Morten Kiil Finsaas

Time for some updates... Yesterday, I managed to strip out my R32... I removed the engine and transmission, Doors, trunk hood, rear lights and a lot of boxes that I do not know what was, and probably will never use. I also manage to remove the back axle cradle with everything on, so the car is practically completely stripped out... Today I will try and get everything removed from the cradle and I will deliver the shell and the cradle to sandblasting to remove all the rust, and primed, so it will not rust again. Then when I receive it again, I can start on the Firewall and gearbox tunnel. I will also try changing from the ball thing used on the spindle for the HICAS to a bushing like the one on S13/S14. If the S13/S14 does not fit, I will make something similar... Here are some pictures, sorry for the large size:

Thanks! Im trying to build with the best quality, and don´t spare the money, so I do not need to use next year fixing the car after each race... Specially since I have a work that require a lot of travel and so on... If I just can keep the work process up like I have so far, I may actually make my deadline...

I have managed to do some minor but important work on the car. I have fastened the gearbox temporarily with bolts, instead of letting it hang loosely, since Im starting on the firewall and gearbox tunnel. A lot of the welds on the firewall and gearbox tunnel, was relay bad, so I managed to loosen them with a crowbar. Not good... I also have made a decision on making a dual 2,5" exhaust, and most likely taking out one on each side, thru the side of the car, in front of the rear wheel. The reason for making a 2,5" exhaust instead of 3", are because all of the headers I have located for the engine that will fit, has a 2,5" collector.

Forklift is a must in large garages... As you can see, we also have a Triumph TR7 on the "shelf" on the opposite side of the garage as you can see in one of the pictures...

If you are thinking about the car on the shelf, top right: It is a Pontiac Firebird, 1971, not a corvette. My father has owned it for around 18-20 years. And it has never been finished...

This is mine, My father and brothers private Work shop. Specs: Area: Aprox. 600 sqm Facilities: Professional Paint Booth Brake Tester 1 large air compressor 3 car lifters and a lot of tools.... In the pictures, it is quite messy, but we are still assembling the Paint booth, and we have a few cars... These are pictures from the first room, where the paintboot is located: This is the main work area:

YES!!!! Finally finished with the engine mounts... I finished the engine mount, and engine is sitting low and nice. I decided to use a 12mm bolt to bolt the engine mounts together. Next up is the Firewall and transmission tunnel. Here are some pictures:

How much parts do you need to change to use E85? I heard that from stock, you only need to change the injector, fuelpump and fuel filter and it should be able with a tune to run E85, or am I mistaking?

Sounds like excellent news! 11:1 is a good compression ratio, a little higher than original... Cant wait to see/hear a video of the engine roaring...

The ting with this oil pan is that it does not have a oil filter mount... It has two AN-10 connector where the oil lines come from the engine. This is on the back right on the engine, seeing the engine from the front of the engine. The oil pan is a bit large oil sump, so you should get the measurements on the oil pan, and measure that you have the clearance. I needed to make my own engine mount, to get it to fit properly. But this can also bee that I was weary picky about where to mount the engine... Low as possible, and as far back as possible...

Absolutely at the latest, is the beginning of the Norwegian 2009 Drifting season. Think its in april/may or something... But my personal goal is january/february...

It have been a long time since last update. I have done some small, but important things. Unlike other people who are converting to V8, I am fabricating a new subframe and engine mounts from scratch. The subframe, I modefied, but the rest is made from scratch. The steel I used for the subframe is the same size as origional, 4mm thick. I used somekind of polyplastic or something like that as a bushing. You can see the rod here: Here you can see the "plan drawings": I am thinking about lifting the engine ut 1 cm. but Im affraid that it would stick to far up in the engine bay. I am also thinking about making it a Left Hand Drive car (this is the normal driving side in Norway), because it would solve a lot of clearing issues with the steering. But I would like too keep it a RHD since it is originally like that.... I also bought a pair of AEM UEGO Wideband Sensors for use on the LS3 engine: Here are some build pictures from the building of the engine mounts:

Long time since last update, but as you all know, I have been busy building a paint booth for the workshop... But I have managed to do something on my car. A week a go I received my new oil pan. I looked solid and great. Old Pickup Tube New Pickup Tube When I was trying to mount the oil pan, I noticed two things.. One of the holes for the bolts on the right side was not drilled, and the holes long holes in the back, was almost welded shut. These was easily fixed, with a drill, and the bolt patters was on the new oil pan gasket. Besides that It fitted perfectly onto my LS3 engine, I was a little sceptic at first, since it is designed for a LS1 engine... I needed to tap a 1/4" NPT hole where the origional oil dip stick went, and insert this blind plug. The blind plug came with the kit. This was the hole that was missing. Old Oil Pan I also managed to get the engine placed inside the car. I have not yet made the engine brackets, because I am still looking for reinforced R32 engine mounts (Nismo or something like that) that I can use as a base for the new engine mounts. There are a few things I am probably are going to modify on the oil pan, because it is a little to wide at the cross member, so I think Im going to cut it in a bit at the corners, and the oil sump is a little to deep, so I cant get the engine as low as I wanted, but I cant do anything with that. And I need to make a solid skid plate to protect the oil pan. Overall I am really happy with the oil pan, and the "faults" that I found, is only minor, and this is not built for a R32, but for a S14, so minor adjustments I was expecting... We also had this season last Norwegian Drifting Race, and it was the first one that was held here in Bergen where I live, and it was a huge success.. Some pictures can bee seen here: Curbz.org - Pictures (Norwegian Text) And a short video can be seen here: And My brother finished third, with only the two best Norwegian drifters over him... Pictures borrowed from HHENR.COM My brother is driving the blue 200SX S14.5.

I have sent you a PM on the body kit...

I have a small update. I just bought a complete body kit, HiFlex Type-332, R324 Conversion Kit. They had a special offer, so I got the 9Pc kit with shipment for $2000... Kit cost $799... Some pictures, borrowed from www.raceonusa.com

I don´t know about that... the car is going to be sitting there the next month or two, while waiting for more parts and during the building of a Paint Booth... When do you think you are finished with your car? Can´t wait too see it finished...

First season Im driving standard, and if I see that I need a wider power band, then I ether mount Twin turbo or a Supercharger. But thats a dream, and need too see how next season works out.

Today, I managed to try the engine in the car. I found out that I need a new oil pan, or the engine is ending up way far back, as you can see on the picture below: But the engine is not ending up that far in front either, as you can se on the pictures below. The engine is going down when I install the new oil pan on the engine. (Picture is borrowed from Sikky Racing) The oil pan above is the oil pan I am ordering. I am also ordering a lot of parts from Summit Racing. Radiator, Griffin, 27.5" length, 19" hight, 3.75" width Flex-A-Lite Oil Cooler, 10.5"x15",4.25" including Fan Earls Performance Oil Cooler (Transmission), 5.875"x13"x2" Tilton Engineering 12V Oil Pump, 1-2GPM, 60psi and some Steel Braided lines, and AN connectors. This is the shopping list for now, but can change, or things be added, but I think I remembered the most important things. And here are some more pictures:

As I stated earlier, everyone has their right for their own oppinion, and I appreciate all feedbaks I get even if not all are too positive. This helps me a lot in coice of parts and what to do with them. As with the oil pan, I am placing a order for a racing oil pan, with front sump and oil baffle. As for oil cooler, I have looked into a Oilcooler, that is 15"x10.5" and fan on it. I have not upgraded the syncros, but the transmission is brand new, and hoping that it will last one season, an then do a overhaul and upgrade on the transmission. As for overheating, I am looking into how to mount a oil cooler on the transmission, I have found a 12V external oil pump and cooler, it just how to get the oil out of the transmission and back in. But thanks for the input.

Thanks! I am hoping to have the car finished and in dyno in January/February. When I have video of the car in action, I will upload it to YouTube and post it here.

First of all, if you have read this thread thou, I have not the standard Cam and heads, but performance cam and heads, but still standard internals. I do not have the dyno papers jet (They will come when the car has been on Dyno in January), but by only changing the heads and manifold, I have seen a Dyno paper on a Engine that produced 535HP here in norway, I do not remember the torque. The NM produced by the original Engine according to SAE measuring, and showed on the web pages of GMPerfomance.com is 584.76nm. If you have a Standard R32, it would not be too much work setting in a LS1/LS2/LS3 engine, because you get new oil pan that fits S13/S14 and should fit R32/33/34 and engine and transmission mounts. Then it is just wire up the engine and start it. A lot of this work Im doing on this car, is fixing after the last person who had the car, and even if I fitted a R25 engine I still would have had all this work. Everyone is allowed to have there own oppinoin...

Yeah I saw it... Who has the rights to change it? is it something everyone can do?

Good one! Well, I am actually trying to resuscitate this R32, since it already have been "killed" by his previous owner...

Today I got some more work done on the car, I finished welding in new sheet metal and grinding and rust protect the welds. As you can se from the picture below, there were some terrible sheet metals and rust where the reinforcement where welded onto the suspension tower (Is that the correct word?) I also removed more "unwanted" things from the car, like the handbrake cables and handbrake, Fuel lines, brake lines and Clutch lines. When removing the clutch line, I discovered a metal thing, and was wondering what it was, I have seen it before on a S13, but not on S14. Does anyone know? The car is now ready for first try fit of the engine and transmission. I am aiming to do that tomorrow, so I can set the needed parts in order. When the parts are ordered, its probably going to bee proximally 1 month before I do anything else on the car, because, we are beginning to do "Spring cleaning" in the garage from friday, and when that is done, we are mounting a paint booth in our work shop, but I will keep everyone updated as I go along... I also took some more pictures of the work done from the previous owner on the firewall and transmission tunnel...

1. Standard RB25 does not produce 600BHP standard, like my LS3, It will have 500RWHP, approx. 600BHP on the crank. No internal modification 2. Standard RB25 does not produce 600 NM of torque, LS3 has 530NM torque as standard, mine has more. 3. I got the chassis for 1000$, with the engine and transmission (V10) that I can sell for 1500$. My first choice was a 200SX S14a, but I did not have 10 000$ to spend too rip the engine out and so on. 4. Im not intended to sell the car, just drive it. We have couple of other people here in Norway that has install LS1 engine in their 200SX S13/S14/S15 and likes it. I produce twice the power, twice the torque as them, so it should work. And one more thing, The LS3 is a complete Aluminum engine, and weighs less than an RB25 engine. As for the price, I got my engine for less, brand new with transmission and everything I needed, for less than a RB25 with 400-450 BHP and can manage the beating on a Drift Circuit.