djr81

More of an oil heater, really.

Money is the root of the problem. Namely the massive sanctioning fee the V8's want. WA will never have a street race. It could never be made viable. Which is a good thing.

Sequence is roughly like this. At the start of the braking zone. Smash foot onto the brakes ie brake hard as you can without lockup early in the stop. If you need to heel/toe down change do it as early as the road speed allows (ie don't buzz the motor) with the idea of being in the gear you need on corner exit before you turn in. You are still braking as hard as you can at this point. Ease off the brakes as you turn the car in carrying a little brake pressure to the apex to keep the nose interested. (Mostly for GTR's as they are understeering cops) Get on the gas as soon as you can and always bear in mind once on it it stay on it - don't stab at it. On some circuit set ups this may even happen before the apex of the corner. The best advice is buy a book on track driving techniques that includes an explanation of tyre behaviour and chassis behaviour. There is a lot more to it than can be explained in one post let alone one chapter of a book. Try amazon & pitstop for the books.

Two things come to mind: 1. The BOM is the source of information on the weather and atmospherics. 2. Aftermarket BOV's are a waste of time. You are far better off spending money elsewhere.

To be honest I can't see anyone outside of the obvious four teams being competitive. Wonder how Rosberg will go? I think Renault & particularly Williams will struggle. Not sure that any of the new teams will have their act even half together. The Campos rumours sound pretty ugly.

I have done both. Had them re-sleeved and bought new ones (when I wanted an upgrade). There is really nothing wrong with either option.

Got a bit of work to do in a short period of time then.... Torque Split is running fixed with 40-55-60psi in the transfer case (ATTESSA eliminated) - this will make things interesting. Can I ask why you chose to do it that way? Cusco make good, (albeit fixed) sway bars. I would recommend one for the rear, not so much for the front where softer offerings may be better.. Spring rates are dependent on where you are running (ie what track) but also (importantly) on the Attessa set up. With a fixed set up you could arguably afford to increase the rear spring rate relative to the front to help remove understeer.

Just be aware the sun load sensor will give you a fault code when you do the diagnostic & the car is not in the sun.

When you only ever refer to it as "the Nissan" because you can no longer be bothered explaining stuff about it to people who don't already know.

There is a thread where that exact question is asked/answered. Have a search, shouldn't be too hard to find.

Should feel like a turbo diesel compared to RB20 powah. At the end of the day it is a turbo motor & when you start running anything like a sniff of boost (1 bar or better) the peak torque is going to move up the rev range. The issue is, I guess, how to make good torque in the midrange (say 4000rpm) without it dieing in the arse up the top end.

About 4200rpm.

A -5/Poncam B combination will put your maximum torque at 5000rpm or higher depending on what boost you run. The inlet cam on the type A & B is the same cam. The exhaust cam on the type A is, in duration, very little different to the stock cam, just with higher lift & very slightly less advance. Curiously I have seen very few people running -5's with the type A's. I really cannot find a good reason not to use this in place of teh type B's. Also Tomei will sell you inlet cams with a 252, 256, 260, 270, 280 etc etc durations. You can mix & match & don't have to select a type A or a type B set up.

Well that is all that happens when the lines get through the ABS.

It means that longer duration cams work less well at low rpm. Here is a rough chart showing the durations of stock versus Poncams. Pretty obvious but I don't know what the lift is on the stock cams.

I once bought some parts & was sent the incorrect ones by Nengun. I simply got back in contact, explained they had sent stuff for a S13 not an R32 & asked what should I do. They gave me a (local) address to forward the bits to, sent me the correct parts & a nice freebie (unasked for) to make up for the hassle. Bottom line is Nengun are fine if you have sufficient time to spare before receiving the bits. But don't order stuff & expect it to be here by the weekend. I think the most of the problem is some customers who expect too much & are too paranoid and/or impatient.

A Sumitomo caliper equiped R32 GTR (Povvo pack) will have a 1 inch bore size on the master cylinder. A Sumitomo equipped R32 GTR (N1) with no ABS with have a 15/16 inch master cylinder, ie smaller with no ABS. A Brembo equipped R32 GT-R with ABS has a 17/16 inch master cylinder. A Brembo equipped R32 GTR with no ABS has a 1 inch master cylinder. There are two different brands of master cylinder which are seemingly randomly allocated. I can't exactly remember the BM number on the things. I can check the one I have spare at home if you are stuggling.

Which part of the corner are you talking about? Generally you can divide it into four. 1. Braking 2. Turn in 3. Mid corner/apex 4. Corner exit. Clearly you cannot stay on the limit of adhesion during all four parts. But it is a common technique in a GTR to trail brake to during turn in. I usually do. The down side is that it can put you at a difficult spot in the mid corner as the car will want to understeer as you get off the brakes. As for corner exit it is simply a matter of getting the car sufficiently neutral (ie trying to banish the understeer past the apex)so you can get on the powah & also programming the AWD system to keep the car balanced ( ie remove/reduce wheelspin & oversteer) If you watch the formula fords or other low(ish) powered cars with little aero the fast guys are the ones who look a little loose in the midcorner. This allows them to get the power down earlier on corner exit.

Be interested to find out what the stock cams lift & duration are. The numbers in the R32 manual don't make much sense.

What I am saying is stay away from tyres that are supposed to be a half way R compound track tyre. They are a big enough disaster on a circuit but are worse on a quarter mile strip. Those Falkens and Federals are the tyre equivalent of trying to get your missus half pregnant. If you are not that bothered by times ie won't get a proper drag tyre then just go and get a good road tyre & run that. But don't be too upset when the times suck.

So what exactly makes a Federal 595RS good for a drag tyre. The stiff sidewall? The (relatively) hard compound that doesn't soften when you do your pre run burnout? What you are looking at is a tyre with the characteristics of an R compound except for the grip. R compounds are pretty hopeless at the drags so one with less grip is even worse.

So you have decided to ignore all the advice that has been offered. Good work. The Federals & Falkens mentioned are an awful choice.

Feared because he is good or feared because he was the man most likely to have an awesome crash infront/beside/over/behind or generally into you? Having said that, his over taking move around Alonso (?) in Canada a couple/three years back should go down as the pinnacle of awesome.

Good. Be nice to see a Japanese driver with a bit of talent. Nakajima disappointed & Sato was only ok.

Run them (on the track) until you see the white cords hanging out. Then bin them. Make sure you check the inside of the rears especially.