Travis Trayhern

2 NEW FALKEN SLICKS 285x35x18 brand new i have no use for them, i need to buy some semi slicks for superlap. rrp $700 ea imported from japan. im located in melbourne/yarraville for pickup if wanted posted extra $47 each perfer pickup. selling for $350 each which is cheap. call or txt 0416250596 pm might have slow replys as im on holidays drinking.

shim it up bro so its tight as

just a heads up you can buy these at about $3500 at the current exchange rate.

haha im down for the iphone cover aswell! maybe they can just throw one in to sweeten the deal yeh?

put me down aswell for a set if these are 100% carbon

here is some info just quickly for you. did some quick digging. info from http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2297884 This chassis is not the easiest to tune. But it can be setup to be much easier to drive and much more competitive than many make it out to be... But there are things that need fixing, unlike previous generations. Most of the main points have been covered, but I will reiterate some I feel are of great importance: * Steering arm angle. Get this as close to parallel with the ground as you can. Inverted tie rod ends can be used. A fellow over on clubrsx.com has designed a steering arm bracket that raises the mounting point of the inner rod as well. I can tell you first hand it is a very nice piece. * Front caster angle. The more you can get, the better. Look into Kmac camber/caster plates, and consider a set of caster-offset spherical bearings for the front LCAs(Special Project Motorsports). Or if your pockets are deep, Tracy Sports/M&M Honda make LCAs with the spherical bearings already pressed in. I have heard numbers such as 7-11mm of increased offset. What that translates into in degrees of positive caster, I do not know. But expect to pay around $1500 for a pair. * Revalved rear shock absorbers. Koni makes great units... but with the spring rate needed in the rear, they are simply not up to the task. * Stiff rear swaybar. What is the best unit? It is beyond me. NTCustoms and I were just chatting today about a friend he knows who has found many of the aftermarket swaybars for the DC5 to be almost erroneous in design. How much truth there is in this statement I do not know. * Front roll center. Due to the different design of the front and rear suspesion on this chassis, lowering the car evenly will unevenly bias the front and rear roll centers. J's Racing makes a nice looking unit, an offset ball joint which raises the position of the front steering hub in relation to front LCA, theoretically correcting the roll center to a more appropriate level. What is the correct level? I have no clue, and I doubt there are many who do. I have not actually used the J's piece... and the location of the vehicle's roll center (and the corresponding correction required, if any) will almost certainly differ from vehicle to vehicle, depending on setup. The J's Roll Center Adjuster is more of a "best guess" correction. But from what Ive heard and read, it is better than nothing. * Front camber angle. More negative camber! As much as you can get! Well... not really... But with the Mcpherson strut front, the dynamic camber gain via compression of the suspension is almost negligible. And the amount of negative camber attainable is limited... Even when using adjustable camber plates. There are ways around this, such as using 1 or 2 eccentric crash bolts in the strut housing to illicit more camber. Or swapping the front LCAs for the DC5R units. But regardless, you will need a good deal... especially if you are running R-compound tires. Shoot for being able to attain at least 3 degress of negative camber. This should allow you some room for tuning your setup to your liking. * Weight Reduction. This can be said for any car. The lighter it is, the faster you are going to go. But the DC5 is heavy for a Honda. Especially one marketed as a "sporty" car. It weighs in the 2700s stock, which is almost a travesty. The K20 and nicely geared 6speed make up for some of this... but the handling and braking performance suffer. If you can trim a few hundred pounds off the car, great! If you can trim 500 lbs off the car, fantastic!. The last time I had my car (an EM2, same chassis, different body) on the scales, it came in at 2500. It will be getting realigned and cornerweighted next week, and should be around 2400. Not bad, but hardly competition worthy. If you are serious about weight reduction, here are some things to consider: * Ditch the stock seats for some(or 1) aftermarket fixed back seat. Most weight in around 15-20 lbs... vs the 60 lb stockers. * Replace the roof skin with one from a lower model without a sunroof. I am not sure as to the availability of the sunroof on the DC5 chassis, but I believe the Canadian Base level DC5 comes without one. The DC5R also. You could fabricate a sunroof plug if that suits you, but I imagine youd shell out just as much. * Carbon fiber trunk/hood. Not the most weight savings, but they are worth some. And they remove weight on the top of the vehicle, exactly where you don't want it. * Interior panels/pieces. Remove what you don't need. If you can live without sound deadening, remove that too. Ditch the passenger side airbag, and consider an aftermarket steering wheel. Also consider the potential danger in streeting a car like this. * Remove AC if the climate you are in warrants it. I live in Texas, so that is a definite no go. * Reduce as much rotational and unsprung weight as you can. * Driver modification. Hey... this one always needs work. The DC5 might not be the pinnacle of Honda's engineering, but it is far from a lemon. It fits within most "weekend warriors" needs... and then some. Don't get your hopes dashed because the car won't be able to keep up with an 2000lb EK hatch with a Kswap around the track. That is just the nature of the business. If you are actually looking to competitively campaign a car, you should look elsewhere. ... that being said, in regards to driving the car, I have found that it loves anything and everything you can do to rotate the rear. This means learning how to effectively trailbrake into corners, how to left foot brake in situations that require weight transfer off the rear, how to breathe the throttle to allow the rear some room to move, etc... It means spending some quality time with your car, going to driving schools, going to track days/HPDEs, and actually learning the ins and outs of it. Being able to effectively and quickly pilot any car requires time... the DC5 just requires a bit more.

just a quick one with the dc5 you cant really do much to the suspension because of the way they designed the car and how it all works and travels, if you lower them it messes everything up nd make it worse on the track! might look fully sic but isnt. i would do some reading into it. i would spend money on decent rubber cat back exhaust (still can be used in the future if charged) slotted rotors and decent pads anyhow welcome

sounds good then but i had those specs with std caster rods, guess i have to get some then

abs is staying in i guess. and i went with the whiteline suspention aligment setup they have on there site. Race Pack Settings only acheivable with Whiteline alignment kits front Camber -2.25 to -4 front Caster - max front Toe - -0.5 rear Camber -2 -1.5 to -2.5 rear Caster - n/a rear Toe - 0.5

was thinking that upgrading the shoes to the drift spec ones and extending my handbrake leaver.

car is used for hillclimbs and found at 1 event it has a hair pin at top and im losing alot of time without a decent hand brake as the std one wont lock up slicks. yes i was thinking about weight loss also by deleting the abs setup. i dont have much doubt in my driving ability and shall be extending it to the track very soon and into tarmac rallys, hense the brake upgrade as the std brembos are just ok for hillclimbs but wont hold up on the track. i would like to keep abs but the hydralic hand brake is a must, also was thinking with the bigger brake upgrade will deleting the abs have side affects to the brake bias? and have any negative affects? here is a clip of the top runner 1st place around the hair pin http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TxsoyXomLQ this is me im a second slower, and that second can be made up easly with car setup how can i stop my wheels lifting also in tight corners?

hi, just after some info on the gtr r33 abs system and if i should still run it? looking at upgrading to some quite larger brakes also having the the rears on a hydralic hand brake setup. so should i run with the abs or do away with it and if i keep how will i go setting up a hydralic hand brake system?

cheers for the hand with the sites found what im after.

got a genuine front bar already, but i use the car for alot of racing and require the bar to come off and on quickly and have tow points that are attached or cant easy be attached. the genuine front bar is a real pain when the car has to be towed to event. so thought id get a fiberglass one and mount it on quick release studs and have a point for towing come threw to make life abit easyer.

Hi, just wondering if someone can point me in the right direction to find some front bars for my gtr r33, found a vilside copy on ebay awhile back but its gone now and cant seem to find any for the gtr there all for gtst

clutch is no good mate can you return my msgs please i have had it looked at and its warpped like a bannana and cant even get it recondidtioned.

cheap for tonight and tomorrow only $120 take them both someone or $100 just for rear

thanks will give them a buzz tomorow

Hi everyone, i am missing 1 sping in the twin plate nismo clutch and require a new spring, dose anyone have a shagged nismo clutch i can salvage one from? or know where i can get 1 made up tomorrow (tursday) or friday? i have a massive race next weekend and need it fitted by this weekend to get it on the dyno. the race is interstate so i leave friday night. Please help or someone got a used twin plate clutch with some meat on it needs to hold 400awkw lanchs they can sell me?

decat you will notice it straight up, even from a high flowing cat to decat u will notice it, wont give you more outright power but will me smoother and faster response down low. lot of ppl think if it dosnt make more power its not worth it but that 10hp up the top is nothing its the extra 10hp down low you notice. recomend it decat but if you have a white car be prepaired to be clening the stains of your rear bar, and getting high with you windows down at 100kph

sway bars have the mounting loops and rubbers for rear also. come tke them away and give me some cash ppl. need them gone cheap upgrade for your gtst!!! im in yarraville ready for pickup anytime.

have a set of gtr r33 swaybars for sale upgraded to cusco ones on the weekend. good upgrade for gtst i have hurd. $200 in melbourne ready for pickup pm me or msg 0416250596

After a gtr twin plate clutch pull type used with some meat on it in melbourne area. pm me

make me an offer im not sure what they sell for, its in the car atm but this weekend coming i will have it out.

after some r34 gtr rear seats pm me if you have and $$$ you want for them thanks Travis