lachlanw

you can see a "pool" well a drip forming on the machined surface below where the drive shaft bolts to diff flange . doesnt seem to be as much oil anywhere else ????

get a pressure gauge. when its not keeping the pressure up then you need a new pump

surepy its just a 3 mm allen key like everything else . go to a metal stock shop . you should be able to but some brass or steel in any size hex you want . failing that just try all the adjutsters out of your mates shocks . its not like its a high torque aplication so you canr really damage anything

to lock your hicas just put a washer on either end of the rack . need about 2 mm either side BNT in chch nz quoted me 380+ for standard clutch and 660+ for heavy duty coushined button for my rs four s for Xtreme brand

all this time i have been talking about the temperature in the bottom tank of the radiator which is important in fan function you have been talking about engine temperature . which is really a delayed (and possible expensive ) way to tell you the radiator is not getting enough airflow and not cooling the water enough so your engine over heats agree to disagree?

the fan needs to come on before the water temperature in the RADIATOR is near the temperature that the thermo stat is set at the engine and the radiator are two seperate systems the engine only over heats when the radiator is not doing its job. clearly you do not under stand the fans job is to move air through the radiator when there is not enough air flowing through it naturally or does it have another job in your all knowing world?? how do you know if the radiator is not getting anough air ? it heat soaks and the bottom tank approaches the same temerature as the top tank ( which is full of water that just passed through an 82 degree thermostat) humour me and disconnect your key board while your brain is trying to work

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vl...=rb+water+pumps post #4

your r33 will need the same one your stagea needs . its the same engine .......

and obvoiusly no fan is going to be on before the engine is up to temperature . making that piont null and void

its doesnt matter what the f**k your thermo stat is doing . the job of the fan is to move air through the radiator when there is not enough air moving through it . if the water in the bottom of the radiator is approaching engine operating temperature the the radiator is not doing its job properly , oh what to do ? turn on the f**kin fan . and yes put a overide switch in it . or even better hook it to the factory fan wire that comes on when the ac is on or the engine is too hot the ultimate is 2 speed fans . one speed wired to thermo switch in bottom of radiator other speed wired to factory fan switch so comes on with ac and engine over heat . so either causes half fan and worse case scenario is full noise and put an overide switch

massive fail . http://www.hksusa.com/faq/?ID=1647

you sure its plumbed up right ? and you didnt use the factory hose with the restrictor in it did you ? what are you using for a pressure source

pcv is just a one way valve . pull it out and make sure it is working properly . simple

how many volts is it boosting now?

yeah either remove it all together (pull valve out of rockercover and put a bung in it , cap the nipple on the plenum ) or block the line if it stil has to look legal . doesnt have to in NZ all the pvc does is fill your plenum up with oil residue any time you are not on boost if you have good size lines and it set up like above you will never have smoking issues atmo venting catch cans are f**kin stupid . they create way more headaches than they solve ( unlless done properly , which 99% arnt )

intake is adjustable fron the factory . take it out and look at the back of the cam gear or get one of these http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-293718049.htm

yes it is correct . albiet ugly . i left the hose joining the cam covers and ran the one off the spare spigot on the left cover yes you might expect the empty catch can to do nothing but they do actually work . i have pu tone on when i did my fmic and 18 months later it has a film of oil in it and my intercooler pipes are totaly oiless . i mean spot less . mind you my motor is pretty tight all you have to do now is f**k the PCV system off

oh haha ha . there was one of these on trade me . man did it cause a stir . can you post up a video of what it sounds like . for shits and giggles . mainly the SHIT part lol

get an apexi avcr or an hks evc 4 . both can be had for under $200 wtf do you want to fiddle with ramp for ? avcr is closed untill just before it reaches target boost . = max ramp rate , do you want it slower?

surely the fan needs to come on below thermo stat temperature . how the f**k is putting water the same temperature back into the engine going to cool the engine? put a tridon tfs141 thermo switch in the bottom radiator tank . problem solved youll probably find itll bolt into the factory hole .....

can i have it ?

hicas was standard . most of the rest of the options were just shit . air purifier . donga parking assistant thing in bumper . nothing worth while that i can think of

for f**ks sake . 1 should have told us that in first post 2 its not going to go . and if it does it will be through sheer luck and noone will be able to help you from here

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html