works above 80 kph . some people like some dont . a lot of poeple dont like it for the wrong reasons dont put a gtr badge on it . everyone will give you shit like major shit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HICAS

is it not just a piece of alloy bar with a hole drilled near each end?

its nissan . they are lazy as f**k , all the skyline and silvia ranges only have two different sized castor bushes and they are so close you can get away with using either

this is like someone telling which wheels to buy go read the dyno results tread

check ecu error codes you sure your ckecking the timing properly ?

lol at "cracked manifold" pics or ban

that grille is good looking lol at lambo doors . do you get them for the back doors too ? what a joke

because this hasnt been covered a million times before i vote any new topic with r33 and boost in it be rejected

what do you want to know take the front bumper off put fmi on only real bit that is any effort is finding where to cut the hole mount the core where its going then measure the drivers side pipe from the centre of the outlet on the core

do you really need someone to answer that? it will fit in the same way a 5 stud wheel will fit on a 4 stud hub if you leave one nut off

how cold it very cold? do you have a real boost gauge ? or the factory waste of space on the dash that happens to resemble a boost gauge? its gonna make the ecu see more air/denser charge and send it into slack timing look at this picture and youll see what and why . it runs something around 20-17 then chops it back to like 6 then back up to 14 ish

f**k the ends on it look nice . i see it has some genuine japlish on the sticker too

does boost gauge sit on 0 or where it is in the photo

a stock 33 turbo is still ceramic .....

^ yes it is that simple no the ecu doesnt have differeent triggers . i wired a waster spark and an ignitor to a series 2 and its been goin hard as a daily thrasher for about 18 months

yes

FMIC as in title yeah it should fit alright

whats your point?

lol . you would only get 5 for that in nz

even with no pressure in the line the clutch plates are still sliding against each other it you are dyno tuning it in 4th gear the rear shaft is doing 0 to 7500 rpm all day and the front shaft is doing none and the clutch has 15 plates sliding against each other . its gonna get hell hot . it might not f**k it but it will not be helpin git at all . for the effort of dropping the front shaft i dont consider it not worht doing

$175 ha ha what a f**kin crock . costs $3 in NZ

yeah couldnt remember if you had to start it or not . i always did . lsd works really well in my car driving on the road in 2wd isnt gonna worry it . DO NOT DO THIS TO DYNO TUNE IT ON A 2WD DYNO DROP THE FRONT SHAFT . IT IS 4 BOLTS AND TEN MINUTES i dont know bout the preload . the front wheels will still turn on the hoist . well mine did . i didnt bother to undo the nipple to see if it made any difference

lol at 5 degrees

only car to ever come out with a fatter rear sway bar than front one

yeah i realised ive prolly re started a war . if anyone wants a war i will not reply yeah i like the green wire under the dash . its a single wire with a green block connector . in the location of the hood release lever bracket . might have a look first go . i can do it from the drivers seat now . turn car off . unplug wire . turn car on and pump brake pedal 5 times in 10 seconds . "4wd" light will start flashing =2wd and abs seperates front from rear . if you dont pump the brakes the light is on solid and this is for bleeding the attessa line (assuming it makes pump go fully so you could replace fluid by bleeding it out the nipple ??) turn car off and plug wire back in when finished i enjoy it when i wanna give it a launch or a bit of extra tail happy