chooka29

Do you still have the rear wiper arm assembly??

Coil overs??

My preference would be for a Nismo GT LSD Pro TT 1.5 way (try saying that 10 times really fast!) I heard that these are the bomb for street use and not as full-on as the track spec Pro and 2 way LSD's. Try Pro Concept in West Ryde down your neck of the woods for these.

Hey all, I think that some people are losing sight of what is right for their car. Clutches are like horses for courses - you gotta have the right set up for the intended use. Being able to handle the power output is one thing, but how it's being used (street, drag, drift, curcuit) as well as the actual weight of the car comes into play also. It's no good putting a 600hp capable clutch into a 1600kg car if it can't handle the intial torque transfer to get the car moving. Part of this comes from the friction material used and the clamping force of the pressure plate, as well as the way the clutch engages. It's why factory clutches last quite a while (even some abused examples) as they are matched to the intended use. Just something to bear in mind...

They don't make Motul 4000 Motion any more - i've been using 4100 Turbolight 10W-40 in my r34 - excellent oil pressure even when i've thrashed it around qld raceway at a track day last month - same oil in there now and the oil pressure is still THE SAME!!! pretty damn good for a semi-synthetic! if you want a better option try 8100 X-cess 5W-40 100% synthetic (used this one before too - bit more expensive) or 300V chrono 10W-40. if yor engine is freshly built and not run in DON'T USE ANY SYNTHETIC OR FRICTION MODIFIED OIL!!!! it will stop your rings from bedding in properly (because of the firiction modifiers) and cause the engine to basically be in the same state as if it were badly worn! once the engine is properly run in you can dump the running-in oil and put the good stuff in!