Travis Trayhern

i bought a set for my r33 gtr when it was std had to replace the t3 flange gasket so did all gaskets on turbo side while i was in there and put the braided lines back in. now after a new engine multi time iv pulled the turbos on and off i dont regret it, they are worth every cent take turbo installation time down by half, i can rip turbos off and back on in 2 1/2 hours now. went to replace a mates turbos in his r32 with re using stock lines was a hell of a job the time you waist in the std lines pays for the braided lines over.

Hi, Have one new OGR short shifter for r33 gtst, has been trial fitted to a vl box but dont fit as there throw is a inch differnt. so has a few scratch marks where bolts been done up. this will fit r33 gtst gearboxs, this isnt the cheapo add on type you unbolt the whole shifter 6 bolts and replace the whole setup with this one. $90 pickup or $10 shipping msg me 0416250596 Travis Trayhern

Still up for grabs

Hi all, Have my old rb26 block and cradle for sale come out of my 1998 r33 gtr after it cracked a ringland. just need a bore and good to go. $400 if you want the extra bits like std baffles/oil pump/water pump few other bit like alloy engine mounts an extra $100 box of bits even std water hose's for the engine. have also got a buggred r33 gtr crank that came out of it has spun a bearing on no.1 to fix will need to be welded and re-ground. $100 take the lot for $600 phone 0430919312 all located at my tuners in preston.

do you mean pvc valve? what im thinking off is the valve thats on you plenum that pipes to the top of your rocket covers then to your intake? if so, leave it in if you have a std engine there is no need or any gains in removing. if running a mild/wild engine i recomend removing anything running 1.4 bar + as this valve can jam up and you will get boost jamed into your rocket covers and oil squrting out every posible place in about 20 sec flat lol work this one out for experience had my catch can over flow in a 2 min drive and turned out to be the pvc valve broken.

dba rotors sold

gtr r33 dba 4000 rotors $400 $350 $300

gtr r33 crank $500 gtr r33 block $400 gtr r33 dba 4000 rotors $400 $350 rb26 greaddy timing belt $150 $135 r33 gtr sump/diff $350 xtd superlight flywheel $250 SOLD awaiting payment jim berry clutch pull type $200 SOLD awaiting payment new falken 285/35/18 slicks pair $400

im located in Melbourne and pickup can be arranged

gtr r33 crank $500 gtr r33 block $400 gtr r33 dba 4000 rotors $400 rb26 greaddy timing belt $150 r33 gtr sump/diff $350 xtd superlight flywheel $250 jim berry clutch pull type $200 new falken 285/35/18 slicks pair $400

hang on you got the gtr 4wd system in there............. dam thats kool

offers welcome for all parts.

just got a email from Nathan, pit crew pases can be pre purchased at $50 a head so it works out well

all im saying is if ppl realize they are now going to be paying more than if they kept there mounts shut and paid the $880 first up. fair enough if you have no friends and your going by yourself it will work out cheaper for you.

the new prices arnt really cheaper! that entry dosnt include any pit crew passes so $675 + 3 crew a $100 for the weekend = $975 all they did was make it look better the initial cost i like the last cost $88o and 3 pit crew passes for the weekend!

crank $600 block $400 buy together get free rods/oil pump/water pump caster rods sold

dba 4000 front rotoes for r33 gtr $500 hardly used luck to have bead the pads in still has heat paint markers on side of rotors.

greaddy timing belt rb26 brand new $170

Clutch/flywheel $600 flywhee is a 12lbs XTD and dosnt need machining just surface discolour from being removed straight after it slipped. bring a metal ruler if you want to check yourself and you will see the surface is perfectly flat.

going to send off to get the new comp wheels in and balance wasnt as pricey as expected $300 a wheel then just balance on each of them. no need to replace whole turbos there is no play or wear in them just chewed up comp wheels. yeh didnt hear anything or even notice any power loss got 375awkw on the dyno only noticed because i removed the inlet to get the air con off. luck i noticed now rather than when a blade goes threw the engine or screwed the turbos completly.

just a quick question thats got me stuped. wouldnt the pressure be greader getting suked into the turbo than the preasure being released by the bov's retune into the turbos intake between afm and turbo? like how is it be posible for slag to try exit the afm before changing direction back in to the turbo?

it only had 500km on it since the bov returns where custom made up and final tune done. and turbos where fine when the pipeing was off the turbos getting welded for the bov returns, so damage would have been done on the dyno getting its race tune. not feeling the love for gtr's anymore. anyone want to buy one? lol

dont want to run the risk of damaging the internal. this engine build was a no expense spared built up its not worthing running chopped out turbos and having the chance a wheel blade breaking off and going threw the engine. engine and turbos only 2000km old i wouldnt call that driving it around for quite some time. 1500km of that was run in and driving it back to south aus. its only had 500km of hard driving if that.

Mate just sent me a few pictures that shop the material was trying to get out b4 it was suked back down into the turbos and a peice of slag that was still rattling in the afm. the only place this could have come from is the bov returns?

just got my mate back home to take the filters off the afm and check, when pulling it apart had a nice rattle inside the afm with a few shakes a 1mm bit of welding slag came out, also the afm's mech where riddled with hole and the hole had been made by the material trying to exit rather than coming from the filter side.