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pipster11

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Everything posted by pipster11

  1. Not sure sorry, can't get my version of fast to load all the models to check Can't get it to pick up c34's at all
  2. Any rb30 injectors kicking about ?
  3. Hey Guys, Where did you buy from? Just went to grab one from their website but postage is a killer $55 for a small fuel pump I bought a whole timing belt kit and waterpump from the US and postage was only $60ish Not many people seem to sell them on here and i'd prefer to buy one direct or from a site sponsor Cheers, Tom
  4. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/nissanstageaw34standardpartsoutside/ JIS has them, $185/side for a brand new one
  5. I've got a full set of s2 rear brakes in Lonnie mate Rotors and callipers, just make me an offer I put r33 brakes on mine but they were only like 2mm bigger
  6. Do you bore out the wastegate hole Stao? Maybe you could look at the EFR turbos and borrow some ideas from them to come up with a better rear housing design?
  7. No worries mate, glazing is probably the wrong word but i'd heard tales of redline helping synchros and others saying the opposite pretty much all of that previous information was regurgitated from the toymods thread with the exception of the excerpt from redline about not using in in synchro boxes a lot of the toymods guys were rating castrol vmx80 as being much better than previous oils
  8. http://www.toymods.o...proof-r154.html I'd read that first and from redline themselves:
  9. Nope, I used to do pizza deliveries in mine, in tas I used to average 12-13l/100km
  10. deatchworks dw300 is a 300 l/hr drop in replacement no idea if this is enough for you but seeing as you have 044's already means you just need something to keep the swirl pot full
  11. you should probably change the gearbox oil at 100,000kms anyway get something good and synthetic and it may help keep them going also, making sure that the revs are matched between shifts will lessen the crunching too as the synchro's will be working less edit: probably don't use redline as its been known to glaze synchros from over-lubrication
  12. video says its private can't see it
  13. getting a thicker swaybar for the stagea and a cusco rear strut brace (apparently makes a massive difference) those parts will probably make their way onto the car before i get to drive it tho, can't wait for November when i go back to qld where my car is Getting pretty bored with driving the R31 about
  14. if the ID of the stock bar is 16mm and the OD is 24 it should be about 50% stiffer thats if the same mounting points were used, but the adjustable points give you more stiffness there too just a note, i was lazy, i didn't measure anything or even do my own calculations, i just bunged some numbers into an online calculator
  15. the nissan fitting kit will be r33 style pump on cradle thingo not c34 pump in box on tank floor style, i'll get onto them tho and see if they can chuck in the 45 degree filter edit: to contact the seller i have to credit my tradme account Kiwi, could you do me a favor and ask him for me?
  16. a set of rota wheels will set you back around $1k + $500ish for tyres in that size for some cheapies in a 9 you'd want something like a +10 but anything around there will sit well your an auto are you not duncan, so you'd be pretty flush on the rear but inset on the front, going from a +30 (stock gtr offset) to +12 would probably make it flush and stop the rubbing in other news, i just ordered a cusco rear strut brace and a mate should be picking up my new front sway bar for me soon Then i'll only have to wait till mid november to drive my car again, getting pretty bored with just driving the gf's R31
  17. Hey guys Slowly aquiring a few new parts and im looking at the Fuel Pump I'm wanting to get the Deatschwerks DW300 but there are a few different versions: see the table below I know i need the one which comes with the 45 degree filter, but does anyone know if one of them comes with the correct sub-loom too? Cheers, Tom
  18. 18x9.5 +12 for the manual stagea (assuming c34) /wheel dimension dilemmas
  19. pretty sure rs4s should be lsd from factory so if its loose you should be able to shim it up tighter pretty easily sweet, i was wondering what sort of an upgrade the front swaybar offered please tell me 33 gtr ones are the same up front, i may have found one cheap
  20. coppers give better spark than platinum iridiums come close to copper but with the service life of platinum also, that black grille looks pretty good i might have to get some plastiwrap and do mine similar to that i love how even the reo is yellow lol
  21. you are quite misinformed about both hypergear and kinugawa hypergear makes his own stuff, yes he doesn't use ball bearings he uses bush bearings but i doubt that you will find a manufacturer that will back up his product as much as stao, he has even taken his old turbo bought second hand and updated them to the latest spec for about $400 kinugawa also uses mitsubishi chra's and stuffs them into his own housings afaik both are well founded and have low to no reliability issues stao is constantly testing on his rb25 so his turbo's are perfect for them, he knows what works and if you talk to him about what you want he will make sure to deliver something that performs how you want it also, you can get cheap dodgey ebay 35/40's so kiwi's response was valid back on topic, the long inlet runners of the stock over-the-top intake manifold give good low-midrange torque its well documented on this forum that front facing manifolds loose this torque are rarely increase top end, but they do help tidy up the engine bay and make the piping shorter when running a fmic if you went ff plenum and the 3540 you will not decrease lag as plenum design is much more important than the frictional resistance of a metre of pipe
  22. Thats way overkill for 250+kw Neo highflow will max out at about 260 and be waaaaaaay more responsive than the 3540 In the fat lard that is a stagea you will probably find response makes them faster than absolute power
  23. hopefully they are right, when i went through this process i had to get genuine because no aftermarket ones existed that matched the originals all the r33 rwd ones had a smaller taper section than the awd ones
  24. im not 100% on the plug, but they give you the right one anyway and its just 2 crimp connectors to change it over also, make sure you get the one with the 45 degree filter, not the straight one, i think the 240sx one looked right when i last had a look on their website
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