pipster11

go to supercheap and buy 4 litres of the cheapest possible oil and 2 bottles of nulon flush drop your good oil and keep it safe put in the cheap oil with both bottles of flush run for 20 mins at idle, raising it 2000 rpm for 20-30 secs every 5 mins Drop hot Put your good oil back in

yeah tires will be fine spacers are illigal in some states i wouldnt worry about the 8mm on the rear, just run a bolt on up front or get the gktech spacers that come with bolt and slip ons to get the perfect offset

sounds about right ideally tho you'd run a +15 front and +30 rear and use no spacers but running spacers will allow you to rotate the wheels easily

Awesome! Shame I won't be down south till mid feb

Depends on the cams Poncams no loss, and some other keep it too But some loose vct, usually the more aggressive cams

Also just paid rego! Woooo This should be fun, tassie just updated to stickerless rego but qld hasn't Yellow stagea + qld + tassie plates - rego sticker = .... we'll find out i guess

Haha, i was gonna find your add Andrew and put it in here but you beat me to it OP, you should totally buy this one, but it would be sad for tassie to loose another stagea

Bushes were ordered yesterday for the 31 and Stagea, should be fitting them tmrw $640 retail - down to $310 So glad i didn't buy them myself

Wow, that's dedication! Got a mate ordering some bushes for me :-) So much cheaper than retail when you work in the industry Eg, r31 rack bushes, $15 fish vs around $45-60 on the eBay Can't wait to have a bit more camber and caster in the front of the Stagea

All the same Should fit They fit s13/14/15 and r32/33/34 so should fit c3%4 I'll be ordering monday

get the gktech lines and win at life

i'd be careful running 13psi on the stock turbo 10 is regarded as about the safe limit for the neo turbo i'd factor in: highflow - $900 retune - $300ish depending on how long it takes obviously and a fuel pump most ppl are saying around 230-240kw on the stock injectors and afm or z32 and injectors will let you max a hypergear highflow out to around 260-280 rwkw Personally i'm saving up for a highflow and tune, which will probably also need a fmic so there goes $2k but should get me to around 230rwkw (stock on 7 psi the previous owner had 136awkw so thats a pretty big gain for $2k)

yeah, i downloaded it and printed it out but its also useful for other areas where there is no known translation or for areas of interest for the jap service manuals (r33/r34 etc)

the sucking shut of the intake is well documented stao (hypergear) thinks sleeving it doesn't work i can't prove him wrong but mine is sleeved i have no issues with the stock turbo on 10psi what turbo are you running btw?

Not what i have done but what i've found out: you can now use google translate (at least on android) to translate photo's of text from jap to english!!!! Pointed the phone at my fuse box, highlighted the text i wanted and bam! It told me what the japanese said and it made sense!

Tie rod inners were ok last time i checked the rattle definitely got better after doing the sway bar links but its still there the tie rod ends i needed has the same larger taper as r32 gtr ends but were the length and thread of the 33 gtst ends might get the whiteline rear sway bar with new links to rule that out and maybe some caster rods while im at it, still rocking the stock ones and maybe the rack bushes just for good measure

Hey Guys This problem has been bugging me more and more over the last few weeks and i've only really noticed it since coming back from Tassie Aaaaaages ago i bumped a kerb pretty hard with the front passenger wheel and something moved (wheel was slightly crooked afterwards) After that i finally sussed out the tie rod ends (kept getting 2wd ones until i bought genuine ones) The car still pulls to the left pretty hard after a few alignments To add to this, the rattle that i thought was sway bar links is still there even after fitting new links (usually can be heard over uneven ground/bad roads) And, when on the highway the car sometimes wanders and doesn't seem to like going straight ahead Took it to pedders, cracked caster bushes and rack bushes apparently, but neither of these would cause a rattle I'm leaning towards it being a damaged ball joint, anyone else got some ideas?

pm sent

plastic polish for the trim behind the rear doors

Black M35 parked outside Melbas in surfers Friday night I may have left a note on your car

Well played...

Holy Shit! What did that cost you if you don't mind me asking?

Been running it on united 100 since i've been back, its the same price in Qld as 91 octane is in Tas haha It's been pulling to the left since i nudged a kerb pretty hard even after a wheel alignment or two and has a rattle over uneven road that i swore was sway bar links but its still there even (but quieter now) after the new whiteline links so i took it into Pedders today for a $14 check rack bushes and caster bushes are soft apparently and thats it so will go for some adjustable caster bushes and nolathane rack bushes other than that, the front sway bar is going pretty well, rear bar may be on order soon found a seller in the us who can do it for around $220 delivered: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370691983118?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_6027wt_1055

i personnaly wouldn't self install the board as you have to desolder multilayer circuit board stuff which can get messy if you dont have the right tools you could take the ecu out and run down to a tv repair shop tho, they have the gear to do it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R34-SKYLINE-GT-T-SERIES2-RB25DET-NEO-ENGINE-/330831891106?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d071e0aa2 buy this then win at life!