pipster11

try a new o2 sensor!

yup, the manual ones love gtr offset wheels (being awd and all)

i'll be back up in qld by the end of the week i can come look at it all for you do you still have the stock actuator? from what i can gather hypergear's housings are a little longer than stock, i've been thinking about cutting the actuator rod, tapping both ends and putting a long "nut" in between the cut pieces, a bit like a hks actuator it seems that hypergear's actuators are a bit hit and miss, but 99% of stock ones work fine, but have weaker springs you could also do that to an rb20 one (10psi spring)

just remember, you can always machine metal down, but its hard to add it back on

could end badly the attessa is sensitive enough to play up with worn rear tyres, so running a staggered offset you's have to get tyres that are really close in rolling circumference/diameter offsets would probably be ok, is it for an auto or manual? i forget now

i returned from beaurepairs down here in tas with no split pins in my tierod ends

new o2 sensor today was hoping to pull the pins out of the old plug and swap it over, turns out the neo plug has slightly smaller pins 3 crimp joiners later and i was away, i think the old sensor was ok but for ~$70 it should help on the way back up to qld also half way through waxing it, so its slippery through the air

have a look on www.option1garage.com i know your in vic but they can ship + tyres or just use it as a guide (they sell a lot in gtr offsets which is what you want) i'm planning on getting some gtr-d's in 18x9.5 +12, pending what they look like fitted (and my getting some spare cash for them) i think i worked out you can get a set of 18's + 265 tyres for about $1600 from o1g

cool cool should have a shiny stagea by then

don't really have the $$$ personally to drive that far but if others want to do that they can i'm sort of thinking a quick drive around the 1-2hr mark

Hey Guys As some may know, i'm off up to QLD pretty soon now (8th) Who would be keen for a little meet up? I'm thinking Archers Manor Carpark, then head somewhere for a cruise (won't say where on here cos i got jewed over last time) Sunday, maybe 12pm (thats lunch time btw) See you there! Tom

yup, thats what im going for

dunno about the font but you should really invest in an ecutalk display then you can hook up your laptop to that

thats the guy i got my timing belt kit from $260AUD to my door!!!!!!!! and it was all genuine nissan stuff too (the kit had waterpump and the pulleys too) and it was here pretty quick too

i think this info should be on your website maybe a turbo selection guide would be useful too i've been trying to help out another stagea owner down here with what to get (he has already emailed you) i'm probably going to go down the same path as him too

ahk and the pu is your own custom front cover is it not?

does Kai mean PU?

i just like the idea of dual boost modes plus, i don't trust 99% of mechanics/aligners etc i sometimes take my car to and also, my gf can get a bit carried away future plans are nistune and highflow i hope to keep the stock wastegate, or maybe use an rb20 one and keep the dual boost setup eventually i'll probably end up on just 1 setting, but i like gadgets

ok, so i've been thinking about it, and had a look on the interwebs what about a setup like this? when open, the stock solenoid allows all the pressure to reach the wastegate, when closed the turbotech controls the amount of pressure getting to the wastegate Thoughts?

read the thread at the top of this section, maybe start from the end i run the gulf western semi-synth stuff $33/5litres, and it runs though my stagea better than the nulon did, nulon made my top end a little noisy i know a lot of people bag it out, most of those ppl have never used it at the end of the day it comes down to personal preference, but royalpurple will last 10,000kms as will many oils if your gonna do 5,000km changes (i do too, gw oil gets dark quickly, which means its working) use something decent but not too exxy iu used to run penrite but found gw both are good IMHO, penrite lost me when they added all this "extra 10" nonsense

if it won't run without the afm then you have another problem r32's definitely will run without one, i drove about 5kms without one when my cooler pipe let go (exploded out of the car and into the bush, never saw that one again

i think its mainly popular in the usa i was a member of a usa subaru forum when i had my outback and a few ppl on there used to do it ur supposed to use a thin clean line, warm the car up, raise the revs a little and dip the end of the clear line into some water and suck a little up, maybe 1-2cm's length on a 2-3mm hose supposedly it'll vaporise a little on the way though the manifold and then turn to steam in the motor and clean the carbon out (subaru's apparently get a lot of shit in the heads/valves) don't think i ever did it but yeah, just a little info for you guys maybe i'll try it on my puss-bucket corolla

no but if its tuned really close the the injectors max and something happens that needs some more fuel (hit r&r maybe) then you won't have enough headroom left then you run lean and boom Whats with teh new "Kai" labelling on some of the turbo's on the website? you can get an op6 Kai highflow or a normal one, whats special with the kai?

there is a procedure to get the stock ecu to flash it out or buy a new one check your pcv grommet, mine was cactus and made it idle a little off

dead o2 sensor or dying coilpacks or boost leak