itchymoose

What kind of overheating issues? I'd be surprised if you had the same problem! lol! Could only happen to me! Is currently being completely rebuilt! Again!

I'll be sure to give details on what the issue is so hopefully in future in my experience may help save others thousands of dollars!

Surely i can't be the first person to experience this problem!!! Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Cant find anything on whats behind waterpump? can anyone verify this story? nissan manuals don't mention anywhere.

Did anyone out there know that an rb20 has an internal thermostat behind the waterpump which directs the flow of water within the block/head? If this is true then i am thinking this could be responsible. As it occassionally had issue during a hot day after having a cold overnight temp. I'm guessing(not being a mechanic) that its possible this was jamming in the cold o/night temps in tassie which caused the cooling system to operate incorrectly. ie water not flowing thru radiator properly. It was explained to me that this internal thermostat was designed to help warm up of the engine in cold temps then as it reachs a certain temp it changes the flow within to use the full cooling system not just recirculate warm water(assist in warm up and drive in winter) in the head/block and manifold!

If you hold about 2000 - 2500rpm just parked it will cool down. Less than or more rpm than that and it gets hotter. Doesn't seem to flow water thru radiator properly! Which has been replaced with a big alloy one. So isn't a radiator blockage! Also still same prob with old radiator.

Did wonder about the cold tassie air affecting the performance of the clutch fan. yes does have shroud. Tho surely if it was fan related then it would cool down on the highway. Not so. Temp still climbs! And yet on days of above 19 degrees it doesn't play up at all. ?????????????? Got many mechanics down here confused! Really don't want to pull down an engine that tests results are perfect on! Was wondering if waterpumps can fail(less than 5000ks old)???

fans work fine, have replaced thermostat too! If fans were an issue i would have thought i'd have had problems in summer with overheating. But it only runs hot in cold air temps like below 18 degrees.

Getting desperate for ideas! I have an r32 skyline that runs hot in cold weather and is fine during warm to hot weather! Have had exhausted just about every test known in attempting to diagnose problem! For example when i first got my car back from getting its rb20 stripped down and completely rebuilt. We were still getting some cold overnight temps and when driving it in temps of less than 18c degrees it would warm up very quickly then would climb under whatever conditions to 100c degrees, whether just idling or boosting up. Then in hot warm to hot weather 19c to 36c degrees it would run a perfectly stable 86c! what the??????? Tests done so far: Sniffer test for colling system for head gasket issues - Result = no prob Compression test = no prob pressurised cooling system = no prob temp test to validate wolf temps and it really is hot(no sender or guage issues) air/fuel ratio check = no lean spots not likely to be fan issues (has issues on hwy or town) Water pump is less than 6 months old (if it were water pump you'd think it'd get hot in summer too) oil pressure is normal Desperate for help! 1989 R32 My specs for engine as follows: RB20det silver top arc front mount i/c factory r33 turbo running 14.6psi cp racing dump pipe 3.5 inch system (not quite sure) rebuilt head ross forged pistons & rings custom billet rods acl race series bearings balance and blueprint bottom end linished crank bore machined .5mm from stock cometic h/gasket billet 264 degree 8.5mm lift cams (or 9mm cant find sheet) 440cc gtr injectors wolf3d vers 4 walbro fuel pump Please if anyone has some ideas they would be hugely appreciated! Next step is pulling it apart again!

I have already been back twice! no luck just gets worse! Can't afford to risk any serious damage which it has probably already suffered from pinging its brains out! last time i got it back it wouldn't even use half the load map! a friend picked that up after 2mins in the car! why couldn't they? also so if they don't pick up simple stuff like that what else are they not seeing! also map is so irregular its noticeable when you drive! As far as the old tune goes! "oh we can't find it was their response! no help there! Thanks tho in most cases what you said is what i'd do but it's gone beyond that now! I'm not here to bag the people that tuned it! hence no mention of where how! and as far as problems beyond tuners fault, well it'd be nice if it was that cos then there'd b a fault to chase! sadly no! everything as it should be, but ignition and fuel map jumps round all over the show! so bad in fact it wouldn't idle at the lights without wavering between 800rpm and 2000rpm without even touching the throttle! fuel economy lol or fuel extravaganza, 5km per litre! not good! like i say in my post a little help with some examples would be nice, as where i live we don't have many options as far as performance tuning goes!

Hey if anyone could be so kind to let me view some examples of their ign/fuel map i'd really appreciate it! I took my car to a reputable tuner! It cost me an arm and a leg! After getting it back pinging its head off, i refuse to go back there! What makes it worse is they lost the dyno tuned map i had for it originally! i just need a better base to work on than the one i have! My specs: R32 gtst rb20 440cc injectors, wolf 3d v4, r33 turbo running 15psi 3inch turbo back exhaust splitfire coils front mount intercooler i realise every car is different, so i will need to work on it to make it work! but a good base to work from would be a huge help!