lukevl

Beer Baron- not really. Going from low to high boost gives it about 12psi and over 120rwkw or so. That is going to make a lot more positive crank case pressure. The motor will always make positive crankcase pressure due to the cylinder pressure getting past the rings. Its probably just very close to spitting oil out on low boost. EDIT- Its fixed. No more oil dramas. Goes like a cut snake and doesn't regurgitate oil. I love it. 'SK- I am sure you are very shocked by this. Thanks

SK- Okay head is off- bores look very good. Blocking one oil feed off. I believe the CPs will have more blow by than std and that may be enough to tip it over the edge. The old build would spit a little bit out but only when it fluttered the rings on limiter for extended periods of time. Thanks for your input. Running in was about 20 seconds of getting oil pressure followed by nothing but full throttle (only 6psi or so) and no big decels for the first 150km. Then it had 600km of hard driving with no extended cruise or idling times. I used the cheapest oil i could find. Then it went back to the dyno for the 18psi tune. T04GTR- Ring gaps were as per CP setup info- about .026"-.028" Can't remember which ring was larger gap. Yes I chamfered all the rings. The only vertical lines in the bore are from the piston skirt and they are very minimal.

Ok the build should not be the problem. I built it, but i also built it before when it had no problems. I did all the end gaps and clearancing etc etc. I used the same engine machinist and we always use him- he does great work. I installed the rings with CRC only to prevent glazing and ran it in properly. Like I said on low boost it does not have this problem- you would think if it had that bad an issue with blow-by it would still do it on low boost but it doesn't do it AT ALL after 800km of hard driving and longer in the high revs. I am going to block one oil feed. Sydenykid said to only run one so I'll give it a go and it might help since it will be getting just over half the oil it gets now. Edit- I have also port matched the block, head and gasket. And it doesn't do it on the dyno at all. So its only when it gets G-force that it spits it out.

Last build- RB30/25, standard pistons, ACL rings, 7.8:1, RB20/25 oil restrictors (x2), RB25 oil pump, standard oil returns. 320rwkw on 15psi. Very little to no oil in catch cans ever unless it got a huge rev limiter expereince then maybe a little. This build- Same except CP flat tops 8.2:1, CP rings, same restrictors, same pump, drilled out oil returns from 8mm to 10mm, ported rear returns, port matched block/head/gasket for oil returns, 3/4" drain pipe from rear of head to std turbo return point (turbo return is in sump wing). 350rwkw on 18psi. This time it spits oil out at an amazing rate. After a 2nd-4th gear run it will spit out about a litre and make one nasty mess. If I didn't have an 8 litre sump I could be in strife. Comp test is 168-160-162-162-160-165. I can almost guarantee the bores are NOT glazed up. Motor is 850km old. It did not (and still does not) blow any oil out for the first 800km when it was on 9psi. I have read the thread about what oil restrictors to run and I am about to block one off totally but before I pull it apart- has anyone else had this amount of oil come out? (It is obviously power related so it would have to be over 300rwkw I would say.) Thank you in advance!

Must be off a fairly clean std motor. Prefer birsbane so I can see it first. Thanks.

Someone wants to buy my GTR plenum, TBs and inlet manifold. What is it worth roughly?

They are made of exhaust gasket material. ACL made them so they are good quality. Its got the metal intermediate layer like the standard one. You can see in the photo i cut the top and bottom off to clear the block and they fit great. Will post anywhere its only $7 for an express post bag.

As far as i am aware the only exhaust manifold gasket available for the 20/25 is genuine at $90. So I got some made by ACL and have 4 left over. $40 each set - they are made as single cylinders and fit perfectly. They are also made to fit a 30/25 without fouling on the block like a genuine gasket does.

Still required. Anone got a full set?

Ivan Tighe Engineering in Wacol stock the crank collars. $90 each made from high tensile chrome-moly. You need to get the nose of the crank ground down and shrink fit the collar on. Do NOT use grub screws to lock it in place- all you are doing is removing the interference fit. The only thing needed to hold the sleeve in place is the crank being 0.05mm larger in diameter than the hole inside the collar. The interference fit is a highly under-rated way of transmitting force which people stuff up due to bad machining/surface finish.

Would be nice. I forgot to ask you. Will call.

Out of an R33 RB25- must be in good condition out of a working motor. Thanks

I don't need anything on it. No TB, no lines, nothing. Thanks,.

As topic. Thanks

Monsta that is just what I needed to see. And yes Nissan did have a 6 pin in, 7 pin out ignitor. Rb20 is like this with the wiring 123456E; as opposed to having the earth inbetween 3&4. I will now re-pin the connectors so I have 6 out and I'm set. Thanks monsta

I just found an Rb20. The arrow points to the front of the motor! Arghh. Can someone with an RB25 DE tell me if the ignitor arrow points to the coils or to the ecu PLEASE.

You have the same ignitor as me Niel. I'm guessing the arrow points towards the coil on yours. I think i have figured this out people. NOTE: Some RBs have an ignitor which has 6 pins in and 7 pins out (thats my harness) and some have it the other way around. Niel the three wires are; white- coil power, one black one is earth for coils and one is coil one negative signal for what I assume is tacho.

http://www.motec.com.au/drawings/m26.pdf This shows the wiring like my harness but my ignitor has the earth in the middle (according to the markings on top). For me to believe my ignitor I need to know that there are two different types.

Yes they do. But the wiring harness I have is for external (top mounted) ignitor.

Can Rb20/25 owners please check their cars and tell me if its 6 pin in, 7 pin out or the other way around. Just by looking at your ignitor . Also which way the arrow points please.

Thanks Monsta. It helped. BUT I have a genuine Nissan coil loom with a 7-pin plug on it- 6 coils and an earth. And I have the other plug which is 6 pins and I assume went to the computer. So some RBs (Rb20 or different series Rb25) must have 6 pins in and 7 pins out with a different ignitor, and some vice versa

Hi I have a VVT Rb25 head (Not sure if its S1 or S2) It has the ignitor on top of the rocker cover. I got a wiring loom from another RB25. Q1. My Ignitor output has the pins in the following order 1 -2 - 3 - Earth - 4 -5 -6. Is this correct? My wiring Harness goes 1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -Earth. I can change the pins but I need to know wether to believe the box. Q2. The arrow on the ignitor goes the wrong way. It points back towards the computer. is this right? Q3. 6 pins into ignitor, 7 pins out (6 signals and earth). Correct? Please help

Come on surely someone hasn't used a PFC..

I have an RB25 head and the plugs to go into the sensors like CAS, TPS, Coils, ignitor etc. Each plugs has a few inches of wire hanging off it. What I want to do is put the Motec flying loom straight into the plugs but can't find any new pins to go into the Nissan plugs. Has anyone done this before and know where to get the pins? thanks

Yeah or you could have a 6 mm plate with an ID and OD about 12mm apart so it sits in the back of the gear with tapped holes 90 degrees apart. Then all you have to do is drill out the VVT holes so they don't have thread in them and the plate on the back works just as a clamp for the VVt and gear and you have bolts at the front. i like my first idea better- its easier and simpler. And if you want markings they have to be scribed on the gear and VVT.