Travis Trayhern

think std springs would only be good for 350-400kw i know im going to change them but what with is the question lol tomie type A?

Hi all, Just a quick one, Just getting a build sorted and just at the head work stage, going to just drop in some tomie B poncams, what springs should i dropin to acompany these cams? I know std is ok but forged bottem end, head had basic porting turbo still undecided but going to be around 400-500kwpower range looked at the tomie range but they seem more suited for big lift cams? Looked at Tomie Range http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tomei-Valve...sQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tomei-Valve...sQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tomei-Valve...sQ5fAccessories Others http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Manley-Valv...sQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supertech-V...sQ5fAccessories

oh and get yourself all new dump studs and bolts so add another $40 just while your at it

ill do it for $400 + beer haha but yeh its a big job, i can do it in around 4 hrs now turbos on and off, but i have done it that many times i have lost count, if you do it yourself expect to be there the whole day and night but all fun just get some steel wheel turbos in there you can get them for around the $1000 mark, all new gaskets so another $60 and a pair of ss dump $300 and ur all good to go.

You can get obx manifolds for about 450 delivered, USA exchange is realy good atm. But with -5 I'd stick with the std manifolds ported.

it will be better in the long run to replace with some bigger ones. but this also means a new ecu or remap the cheaper option is aim for a lower power

i have obx dumps in my gtr and are good, i orded obx manifold and they didnt fit so they where send back and gave my money back and i spent 4hr porting the std manifolds that flow great. apart from them not fitting as the should they looked good lol i was just short on time to wait another 4 wks for another set to arrive or i would have. they also come with a very good warranty life time warranty i think?

so there has been no power loss, actually getting a faster spool up by 500rpm when compaired to my last tune afr are reading good 12.0 12.5 just shit loads of black smoke

the tuner and myself have exhausted all options and cant work it out. we are pulling the injectors out to get cc just to check there all flowing the same. car was running fine prior to turbos being repaired. was doing some maintance and noticed my comp wheel on both turbos had some wear on the blades, so took of and had comp wheels replaced. when i was putting turbos back on a few things changed, -std bov removed and replaced with blitz atmo bovs hole blocked in intake. -catch can changed to a filter and pipe to intake removed and blocked -HKS twin power ignition installed trailer the car to dyno because after reinstalling everything noticed it running rich. so there just for a quick touch up re-tune. car is making power no power loss at all 360awkw@6500 straight up and running good afr's 12.5 -12.0 the car is just bellowing out black smoke and alot of it. so what will cause good afr's readings but clearly excess fuel coming out without showing on the afr metre? tuner is not comfy leaning it out anymore as there is clearly something up with the amount of smoke coming out.

hmmm all very intresting indeed. i will open the plugs up to a 1.0 in saying that 12.0 is still abit rich what should i be looking for.

im thinking of opening it up, i have just installed a HKS twin spark system so what gap should i start with?

Turbos didnt fully crap themselfs, i was doing some maintance checks and fould my comp wheels abit chewed up, so just had new front wheel put on. if it was burning oil it wouldnt be black smoke would be blue. also you can smell that it def fuel. its running a pfc pro reguards to plugs running .7 gap and not sure what heat range, same as what we have always run tuner has them in bulk lol

yes very black plugs all over carbon built up after a few runs on dyno with new plugs

only when it get into load the dyno room starts filling up with smoke and fumes on idle and cruze its fine. the reason for the retune in the first place is i had some crap go threw my turbos, had the turbo wheels replaced and fitted them backup. changed the catch can setup from intake sucktion to just atmo filter. also put the blitz bovs on and hks twin power. when its a full noise and bellowing out black smoke the afr are reading a perfect 12.0 that why its got us stumped. we even wiped the tune and started again but same thing. super polished combustion chamber why would this cause bellows of black smoke? the head was ported and polished and also the combustion chambers where polished but cant see that being the reson for the smoke. and i dont mean a little puff of black smoke, it filles the whole dyno room in a power run its that bad. but power is there 375awkw on pump fuel straight up

its twin seperated from the turos right back, sensor was put in both tail pipes both read identical so this ruled out the first 3 and last 3 cylin runnin differnt also the exhaust has 02 ports just after dumps, put in both sides up front and same thing reads perfect A/F ratios

first a quick run down of whats going on any help would be great as we have exhasted all options. its on the dyno getting a tune the A/F perfect 12.0 threw the rev range but just excess fuel black smoke coming out of the exhaust. now we have changed O2 sensors on the dyno A/F reader also borrowed another one from another tuning shop down the road, both read fine and identical when charts compaired. pulled my car off and put a differnt car on the double check and the sensor is reading perfect. now there is no power loss and response is great but just excessive black smoke and fumes/fuel you can smell it. put a brand new O2 sensor in can come out black as f*** also changed plugs after and where realy carboned up. run down on engine fully forged head work cams tomie b -5 turbos pfc pro z32 afm's full race twin kotomoto exhaust dumps hard piping kit intake and cooler blitz bovs hks twin power cdi yellow jakets coils 800cc sard tomie reg 044 surge tank hks cam gears any ideas would be great cheers

The first year it was run i entred in it i was only 17 had an old supra and just drifted most of the course just had a ball, the location is just tops also you can chill all day, and you mates can come with an esky full of beer and just watch and drink also.

Yes you need a L2s CAMs licence. Bellow are the only restrictions anyone can entre any car you dont need a cage, last 2 years i have run a non cams approved cage. Rear-engine cars cannot be accepted unless they are production cars with substantial body work and bulkhead forward of the cockpit, due to the configuration of the safety rail (Armco). 15. FIRE EXTINGUISHER: All competing vehicles shall carry a properly affixed Fire Extinguisher complying with the provisions of Schedule H of the CAMS Manual. 20. CLOTHING: Safety helmets, as to AS1698 standard (or otherwise to the standard listed in Schedule D of the 2010 CAMS Manual) are mandatory. Clothing of a non-flammable material shall extend from neck to wrist and ankle. All open Sports and Racing Car drivers must wear goggles or a visor to AS 1609/1981. Goggles with glass lenses, whether laminated or not are unacceptable. Driving suits and gloves are encouraged but are not mandatory.

haha ok then might be worth selling and just buying a matching rear set

Hi Everyone, Just thought i would post up my local towns major event. Legend of the Lakes Hillclimb, 450km from Melbourne. I race every year at the event and one of the top runners there, last few years they was limited spots free this year they have extended the running over 3 days so more spots have opened up. The location is great and the whole weekend is just great. Entrys are limited so you will have to be quick but would like to see some fellow skylines there. Have attached some footage of the climb from past years have a look, This is one of my runs Club web site, Entrys forms can be found in the events page. http://www.seacsa.com/hill_climb.htm

Hi all, Just looking at a new Front upgrade kit on my r33 GTR, Just had an idea to move the front brembos to the rear with the 330mm 2 pc slotted rotors. Is there anyone out there that has done this? Also is there a ready made brake braket to space the caliper out? Though this might be a cheaper option that doing front and rear upgrade and save some coin $$$

nothing wrong with yellow jackets. im pushing 400awkw with them and not an issue. i point to the tune/tuner

radar detectors +++++++1billon lol have always had them, been caught once with one in SA the patrol car had a radar detect detector and it worked and i got a $250 fine no points i was suprized. guess what i did when i went back home jumped online and bought a new model with VG2 undetectatable, tested it on same patrol car a few weeks later and not a problem. been fine ever since. there about $400 to buy, not sure what the fines are over here in vic. i hardly use mine anymore only doing long trips back to the country. if i ever got pulled over use to shove it down my undies lol BUT! when i got caught by the patrol car with the detector detector, he showed me the rights he had to search the car and then if not found take me into the station for a strip search. i asked him you sure you want it? then pulled it out my pants haha.

if they have the same shifter setup i guess they would. all i know is it wont fit a vl or gtr as i have tried. was orded for a r33 gtst box, who i orded it for sold his car before it arrived and now im stuck with it, hence the try's if it would fit on one of my other cars.

was 100% for a rb25 box price is firm also no offers. had a few pm's