HIKAR1

Yeah hahaha I just read heaps on the JECS injectors review. A lot of people had issues running unleaded (idling etc) above 750cc, shit latency and poor spray pattern. Aside from those few people had issues brand spanking new injectors stuck running e85 so different fuel different problems. I'm going to flush them after track anyway by running it with unleaded so no big dramas. With the flow, I can weld fittings on both end of the stock side feed fuel rail and cap off the original entry and exit, run sard fpr if that helps?

Searched half a day but no luck finding the info. New setup: R33 Track Only RB25/30 E85 Fuel cell -> Filter -> Bosch 044 -> Surge Tank -> 2 x Bosch 044 -> check valve -> Y merger -> Filter -> Stock fuel line -> Stock side feed fuel rail, 1200cc injectors, stock FPR My questions are whether the items highlighted in red is capable to run 400rwkw on E85? Thanks in advance lads.

PM'd. Ohh I have to add: remove all your mods before you sell (advertise it stock). It is better this way. Mods bring young kids to waste your time, the target buyer is between 24-30yrs, mods means nothing to them so they won't appreciate or pay what has been done

SOLD!!

As to sonicii. The front bearing no, have to order the hub assembly. But the rear hub you can replace just the bearing itself, at least it was when I did it on my V35. Also I tried CBC, statewide, AWB, veales and repco they don't have a listing for it (said 350z for V35 and 370z for the V36). When you give them the Timken part number it is always ex-usa.

I swapped back the original drivers side wheel bearing and put the new one on passenger side.

Perhaps you have missed that the car is still under the 3 months statuory warranty, meaning, they will only fix and replace what is broken and not take preventative measures. Once Christmas is over, I'll replace all corners. Shipping is a bit hectic during this period edit: to think about it, I'll wait until the warranty finishes and hope the otherside goes during that period so they can replace it for free. Until then, otherwise, I'll do the above

I would like to conclude this thread, it was the front wheel bearing. Ordered the parts from rockauto in US and the workshop reimbursed me the money (oem nissan is ex japan 1 months wait). From the diagnosis everybody agreed it was the front drivers bearing, and the workshop changed just that. On the way home the same noise appeared. Got home, Luckily I kept the old drivers side wheel bearing and swapped it over myself as the warranty workshop is very far and no more noise/vibration!

Allright, bringing the car in to a workshop recommended by the AWN in few hours. I emailed them the list like above. See how it goes

Another update, I took the car on a long sweeping bend (freeway entry). Speed was 80km/h. Turning right this time, the noise disappear, however as I straighten up as I exit the bend the noise came back on. I did this going the opposite way as well (sweeping left) and the noise sure amplified...... Thanks for your input so far guys.

Hi guys, Last week I purchased a 2008 V36 Sedan 370GT 7 speed Auto. Bought from a dealer at 56000kms. From day one I have been hearing this low frequency pulsating vibration and the faster I go the quicker the sound cycles. I'll be brief but descriptive here so I hope someone here can shine a light to this as I am totally stumped. The car still has the 3 months stat warranty but as everybody know dealer screws you around unless you pin point what the problem is. Car is completely stock The sound: 1. Low frequency (i.e when you drive over the fairly gapped ripple strip as you approach a toll gate) 2. Gets more frequent the faster you go - gets you nuts at 100km/h 3. It pulsates - loud none loud none 4. If I swerve the car to the left (all the weight on the driver side) the sound amplifies 5. It is felt through the car body 6. Steering does NOT shake at any speed (not wheel balancing) 7. Steering does NOT shake whilst braking (not warped discs) 8. Sound is irrelevant to engine RPM (I dropped gears or put it in neutral and the sound is still there) What I have tried to rule out few possibilities: 1. Tyres - I originally thought it is because of the cheap chinese brand new tyres they put on during compliance. However, just then, I fitted another oem nissan same size wheels all round with michelin tyres that have NO issues. Sound is STILL there. 2. Re-check all suspension related bolts including tail shaft bolts, none were loose. Sound is STILL there 3. Wheel bearing - now this could be the debatable culprit. I checked for play, there was NO play. However I read online that even if there is no play the wheel bearing, it could still be in the early stages of failing. 4. Bushings - Car was on hoist, I checked all bushings for signs of wear or cracks. Nothing, everything was good. 5. Stuck caliper - Whilst the car still up, I spun all the wheels. Both rears has slight resistance (due to the drive train) but nothing was abnormal. Also been driving for a week, I would of noticed if the pads were cooking. I pretty much did what a normal mechanic would do, bringing it to the dealer they would end up doing the same thing and do the catch 22 on me UNLESS I can sort of pin point where the problem is. Pretty stumped, please help! Cheers.

Contact: 0433 220 four four nine Location: Perth, WA (INTERSTATE BUYERS WELCOME) Price (below) is negotiable but please see the car first before making offers For sale: 2004 V35 Skyline Sedan 6 speed Manual Rego expiry - late April 2015 VLSD rear diff Pearl White 139xxx kms Engine: VQ35DE 200kw Apexi Panel Air Filter Suspension: BC BR Fully Adjustable Coilovers Wheels & Tires: 18x9.5 +20 Rota Grids Gunmetal - Flush fitment Achilles ATR sport (50% Rear, 80% Front) Brakes: R33 Front 4 Pot Brake Calipers Conversion - same performance as the brembos ADR approved front braided brake line Front DBA T3 Clubspec Disc QFM A1RM Front pads Rear EBC Slotted Disc QFM A1RM Rear pads Project MU hand brake brake shoes Exterior: Pearl white paint (QT1) 6000k HID Factory Rear wing Interior: Beat sonic iphone/ipod cable VDC bypass switch (or so called the drift switch) Darkest legal window tint Factory Sat nav screen Identimark ADR approved immobilizer (2 remotes) + all the typical standard features Conditions: Mechanically A1 This is a RARE 6 speed manual V35 Sedan. It is not the common silver and unlike the CVTs that are going around costing people $$$$ to repair Not a single drop of oil, as its meticulously maintained. Icy cold aircond Semi major serviced done about 5k kms ago that includes New Coolant (Penrite) New gearbox oil (Redline MT90) New Diff oil Aux drive belts Install of the calipers and disc Brake Fluid flush (Penrite Sin) Engine oil/oil filter (Penrite tenth tens) Good reasonable fuel consumption 9.5 L /100kms I also have included the spare parts that will come with the car Stock front calipers, Stock front & rear discs, Stock brake pads, Stock suspension Stock headlight 4300k hid Stock wheels with tyres Stock gear knob Spare "lock out" car key Price: $13500 ONO (please negotiate the price when you SEE the car) Was a weekend car. Lost my job doing FIFO, now back in Perth office. Recently bought an automatic V36 + already have a honda CRV for daily commute Contact: 0433 220 four four nine NO SWAPS, No jet pilots/test drives until deposit taken otherwise I am ok to give you a ride prior.

Contact: 0433 220 four four nine Location: Perth, WA Price (below) is negotiable but please see the car first before making offers For sale: 2004 V35 Skyline Sedan 6 speed Manual VLSD rear diff Pearl White 139xxx kms Engine: VQ35DE 200kw Apexi Panel Air Filter Suspension: BC BR Fully Adjustable Coilovers Wheels & Tires: 18x9.5” +20 Rota Grids Gunmetal - Flush fitment Achilles ATR sport (50% Rear, 80% Front) Brakes: R33 Front 4 Pot Brake Calipers Conversion - same performance as the brembos ADR approved front braided brake line Front DBA T3 Clubspec Disc QFM A1RM Front pads Rear EBC Slotted Disc QFM A1RM Rear pads Project MU hand brake brake shoes Exterior: Pearl white paint (QT1) 6000k HID Factory Rear wing Interior: Beat sonic iphone/ipod cable VDC bypass switch (or so called the “drift” switch) Darkest legal window tint Factory Sat nav screen Identimark ADR approved immobilizer (2 remotes) + all the typical standard features Conditions: Mechanically A1 This is a RARE 6 speed manual V35 Sedan. UNLIKE the CVTs that are going around costing people $$$$ to repair Not a single drop of oil, as it’s meticulously maintained. Icy cold aircond Rego expire late April 2015 Semi major serviced done about 5k kms ago that includes New Coolant (Penrite) New gearbox oil (Redline MT90) New Diff oil Aux drive belts Install of the calipers and disc Brake Fluid flush (Penrite Sin) Engine oil/oil filter (Penrite tenth tens) Good reasonable fuel consumption 9.5 L /100kms I also have included the spare parts that will come with the car Stock front calipers, Stock front & rear discs, Stock brake pads, Stock suspension Stock headlight 4300k hid Stock wheels with tyres Stock gear knob Spare "lock out" car key Price: $13500 ONO (please negotiate the price when you SEE the car) Was a weekend car. Lost my job doing FIFO, now back in Perth office. Recently bought an automatic V36 + already have a honda CRV for daily commute Contact: 0433 220 four four nine NO SWAPS, No jet pilots/test drives until deposit taken otherwise I am ok to give you a ride prior.

I would like to write a conclusion for this thread. 1. Both headlights move with steering 2. AFS function is fully restored when you revert back to D2S hid 3. Light emission 'pattern' is back when you revert back to D2S hid. Adr compliance is stupid. Nissan design its headlight to run oem hid. People here switch it out to standard halogen globe, predominantly H1 size in which has different focal length. Then what you get is NO LIGHT THROUGH THE CENTRE OF YOUR VISION, short visible distance and your AFS malfunctions. Dangerous?? But the adr wants it that way...go figure! Fortunately if the workshop who did the compliance are smart and proper, buy the D2S hid globe and it only takes 30mins to revert back to hid. At least it was on my 08 V36

Few items up for sale. Contact: 0433 220 four four nine 1. Garrett T04R Turbo (aka T66 from GCG turbos over east) - Absolutely No Shaft Play - T4 flange entry, V band exit on turbine housing - 0.84A/R turbine housing - Journal Bearing - Comes with feed oil line - Comes with flange and pipe that bolts into the compressor outlet - CHRA S/N: 60189 - CHRA P/N: T66-PSB360TH - 700 hp (@ engine capable) Nissan RB25 Manifold - China stainless steel manifold from ebay - T4 Flange - 38mm external gate exit PRICE: $900 Firm ($1000 if bought with the wastegate below) NO SEPARATES, I don't have a use for the manifold if the turbo sold by itself. 2. Garrett GT35R Turbo Brand New Genuine - In box with manufacture warranty, has NOT even been trial fitted or used in any way - Compressor wheel is the next generation Garrett CNC machined wheel (lighter than the inconell cast for faster response) - Turbine Housing: T3 entry, 4 bolt 3" GT exit, 0.82A/R - CHRA part no: 714568-5002S (112682-27) - Comes with all gaskets required to fit it from factory This exact same unit will cost $2200 from MTQ or Turbotech. My loss, your gain. Decided it was too big and unresponsive for 2L. PRICE: $1800 Firm 3. 6 x RB25 Side Feed Injectors JECS - Removed from a running engine when decided to go bigger for higher HP on E85 - About 6000kms on it - Comes with injector data sheet (flow tested and matched at certain pressure and latency etc) - JECS High Impedance Side Feed Type apparently good to run E85 (270kw limit) as well - Drops right in to stock RB25 (non neo), SR20, VQ35 and VG30 fuel rail. May fit subaru motors as well (do your own research) - Good for about 600rwhp on 6 cylinder engines running on petrol with plenty of safety head room PRICE: $500 Firm 4. For Sale: 6 Puck Clutch to suit RB20, RB25, RB26 (push style) and RB30 - Brand: SPEC America - Capacity: 600NM - Type: Single Plate 6 Puck Push Type This clutch was used for about 1200kms in which was driving the R33 down to bunbury twice to break the new built engine in (no high revs no limiter bash no clutch kicks or dumps). Now plan has changed to push big torque with the RB30DET so decided to change to a twin plate. Have this exact same clutch on my 400rwhp 470nm RB25 R32 with 4 years worth of drift pracs and comps, rallysprint, no limits events and speed event series with absolutely no fault. This clutch just loves abuse and pedal feel is great (no overly heavy). PRICE: $300 Firm 5. 50mm Synapse Synchronic External Wastegate - Used but great working condition - V band entry and exit HOWEVER, I welded a tube reducer with a flange to suit 38mm manifold exit. If you have 50mm manifold wastegate exit you may simply cut out the reducer I made and utilize the v band. - Comes with the screamer pipe PRICE: $150 Firm 6. HDI Electronic Boost Controller - Perfect working condition, comes with solenoid and wiring harness - Simple electronic boost controller and holds the desired boost dead flat - No finniky settings dial to make it work right (i.e HKS) (Pic displayed is from the internet but it is the same thing) PRICE: $70 Firm 7. R32 Skyline Passenger Side Coupe Quarter Glass, exterior seal is still intact PRICE: $70 Firm 8. Blow off valve Unsure what brand it is but looks like turbosmart. Adjustable spring pressure by twisting the head. Good working condition, NON-gay ricer sound or Habib spec that wakes up the whole suburb. (Does not come with the intercooler pipe) PRICE: $50 9. R33 S1 Front Bumper - Painted red by drunk mates - Has the intercooler cut out PRICE: $20 10. R33 S1 OEM Bonnet - No dings, painted metallic black PRICE: $50 And again, contact is 0433 220 four four nine Beeliar S.O.R

All gone.

Ok, bit the bullet and made a quick decision. Just bought a Gt35r near new condition, that really escalated quick but now I can sleep. Why I said I want to either max out the injector or afm or turbo was because either one of them will max out at 500rwhp On the pic: 7 Blade GT3076r, Gt3582r (yay!) and blitz kkk450r

I would but it is more of like doing it right first time because I really cbf pulling turbo in and out haha.

Hi lads, I've got the 7 blade gt3076 with the t04s 0.7 a/r compressor cover on it, 0.82A/r rear housing ext gated. I have used this turbo on my previous RB25DET and made 292rwkw @18psi on the state's lowest reading dyno (C-Red @ W.A). I'm currently doing a RB30DET conversion with this same turbo and after lot of research (sau, hardtune, nasioc etc) I find that there is not a conclusive answer to the difference between the real GT3076R (6 blade) vs the Gt3076 with 7 blade T04S compressor cover on it beside "the 7 blade old design chokes flow at high boost, it acts like a brake". I have looked the compressor maps (attached below) and there isn't much variation point to point between the pressure ratio and the air flow between the 6 blade and 7 blade, they also flow to about 53lb/min at 68% efficiency. Question is, can experts point out where I did wrong/right to verify the 7 blade (52T) is inferior to the real 6 blade gt3076r (56T)? What I'm aiming is like al's or cubes setup but externally gated, ~350rwkw with E42.5 (50% E85 and 50% 98 ron) with the intention of full boost by 3000rpm and to max out the AFM, turbo and injectors. The setup is: RB30DET 9:1 CR 86.5mm CP pistons Spool conrod My current 7 blade turbo Tomei poncams RB25DET head vct enabled Power FC Steam pipe exhaust manifold Greddy Intake manifold 760cc JECS Injectors Z32 AFM The RB25 made full boost by 4000rpm which was great for barbagallo long track but as soon as I go short track or enter rally sprint events (very tight course) the lag really slowed me down. Also did a quick calc based on the real GT3076R RB30DET setup like al's and cubes; 3L, 7000rpm, VE 92%, Boost: 18psi gives a pressure ratio of 2.2 and 53lb/min air flow (see no corrections air temp etc are made here) plots to the right side of the 65% efficiency range but these guys are making ~330rwkw happy power..... What do you think?

R33 B Pillar Brace Sold Jump starter Sold The one wheel with the minor gutter rash has been fixed and the rest all polished up ready to go. $750 FIRM, if you can't read this don't bother, too many time wasters.

1. Semi Slicks 2xBridgestone RE55S 235/40/17 and 2xToyo R888 225/45/17 The RE55S is on the wear marker, the R888 is about 1 or 2mm above wear marker. Suit someone who wants to take it to skidpan day or perhaps the drags. What the heck $50 for the 4 tyres and I can hook you up with tyre fitting 1/4 price than normal shops. Price: $50 2. Rota Grids white, 17x9.5's (x2) and 17x9's (x2) both +12 offset Been sitting doing nothing for a while hence collecting dust. Two tyres are brand new, stickers still on it, two tyres are bald. Minor blemish on some but nothing that cannot be fixed with a polisher except for the one in the photo that has a minor gutter rash. Price: $750 3. R33 Body stiffening brace Mounts on the bottom of your b pillar, uses the seat belt bottom mounts so it is a direct bolt-in install. Stiffens up your boat. Price: $100 4. R33 roof lining Good condition to replace your soggy cumstained ones Price: $20 5. R32 Passenger side quarter window Removed from car and ready to go, good condition. Price: $100 6. Battery Jump Starter SCA 1900A Good working condition, just lost the charging adapter when moving house. Charging adapter can be bought cheaply from battery world etc, charging polarity and amperage is labelled. Unit was ~$180 new from supercrap. Price: $70 o.n.o 7. R33 leb spec GTR style wing Red/maroon in color, looks like the one in the photo. Price: $100 o.n.o Contact: Kev 0433 220 four four nine

Following items are for sale: 1. Semi slicks tyres: 2xBridgestone R55S 235/40/17 & 2xToyo R888 225/45/17 Description: See picture below, they are good for 1-2 track days or even for RAC track sessions Price: $100 FIRM for all, no separates 2. R32 3.5" Kakimoto full exhaust including downpipe Description: Good condition Price: $400 FIRM 3. RB25DET S2 Coilpacks (set of 6) Description: 100% working order pulled from running car Price: $150 FIRM No pictures this time but you know what coilpacks look like. Yes prices are firm, if you find it cheaper else where then don't bother me. Too many time wasters. Kev: 0433 220 four four nine

Price drop $950 $900 Perth, W.A Can ship anywhere at buyers' expense

Price drop $1000 $950 for all 4

Thanks man, Price drop: $13500 $13000 o.n.o with stock wheels and suspension $15000 $14500 o.n.o with the coilovers, rota wheels as pictured and comes with stock wheels, stock suspension and extra set of front tyres Forgot to place, Location is Perth