djr81

Phark commercial digital tellie. What is that? We don't get any at all where I am. Never mind HD. Here is a rough explanation of what Williams & Toyota have done with the diffuser/crash structure . http://www.formula1.com/news/technical/2009/0/623.html http://www.formula1.com/news/technical/2009/0/622.html

Just so you understand. An R33 GTS-T is to the world of imports what a Kenny Gee album is to the world of music.

Imported R31's, model for model weigh very close to the 32's. Certainly not the 33's. The red top RB20 in them is, again, similar to the silver top version in the 32's. There is nothing particularly wrong with their suspension - it was a vast improvement over the R30's. The imports have IRS, albeit not quite as good as the 32's. As for a 33 - well yet another 33 GTS-T will really stand out, wont it. Personally I wouldn't go near an Australian built R31 unless maybe it was an SVD version. Even then it would only be for its oddball nature. But the 2 door imports can look good if done properly. They share much or their parts with the later models. Plus every man & his dog won't have one just like it.

That would be an import R31 - a GTS-X.

Stuff that. Find someone who has finished wrecking their car. Give them $20. Turn up with a screw driver & a few spanners. Go nuts.

Seriously, if the frame of a house gets hot enough to permanently change its composition then there is going to be so little left of the house its not worth worrying about. One of the great strengths of carbon steels is their ability to deal with changes in temperature without undue expansion/contraction or without losing significant strength. You cannot say that of materials such as stainless steel, aluminium or even wood. Also buckling is far more a property of design than of materials. As is stiffness. Do not confuse stiffness with strength. They are two different proerties. As you say timber frames will flex & twist where needed. They will also sag, twist, flex & rot where not needed. Wood is a great material for making trees. Any other use is marginal.

It is not one bolt. It is two bolts. One from either end. The left hand bolt reaches the end of the bushes thread & therefore allows the bush to be rotated as required. The lock nut then holds it in place. The right hand bolt is there to hold the other half to the upper link. It doesn't reach the end of the bushes thread. Do it up to the correct torque. Just be carefull not to rotate the bush as it will stuff your wheel alignment. It is not uncommon with these kits.

You should think about reducing/relocating weight in the following order: Reduce unsprung weight, ie wheels/tyres/brakes etc. Reduce weight in anything that rotates eg flywheels, pulleys, cam gears. Reduce sprung weight eg most of your list by either getting rid of gear or replacing it with lighter equivalents. Relocate weight (Lower, more centred, more towards the rear). You need to do all the annoying/bullshit things to if you are serious. Like redundant brackets, wiring looms etc etc. I would avoid drilling holes & removing structural metal unless you really know what you are doing. Also there is a bundle of weight to be saved in the exhaust, engine bay (brackets, breathers, blank plates, emission control gear etc etc etc), cabin (wiring, HVAC)... But the best advice I ever got went as follows: Go on a diet you fat fk. The advantage of being lighter/fitter is less stress/fatigue in the car & hence better concentration.

Sorry I should have been clearer. What I wrote other than one line, related to the 324*30 rotors. If you are just going to get standard rotors & are ok with cooling then Project Mu take alot of beating. Otherwise I would go and spend large & get some Endless stuff. Delivery was only a few weeks ex Greenline. Price was (in Yen) Project Mu SCR Pro (Front) 324x30 8 slit type R32 GT-R V-Spec (Brembo) 1 60,638 60,638 Shipping: 22,900 Total: 83,538 Shipping was probably more expensive & a little slower for me because unlike most of the country I don't live in Sydney and/or Melbourne. They send you tracking info etc so you know where you stuff is at any one time. They are also available locally (Racer Industries) the brake bloke there is helpful & knows his stuff - just not sure of the price. Why don't you buy a pair of complete hats/rotors etc of whatever type & then also get a spare pair of rotors. Or better yet a complete set so your race day isn't ruined by a busted brake rotor. As for DBA I have reached the conclusion that the problem with them is mostly centred around the DBA4000 series & at that rotors for the R32 GT-R. Like Roy says the 5000's appear to be ok. But for my 10 cents worth seeing as its brakes we are talking about I would be looking for more than just ok.

According to the blurb here infront of me next months (May 2009) edition of Wheels will come with a bonus DVD about the R35 GTR. Apparently it is the same doco that was on Foxtel a little while back.

Absolutely. But I don't think you can get access to the $3k until after the car has been crushed. Same same for cars crushed under the Hoon law. Another HYPOTHETICAL QUESTION If Tata have just released the worlds cheapest car, selling for less than $3000 can I drive one of those from the dealership straight down to centrelink & then pocket the difference between $3k & the purchase price? http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/03...?section=justin

Depends if you can get that sort of alignment with one camber kit or it you need two. No. As per 2. The Whiteline kit can be adjusted on the car. Ask the compliance shops. They will be sure as it is part of their procedures.

You need to have a think about how much cooling you need for the rotors. The list varies alot in terms of how many internal cooling vanes the things have. From the least: DBA, Project Mu To NFI Biot, Apex. To the most Endless, Stoptech. Oh and Project Mu make a 2 piece for the R32 Gt-R. I have some Project Mus on my 32 (with Roys F40s & a 324 rotor). Comparing the Project Mu to the DBA gives a big tick to the mus on their metallurgy. I had far fewer problems with cracking, crazing etc with the Japanese stuff. Of the rest Endless is $$$'s, Stoptech distribution blows hot & cold (Sometimes it just blows but it may be good again). Can't comment on Biot or Apex. If you are not in a hurry try Greenline. Also if you are not in a hurry wait for the Aussie dollar to recover against the Yen. http://www.ozforex.com.au/cgi-bin/chartsFa...&period=Day

There is alot of nonsense around about semi slicks. From my experience I have formed the following opinions: Yes they are street legal. Good luck convincing the policeman who just pulled you over of that fact, however. They go not have a great deal of tread depth - added to which most cars will rapidly degrade the outside of the fronts - so what tread depth you have will not be legal for long. You can happily drive them on the road. I drive from Bunno to Wanneroo & back. R comps (proper ones, not Federals or Falkens) need heat to develop all of their available grip. None the less even when cold they will outperform most road tyres in the dry. They last a reasonable amount of time on the road. Certainly if you are running your car on the road & periodically on the track most of the tyre wear will occur on the track. On the upside however R comps last much longer than road tyres when driven on a track (unless you are a numpty on the track). Old R comps are just a waste of everyones time. You will not heat cyle tyres on the road - not unless you are being stupid. The down side of running R comps on the road are: They are noisy as hell. The tramline like a bitch. Their stiff sidewalls make the car uncomfortable over bumps etc. They pick up every little rock/stone/anything and fire it into your paintwork. You have to keep adjusting the pressures from track to road & back again. I am less than convinced they will be helpfull if there are puddles on the road. Do not put R comps on one end of your car & roadies on the other. That is just a recipe for having an accident.

Photo attached.

For sale are a pair of Mines cam cover baffle plates to suit an RB26. These sit under the cam covers & stop the oil getting into the induction system. They are brand new & still in the box they came in. Price:$425 which includes postage.

It doesn't need to be perfectly balanced to handle. You can use any number of tricks to fix it. Most people find if they can run more rubber at the rear then the car is balanced better & is quicker with more weight in the rear. Weight distribution being roughly proportional to tyre width ie not 50 -50. Here is a photo of my bucket o' lard to illustrate the point:

You are never going to match the temperatures of the front & rear rotors/pads etc so there isn't much point trying. At the end of the day you need to reasonably match the friction coefficients of the front/rear pads near/at their expected maximum temps. Reason being when the fronts get hot is probably when you are trying hardest. So likeyou say you need a milder rear pad. So if the Project Mu stuff is working with a 0.5 friction coefficient (?) then grab something that works in a lower but wide temperature range for that value. The upside s being a rear pad they last much longer than the fronts.

Um, thats an Escort Cosworth.

By way on comparison: Bremo as fitted to R33's etc: 44 & 38mm dia pistons front, 40mm rear. Sumitomo as fitted to R32's 40.4mm (all the same) front, 38mm rear. So there is not much point using these WRX Brembos as they are too small in piston dia.

Well lets see one product you can consume safely. The other is addictive, carcinogenic not to mention a heap of other unpleasant & indeed deadly things & cannot be consumed safely. Anyway looks like Team Yodaphoned are still king of the kids & good to see Coulthard sneak into the top five! Brightie is still on struggle street. God the shootouts this year will be boring.

Yeah poverty packs. You can get luxury packs, sports packs & just about anything else so I figure they also make poverty packs for people with incomes similar to mine. The Nissan hand brake works on the inside of the centre section of the rotor. Or in otherwords it is internal. If the diameter of the friction surface for the drum shoes is different rotor to rotor then your handbrake wont work.

About the thickness I must have misread Roys comment about the 2mms. Yeah poverty pack = non V-spec GT-R. The calliper was a Brembo from a 33. I thought they were all the same on the 33 GT-R's. Some Q's. What piston diameter does the WRX calliper run? How did you get on with the internal hand brake? The Nissan type rotors run bad arsed cooling vanes in the inside at the rear. How do the Subaru's compare? Anyone have an opinion on the best tool to use to remove the stone guards from the back of the car? Apparently a 9" grinder is a bit over the top.

Hmm, maybe McConkey will be wigged out if Richards shows pace this year. Hope not. Nah its not but the amendments to the legislation would have banned alchohol advertising from sporting events.

Interesting because when I fitted up an R32 V-spev/R33 rear rotor to my povvo pack 32 Gtr I found the following. 1. Almost no room between the outside diameter of the rotor & the stone guard. 2. Needed to bash the stone guard flat where the calliper bolted on, otherwise it fouled. 3. The pads wouldn't fit with the new rotor/Brembo calliper & shims. This may be relate to the thickness of the rotor? 4. The hoses from the R33's were too short for the 32's by some 30 or 40 mm. Needed new hoses.