lukevl

Geez anything else you want for $50? Foot rub? Just get some grub screws and tack weld nuts on the back of them. Voila. Adjust it from the front with an allen key. now someone pay me for my brilliant idea. PS. You don't need marks on them. You aren't tuning an F1 motor.

I will sell you a kit to make it adjustable from the front. How much do you want to pay? Is $50 too much?

Get a dial gauge that does unscrew. Put a chicane in the welding rod and it gets around the camshaft shaft.

Come on someone has to have a pile of these somewhere...

Just after the two bits of aluminum that bolt to the cylinder head and locate the coils. Preferably Brisbane

Thanks for the replys. i am using a Motec but I need something to plug into the CAS, TPS, ignitor, coils etc. I just don't want to use the old plastic plugs from a wrecker who wouldn't let me cut them off anyway. My understanding is that Nissan only sells looms not plugs.

Does anyone know where to buy new connectors for things like the CAS and coils etc. I need to wire up my motor asap!

Sorry to Hijack but I need one too. In Brissie but. Thanks.

R stands for Sand cast and die cast aluminium block. Thats pretty dumb

The standard RB25 inlet manifold needs to be modified to use 363s.

Thanks. I know the coils fail but some people say that leaving the cover off helps the coils and I know the ignitor is the critical part that gets hot so I just thought maybe the external ignitor ones wouldn't benefit from having the cover off.

People say to leave the valley cover off to prevent the coils from failing. Is this only on the inbuilt ignitors? Do Rb20 and RB26 guys have the same problem when the ignitor is on top of the cover? I was thinking that it may be the ignitor that fails because Nissan use a heat sink on the Rb26 ignitors.

If the score marks are too deep you could be in a world of hurt. They would want to be only very light marks and you wouldn't want to hone them out cause then you will make your bearing clearances even bigger. Your only option is to make a set of cams with bigger bearings which would be very costly. Its cheaper to buy a new head.

After the harness that goes from the ignitor to the coils. Also after the plug for the other side of the ignitor. Also after CAS plug (front of exhaust camshaft sensor plug). Will take pieces from any RB motor as long as they fit my coils. Thanks!

Just a note for everyone - The above manual for the RB26 has the baffle plates on caps 3&4 but on the RB25 (mine at least) they go on caps 6 and 7. The baffling in the rocker covers are different and that is why the breather hoses come out at a different place. I believe you can't get this wrong anyway because the rocker covers probably wouldn't go on. At the end of it all just do up the cam caps very gradually so you don't snap the cam!

No, 540 degrees is their suggested amount to turn each nut in sequence so you tighten them gradually until they nip up (caps bottom) THEN you tighten them to about 11Nm as per the TORQUE setting in the picture. I used a little 3/8" drive torque wrench that goes from basically zero to 20 odd Nm. Works a treat. 11 Nm does not feel tight enough but all techo sort of stuff with cam caps are about that figure so I did them up to 12Nm. haha

Thanks heaps guys. I will use the 'small' torque wrench. lol.

Does anyone know the Nissan setting for the cam caps? I'm assuming the RB20,25 and 26 have the same setting. I have an RB25. Thanks!

Do you know how much the NVCS moves the cam? Also is it a 2-position unit or can they open and close the solenoid to create variable movements? Agreed. Like on my motor where the gears have no relevant marks and you have to degree them in from scratch. However Sydneykid makes a very good point by saying who gives a toss where they are cause he moves them on the dyno and he knows when he puts the gears on they will be within a few degrees. My cams will be moved on the dyno also.

If the car still runs ok it means the valves haven't hit the pistons. What it does mean is you have some incorrect tappet clearances. check them all asap before you rip a valve in half. If they are std cams and gears line the marks up to get back to std timings! Or take it to a mechanic to get the cam timing sorted. BTW- GTRs always sound weird! in a good way...

If you buy Jap cams for the RB25VVT they will have a conservative inlet so it can run with the VVT. Buy cams to suit a non-VVT Rb25 or RB20 that way your HKS gears (I assume they are the same- 4 bolts and a pin) will bolt on and you will have no VVT.

hahaha yeah its a bit sad isn't it. The only thing is that if I wrote the same post without saying prices the first Q is always "How much?" So I thought I'd write it.

Davey Boy how is your vehicle going? The RB25VVT inlet cam is the only one with a different front out of all the RB cams. It is a single bolt front with a locating dowel. I make adjustable centres to bolt on which use the standard outer to make it adjustable. Its quite easy and all you need is a different seal ($6) and a shorter bolt without a hole in it ($Stuff all) and loctite the bolt in so oil doesn't get past. You're looking at $120 incl GST at a guess. Call me on my mobile if you still have the number or at work.

4067 is your new postcode I lived in St Lucia during my uni days. 4066 is all the surrounding areas. Wacol is only a 25 min drive from St Lucia so its not too far away.

I would like to thank all deceased cane toads in the nearby area for taking 8 strokes off my golf game. The poison wart splatter has been worth it.