djr81

Looks CP9200 ish. CP9200 - Forged Front - 152mm Mounting Ctrs | AP Racing

Yeah well his thing is/was petrol. Anyway he now has a newly sleeved 2ZZ. Ryco do a half decent catch can.

A mate of mine did this. Unfortunately he neglected to periodically clean the injection nozzle, which being water/meth clagged up. The motor went fkn bang on account of detonating its brains out.

Turbos are fine, just a bit old school as the hipsters have diluted their gtr purity and gone for singles. They are still good units, however and the blokes with ponytails and beige Volvo dailies can get stuffed. ‘The ecu is a good ecu. You just need a good tuna to tune it. My point wasn’t to put down the setup just to highlight you need someone familiar with rb’s and their idiosyncrasies. .3:1 isn’t earth shattering on the cr. Certainly nothing E85 won’t compensate for in spades if you go that way. So yeah don’t get negative about it. It will work fine and be loads of fun. FWIW I’ve got -5 turbos and a Link ecu.

Yeah never give away cr or even squish unless you absolutely have to. But if the thing is together then go with it. Should run into 400+ Rwhp easy and have a long life doing so.

Send them back and get a higher cr. Yes for the air inlet temp and not what I meant for the tune. See here. Some tunas talk a good game but individual throttle body tunes are beyond them. Where abouts in the world are you?

Assume you have the ballast delete and a new AIT sensor? Plus someone who can tune TPS?

Begs the question what intake air temperature are you running? Because for some models atleast (EG RB26 in an R32) it should be replaced with something less antiquated/faster responding. Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) – From factory the GTR is fitted with an IAT sensor to the inlet manifold and this is supported by the G4+ plug-in. However for best results we recommend an alternative IAT sensor to be fitted to the intercooler pipe just prior to the plenum entrance. This may use the existing IAT wiring or connect to the expansion connector of the ECU.

I had something similar. Vibration under load. So give the thing a squirt and see if you can match the front torque gauge to the vibration. Mine was a pinion/crown wheel on the front diff.

Yeah the Skylines went and then it was all LS valvetrain upgrades and ECU flashes. Now it is all lift kits and DPF deletes. When I occasionally drive my old 32 I see people losing their sh!t at the sight of it. Cant quite reconcile it still.

I was speaking to a Skyline owner who had good things to say about their ABS system. Mind you the discount would want to be epic to be able to justify it.

You stuck at Albemarle? Sorry it is a cultural thing. The only way to show any respect for anything is to relentlessly take the p!ss out of it. On that basis: Mal, your boat appears to be missing a bunghole. A random photo of Bunghole Skyline for those playing at home. As distinct from a Bunghole Skyline of which there appears to be fewer and fewer, sadly.

Yeah dunno. Maybe boats are better than 32’s. Anyway point being you can get decent adjustment without rose joints if it is a road car.

How much offet change do you get with reverse mounting? If they are going from +20 to +?? you may be getting a bit fitment. What size are they anyway 18x9 or 17’s?

The only downside that I found was less compliance/more crash in the suspension when you went over things like train tracks/potholes etc. I went with this sort of thing. NISSAN SKYLINE R33/34 HARDRACE HEAVY DUTY TENSION ROD - Otaku Garage

Wait, what? There are standards for getting into a pub in Bunno? Gentrification must be happening. Flanno and a mullet should get you anywhere.

Hey there is nothing wrong with Bunghole. Sure it’s no Birmingham, but we go alright.😃

Hard to say isnt it. Used to be people wanted an R with modifications but I think (But dont know) they are now more drifting towards wanting the whole purity/cleanliness thing. Certainly nothing starts below $80k that I can see. How much of a premium over that is the question. So, yeah, no help at all then.

I was going to suggest checking Rodney's big ends and/or the turbo but it sounds like a dropped valve or a piston if it goes clunkety clunk and is laying down smoke screens.

Start with a compression check.

Just for posterity I believe there to be an error in the location of the NIsmo bolt hole in the first drawing.

So why not find a tribologist and get the oil tested/checked/looked at?

This sort of thing? https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

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Do what he said. Drop the oil. Look for go fast glitter. If you have a sump full of bits of metal/big end bearing you are up for a rebuild. You don't need to wait for the oil bypass to do this. You can do it now. If you have shiny metal bits in the oil and you have oil pressure back when you restart it then you have won.