djr81

The rest of the team aren't driving the car. Maybe next year they will have Alonso & Massa then. My point is if you are paying your number one driver shedloads of cash why go out of your way to p!ss him off? Look what Ferrari did to Salo to help Irvine FFS. Then they do this. It is as bad a situation as Mansell at Williams in 93. Did nothing for anyone other than to further inflate Nige's ego. The regular drivers hated it ie Hill & Coulthard because it got in the way of developing the car properly for the long term. Ferrari's season is stuffed anyway. It is just an expensive publicity stunt regardless of any results that may be gotten. My question is at what price will a result this year from Schumacher (whether he gets one or not is a different issue) be to the development of a decent car for next year?

The rest of the team aren't driving the car. Maybe next year they will have Alonso & Massa then. My point is if you are paying your number one driver shedloads of cash why go out of your way to p!ss him off? Look what Ferrari did to Salo to help Irvine FFS. Then they do this. It is as bad a situation as Mansell at Williams in 93. Did nothing for anyone other than to further inflate Nige's ego. The regular drivers hated it ie Hill & Coulthard because it got in the way of developing the car properly for the long term. Ferrari's season is stuffed anyway. It is just an expensive publicity stunt regardless of any results that may be gotten. My question is at what price will a result this year from Schumacher (whether he gets one or not is a different issue) be to the development of a decent car for next year?

He can (will) ruin it simply by his presence. If you have seen Kimi in the pitlane when Schumacher is about you will already have seen how little he is wanted. Schumacher simply serves to divert the teams attention away from their future & their frontline driver(s). Put simply they should have drafted someone who will be of use to them in years to come. Not someone who is out of practice, out of training & generally out of time. As for BMW leaving - four things come to mind: 1. Their 3 year plan for world domination didn't quite come off, did it lads. 2. Serves you bloody well right to abandonining Frank & his team. 3. Speaks poorly of the future of F1 from a manufacturers point of view if one with BMW history & market position can no longer justify it. 4: I blame Chris Bangle. Sure, it's not his fault, but that is not going to stop me blaming him anyway.

On any R32 Skyline & expecially on a GT-R. The photo shows just how much neg camber the inside front tyre has compared to the working side & the rear when its cornering.

Yeah I was just trying to have a laugh based on some of the failings of my set up. BNR#@ took this of mine. Not sure how close to being right it is, but it appears to work ok. It was only the out lap which explains why I missed the apex by a good metre & a bit. You are correct.

Wierd I had the S tune down as 5.5kg/mm front, 4.5kg/mm rear. The other models are harder & yeah the rear is stiffer than the fronts. But htat is probably because their ATTESSA systems work better.

Yes all that magazinbe article showed was that it is pointless testing an oil the same way you would test grease. An oil will generally allow the motor to develop more horepower if it has a lower viscosity & more friction modifiers in it. With regard to how it looks when it is in your sump - usually the blacker it is the better it works to absorb the crap that would otherwise be left in your motor. Ofcourse if it is the oil itself doing this you are in a bit of trouble....

If you did say that you would have it upside down. Softer front spring - more front grip - less understeer (Mostly). But there are many other devices on the car to fix oversteer/understeer & to be honest I wouldn't be overly focussed on using spring rate alone in a GT-R. You should also look at sway bars & camber adjustment.

That is a simple question to ask & a more difficult one to answer. Basically, a softer spring helps generate grip at the end it is fitted. So you get a softer front spring stock than rear. But there are a heap of other factors involved. When you bolt on sticky tyres (eg R comps) you need a stiffer front spring to hold the front end up. You don't increase the rear spring rate in parallel because to do so makes the back end skittish & gives you a car with poor traction. So you never see, for example a 6kg/mm front with a 7 kg/mm rear. If you want a car for the road then the Tein rates will be fine. 5kg/mm & 4kg/mm works ok too. What are the current rears rated at?

For a track car light equals cheap. Skylines are not light for a track car. Typically I would add to the following list. Fuel $100 or more depending on where you go & how many laps you do. Tyre wear: $200 Depends largely on the prevailing weather, how hard you go & what type of tyre you have. Bear in mind road tyres are no cheaper to run on the track than proper track tyres. Brake wear: $100 (pad wear, fluid, rotor wear) Oil: Change it however often you like but a change will be $100 or thereabouts. Factor in whatever of that you like. General wear & tear: You will break stuff and/or wear it out. Don't be surprised when this happens. It is hard to be adament about what it may cost you. I have seen people turn up, twat about 10 seconds off the pace & go home with a car than looks brand new. On the other hand if you go hard with a car that is not set up quite right (& it wont be unless you have spent alot of time/money doing so) you can trash tyres/brakes etc in pretty short order. At then end of the day if you want cheap track time get a light car. It used to be the Ford Escort but lately it appears the Honda Civic is the thing to run.

Soft I tells ya, soft. Real men run too soft a spring rate & try & make up for dynamic camber changes with too much neg camber. It almost works - until you have to get the car working in slow speed corners.....

The old Nissan ones need pressing to get out. The new (whiteline) ones if that is what you are using don't need a press.

Flush ones do look better but they may not fit. You need to check.

There is a rubber chicken prize for whomever can stop a GT-R from understeering. I have my hopes. The rear anti roll bar I made out of scaffold tube should hoik that inside rear atleast 3 inches off the deck. Being serious it is no good having traction in a car that won't go around a corner. Traction is easy to get in a GT-R. Finding front end grip is very hard. But the Baron is right. VH Commodore & R32 GT-R. Same same.

Based on some scientific sampling of the 8327 threads on this subject there are two people who favour running larger rears tyres on the rear of an R32 GT-R. Neither of them should be listened to. There are many good reasons not to. There are no good reasons for doing so. Try a search.

Because you can't just click a link. Roughly in order you need to Select an event. Get a membership to a club. Get a licence (be it for the day or for the year). Prepare your car for scrutineering with typical requirements over normal roadworthiness being: Tagged fire extinguisher. Blue triangle Valve caps on the tyres. Tow hooks. Prepare yourself Long sleeves in cotton. Helmet. Prepare your car for the track typically needing things such as: New and or proper brake fluid. Decent brake pads. Good rotors. Cooling system up to scratch. Engine in good nick. Good suspension. And all that is before you get to the point of thinking about going quickly. Which is somewhat more than just clicking on a link. Most people look at that & think it is too hard. Which it isn't really. A selection of what events are on soon: http://www.cams.com.au/Sport/Events/Event%...;to=&page=1

Well think about what you have done to the brakes. The rotor is much larger in diameter 290ish vs 360mm. So there is 20% more torque for a similar amount of force. The CP5555 (I guess that is the calliper?) has a smaller piston area than a Sumitomo & will be stiffer. Which aligns with what you are observing.

Here then. Facilities: Wanneroo Raceway. www.wascc.com.au Collie motorplex. www.motoringsouthwest.org.au AHG centre www.dtec.com.au Kwinana raceway (drags) www.motorplex.com.au Stuff you need to hit a circuit. Cams affiliated car club memership eg http://www.cams.com.au/en/Sport/Club%20Zon...e=WA&page=1 Cams L2S licence. www.cams.com.au Licence menu here - you need a L2S for sprints/hillclimbs which in turn requires club membership. http://www.cams.com.au/en/Development/Get%...ce%20Types.aspx Series and/or events and/or clubs that runs events (just some of the many) Speed event series. www.speedeventseries.com No limits events at Wanneroo http://www.nolimitevents.com/news.php (An event on tonight I believe) State sprint thingies http://www.dtec.com.au/ That took 5 minutes & was off the top of my head. There are numerous car clubs who want members & organise events too. The unfortunate reality is very few people can ever be bothered turning up to have a look see, let alone enter, let alone do it properly. My argument is this (& does not in any way relate to the people unfortunate enough to be involved in the incident mentioned in this thread): If all you know about someone is that they are happy to disregard road rules why would you want them on a race track anywhere near you or your car? Clearly you don't. So why do people argue that hoons need facilities & that the hard working folk who manage/run them ought to provide their services to fkwits. Sorry if that sounds harsh, but there it is. On the other hand you will find anyone involved in motorport will be more than happy to help & be genuinely interested if you want to do something properly. Me included.

It has been asked and answered any number of times. The reality is that most people who say they want to participate don't. They either have unrealistic expectations (eg it should cost next to nothing and be just round the corner) or are put off by it being competitive or by it being a controlled environment or any number of other reasons. Which is fine. But it is not like there are any secrets about where to go or who to talk to.

I dunno, not like I have any idea what I am on about. If you look at the photo you will see my pos. Bearing cover is missing paint, hub is a lovely shade of iron oxide & the open ended nuts are bleeding red where they exposed metal on the studs & then got wet. So yeah, tough in a adandoned shopping trolley kind of way. You can remove the bearing cap & paint or anodise that. Then use a shiney new split pin. Also the hub centre can be cleaned up & painted a bit too. Or just get some caps & stay away from the kerbs & carparks.

A few things: Be careful because on some of the Volk rims the flat caps (the ones in the first photo) don't clear the wheel bearing cap on some rims. It is common to lose the damn things when you kerb hop at the track. You can get them from Greenline/Nengun etc cheaper. It may just be easier to neaten up the bearing cap eg paint/anodise it & use a shiney split pin.

Phark I run out of talent parallel parking in town. Yes the bolted connection where the LCA meets the castor rod is solid. As in 2 times M12 worth of solid. No clearance fit on the bolts, either. Most of the compliance in the stock R32 is in the castor rod. Shop alignment is for pussies. Just do it by eye. Because I can't manage to read 87 pages of stuff & turned up late - did you change out the upper inner arm bracket (that bolts to the chassis?) Looks to be stock. If so next time you have a chance pull the spring/shock out - disconnect the sway bar & articulate the suspension, ie check if it binds. I am pretty sure this was at the heart of the issues I had with bushes lasting 10 minutes or 10 kms, whichever was the least. Oh and those Cusco upper arms are heavy bastard things.

Try half the 12 & 10kg/mm rates listed, ie 6 & 5 kg/mm. Which sounds like it is well outside the window for the shocks.

Gold. Some things to remember. 1. If the engine bay is smoking then people tend to get excited & reef the bonnet open. Which is a great way of flaring the fire up & getting a face full of flame. So do it slowly. 2. The best way of fighting a fire with a 1kg extinguisher is to throw the said extinguisher at the fire & bravely run to the nearest mashalling post. But like teh Baron says it will be the highlight of the said marshals day & a nightmare for you cleaning it all up. Which you should do as soon as is practically possible as that stuff eats electrical connections and alot of other things besides. 3. You R35 owners need to harden up. Nothing shows pride of ownership like tec screwing the extinguisher bracket to the floor of your car. Just try not to put a screw through a fuel line.

Well the answer to both those points is same. I live in the country. Unlike the prevailing attitude of just about everyone who lives in Perth/other random capital city I long ago made the realisation that doing stuff takes time, effort & involves some degree of sacrifice. So yeah it is a 3 hour drive to go to Wanneroo, just like it is 2 & a bit hours to go & watch the cricket, the rugby or to attend a decent concert. You will find that most people who live in the sticks understand that & get on with life anyway. It is a city based mentality that requires everything to be presented on a plate.