Morten Kiil Finsaas

Looking great! And with the wiring, the important thing is that it works... And anything is better than the origional wiring... I am going to get my car from my cage builder this weekend, so I can finally work on the car again... Good luck with the start up of the engine!

Hi! I need some headlights for a R34 GT-R. Does anyone know where I can get a pair? or who has a pair laying around their garage that I can by? Best Regards Morten Kiil Finsås NORWAY

Hi! I'm going to fit a R324 GT-R Body kit on my R32, and I need some headlights for R34. My question is: Can I use a GT-T headlights or are they physically different than the GT-R? The only GT-R Headlight I have found was this one: JDM Imported Headlights and cost $1,199.95 And I found some used GT-T for $700.00 on E-Bay. Witch of these should I choose, or does anyone have used set of headlights laying that they are willing to sell to me? or know of a cheaper company that sells these headlights? Thanks for the help! Best Regards Morten Kiil Finsås NORWAY

That's one nice looking intake! What is the price, and do they make one that fits L92 heads?

Hello again! Time for some updates! Friday, a week ago, I delivered my car to my roll cage builder. Driving from Bergen to Oslo (Aproximly 550km), over mountains and so on... We used almost 12hours one way... Below you can see how the car looked when we arrived at the builder... I also got parts for the undercarriage. I let the pictures speak for them self:

Yes, I know it does not handle no dynamic picture strings, but why not? can it be activated to handle dynamic strings? All the other forums I am using does handle the dynamic picture string perfectly....

Hi! I am posting a build thread on 4 different sites, including this one. On all the others, I am able to use the following code on them, showing a small image, that can be clicked on, to show a large picture. [url=http://gallery.mac.com/mortenkf/100064/IMG_0172/web.jpg][img=http://gallery.mac.com/mortenkf/100064/IMG_0172.jpg?derivative=medium&source=web.jpg&type=medium&ver=12258385100001][/url] But when i try it here, I get the following message: Because of this, all the pictures in my thread, are huge, making the thread difficult to read. Here I must use the following tag: [img=http://gallery.mac.com/mortenkf/100064/IMG_0172/web.jpg] Is there anything that can be done with this? There is a lot of work, if I need to resizing all the pictures manually, Upload them to this site only, and use the pictures, when It work on 3 of 4 sites already...

Time for some updates. Since the last time, I have been extreamly busy prepping the car for Roll-Cage building, so I havent had time to update any of my build threads... But the following has been done: Engine and Transmission has been taken out The brakes that I installed, is removed, but the disk is till there, or the rims wouldn't fit. The hols that was left over from the removal of old Roll cage, has been welded and grinned, so it looks nice. Mounted a temporary steering wheel, and got the car back on its four wheels. I primed all bear metals, so it will not rust on the trip over the Norwegian mountains in snow storm... Ordered a bunch of parts from Driftworks.com The parts I ordered are listed below. Some of the parts was in rest, and they will send those parts when they arrive, without extra cost. The rest is in town somewhere, they arrived to bergen at 06:00... Whiteline Rear Anti roll bar Whiteline Front Anti roll bar Driftworks R32 GTSt Suspension Arm Kit Poly bushes (4 for the spindels, that cant be changed to Unibals) Solid Subframe bushes Driftworks Total HICAS Eliminator Carbon Fibre Roof Scoop Kaaz 1.5 and 2 way LSD Driftworks Lower Arm Front and Rear S13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34 Driftworks Control System Coilovers Here are the pictures from the work I did:

Nice! I like the mufflers... How much noise does it dampen? I need to go under 90DB on my car, or I cant get it approved for the track... You need to hurry up a bit, or I may finish before you... My car is almost finished up welding, only a couple of days left, and its going to my Roll-Cage builder this weekend... And everything under the car is on its way, so soon its only Electrical, Paint and interior left...

Yeah, I know... But when I sell the engine and gearbox that followed the car for aprox. 2000aud, witch should be possible, I got the chassie for free... including two 18" wheels and two 17" wheels... Thanks! The steel for framing off the gearbox tunnel is suprisingly light.. The hollow square tubing I uses is only 20x20x1(.5?)mm. But since I also fabricated the gearbox mount as a part of the frame, it needed to be a little bit beefy... I do not think the wheight will be a issue. Thanks for the compliment! I am trying to do quality work, so I dont need to worry about things braking during the season...

Yea I know he has these brakes... They are supposed to be good brakes for less money... They are about 1/10th of new simular Brembo brakes (I checked... ), but I do not think they are only 1/10th of the quality eather... And, I just passed 200 images in my gallery for the build... gallery.mac.com/mortenkf

Recently I managed to mount the front suspencion on the car, and the front brakes. But the 18" wheels that I have needs spacers to be mounted... I also managed to mount the whole back wheel suspesion also, but Im missing some small things... The rollcage is removed, only grinding on the old welds and replacing small parts of sheet metal left, and it is ready for rollcage mounting. So this project is on hold util I get back from work in about two wheeks, and the new parts arrives...

I have managed to get some work done on newyears eve... I managed to get the brake pedal assembly mounted, and Im happy with the mounting. I used a friend of mines Master brake cilynders, to check for clearance. Next step is to remove the rollcage and make it ready for the new rollcage. Also I need to install all the old parts for the wheels so I can roll and stear the car when it is at the rollcage builder...

How are the car going? Are you finished? And what are these rumors that you have closed your shop? Are they true?

Have got some work done. The firewall is finished, and gearbox tunnel is finish. And so are the floor is also finished.. I also managed to install the S14 left hand steering and steering column, and it fits great! So the next step is to mount the pedals and everything under the car, so I can get the wheels on. Then I need to remove all the roll-cage bars, so my roll-cage builder can build a new WRC style one in the middle of january. Here are pictures from the gearbox tunnel. The four pannels that is not mounted on the last picture, will be bolted for easy access to the bolts and connectors and so on: Here are pictures from the mounting of the stearing: I also recieved a use carbon wing, in pritty good shape, for sheep amunt of money: Here are pictures of the new front brakes that I recieved early december. The rear brakes are identical, but a little bit smaller. (Front: 356mm, 8pot. rear: 330mm, 6pot.):

Its welded to the old tunnel, and to the new firewall if thats what you mean. Since its also holding the gearbox, It needs to be strong. the steel is a square bar, 20mmx20mm of 1.5mm thick steel, not a solid bar.

Finaly got some work done. Almost done with the gearbox tunnel. The framework of the tunnel is made by 20x20x1.5mm square steel, so I can "Hang" the gearbox from it. It has taken some hours making it, but I think its going to be great. Here are the pictures:

Hi! I have been searching the forum but I havent got any closer to the solution. First of all, I am mounting a Pedalbox from Wilwood, so I need to choose from wilwood master cylinders. Second, I am upgrading my brakes to D2 356, 8Pot front brakes and 330, 6Pot rear brakes. The pedal assembly that I have is this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku I have read that the origional bore on the master cylinder is 25.4mm = 1" The cylinders that I can choose from are: Part No.: 260-3372, Bore: 0.625in, Stroke: 1.300in, Volume: 6,54ml Part No.: 260-3374, Bore: 0.750in, Stroke: 1.100in, Volume: 7,96ml Part No.: 260-1304, Bore: 0.750in, Stroke: 1.400in, Volume: 10,14ml Part No.: 260-6764, Bore: 0.750in, Stroke: 1.430in, Volume: 10,35ml Part No.: 260-3376, Bore: 0.875in, Stroke: 1.200in, Volume: 11,82ml Part No.: 260-3378, Bore: 1.000in, Stroke: 1.000in, Volume: 12,87ml Part No.: 260-6765, Bore: 0.875in, Stroke: 1.430in, Volume: 14,09ml Part No.: 260-7563, Bore: 1.000in, Stroke: 1.100in, Volume: 14,16ml Part No.: 260-3380, Bore: 1.063in, Stroke: 1.000in, Volume: 14,54ml Part No.: 260-6766, Bore: 1.000in, Stroke: 1.430in, Volume: 18,40ml That do you recomend? The pedal assembly has a brake bias control, with one cylinder for front and one for rear. And I found this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku witch ends up prety high on the volume list, and has one output for front left and front right. I dont know what you think about this? or just use a single output and a splitter on the brake line? thanks for the help.

Hi! Time for build update! In the last week I have managed to make a firewall, and im damed proud of it! It is looking nice, and is stiff. I made a firewall out of a plain sheet metal, after I reinstalled the engine: Don't be scared of the small gap between the firewall and transmission, I was needed to go offshore on short notice, so I did not finished cutting it out. If you see the black line, thats where I will cut it when Im back onshore again... Leaving plenty of space to remove transmission with out removing the engine. And the brakes that I ordered the 1. December arrived at my fathers shop the 5. December. and they where huge. Sorry that I do not have any pictures of them yet. Im also struggling with a clutch Master Cylinder and clutch. Options on master Cylinders: I can only use Wilwood master Cylinders, since I have a Wilwood pedal Box: Bore: 0.625in, Stroke: 1.300in, Volume: 6.54ml Bore: 0.750in, Stroke: 1.100in, Volume: 7.96ml Bore: 0.875in, Stroke: 1.200in, Volume: 11.82ml And clutch alternatives: Fidanza Twin Disc Clutch Kits McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch Kits Single Plate clutch (Suggestions?) Origional Corvette LS3 (Followed the engine when I bought it) Please come with suggestions...

Got some picture updates that I forgot to post after disasembly of the car in november:

Hi! Im not shure how technical you are, but the first thing I would have checked when a car is turning but nothing happens, is: 1. Check that you have fuel pressure Different engines has different ways of checking this.... 2. Check that you have a spark. Normaly you could take the plug out and hold it against metal, and turn the ignition, and a spak should apair. But remember to eather disconect fuel line or disconect all sparkplugs. And if you have all of this, it should start, and it may be bad fuel or timing is way of or something like that.

Looks like you are soon finihed, and it is looking great! You must upload more photos and video clip from first startup... I want to hear it roar!! Do you have more pictures from the engine bay and interior?

More updates... My sandblaster dude had taken a vacation, so I did not send the car off to be sandblasted. Instead I manually removed the sound isolation on the floor. I also started on the firewall, and hopefully I will be finished with it at the end of this week. I also got my new air filter kit from K&N Air filter. The kit is for 2007 Corvette LS7, and it is HUGE! and my new brakes are on the way from Performance Guru, James. D2 356 8Pot front brake Kit, 330, 6pot rear Brake Kit. So parts are poring inn, and car is being worked on.

Nice! Not long now until you can start it... From witch car does the headers come from? Pontiac GTO? And what are the spec on the headers?

Looking nice! I hope you didn't mount the heads the way you are about to in the bottom left picture... It shows your about to mount the head in the wrong direction... (Exhaust port to the intake side...)