djr81

Good writeup but you missed one of the key things needed to set a good lap/stage time. Lateral grip. Now despite all the hype this is obviously going to be less of a consideration in a drift car than a track car. So one of the fundamental concerns for anyone on a track setting times gets ignored. Stretching a tyre does nothing for lateral grip. Stuffing as much rubber under the guards as you can does help. If you ever get the chance to look under a touring car running unrestricted rubber you will see the guards are a mess of black where the tyres are in contact over bumps etc.

-5's.

330rwkw for 20psi is an awful lot of boost for that reading from a -5. My RB26 is within a few rwkw using 15psi.

How much did you pay for the Project Mu fluid? The lines you have now will be fine. Braided lines will help give you a better (firmer) pedal feel. With regard to the ADR compliance issue most imported braided lines do not comply & therefore you can get defected for them. They are in any case available locally from multituudes of shops. If you are getting the rotors machined check how close they are to the minimum. Under thicknesses or barely legal thickness rotors don't tend to enjoy the whole track experience.

Project Mu are good, cheap & available. They can be had in either a one piece or a hatted 2 piece rotor. They are much better than either the RDA or the DBA rotors. If you are going near a track I would recommend them. If you just drive on the road the RDA's will be fine. I have had a total of 8 DBA 4000 rotors. They are sitting in a pile on the floor of the shed as 6 of them are cracked. As mentioned earlier it is the return slots that cause the problem. In fact I would (for track purposes) avoid any rotor that has slots that continue to the outer edge of the rotor. I used the RDAs for one track day only & they survived ok. I wouldn't recommend them for continued usage however.

Alot of cars int he hpi mags (& others) claim to be time attack but it is clear from looking at them that they have either never been near a track or if they have are hopeless. Brakes that look like brand new, hopeless spring rates & no negative camber are just some of the things that give the game away. If you look at an R compound after it has been used properly it is a very ugly tyre. Be aware also that some of the workshop cars will be on what are basically show rims/tyres ie not what they run at the track. Tooling about seconds off the pace does not make a good track car. Just like stretching a road tyre does not make a good track tyre. Any half decent track car will use the correct tyres - either a r compound or a slick. Both of which have the carcass construction to obviate any need to stretch anything. Look if you want to do it because you reckon it looks fully sik then go ahead. But please don't advocate it as a preferred alternative to anyone who is in any way serious about a good lap time. If people want to use them for drifting then good on them.

No they didn't. Oh and not all 94 GT-R's were V-spec. You will probably find the bloke has made a mess of the dates. Get the numbers of the build plate & put it through fast for confirmation.

Not that this is what you are after but the corresponding figure for the R32 Gt-R with the 1" bore M/C is 1961kPa (284psi) * 0.4.

Rake adjustment (That is what you are speaking of) only really has a transient affect on the car behaviour. So if your thing has steady state understeer a rake adjustment wont help. Look up Carroll Smiths list of cause/affect & his comments on rake.

OK so you have an issue with the corner exit behaviour. Almost inevitably this is related to the ATTESSA (4WD) system. Basically you can get yourself into a situation where the system does not react quickly enough - hence the car behaves like a rear wheel drive car. To get a better perspective you are best off trying someone elses GT-R to see how a proper system works. This will help determine if it is a real problem or merely an issue when compared to the way the Magma drives. There are two common causes of the problem. 1. Air in the hydraulic system. 2. Wear in the clutch packs. Check the first one first. Get some ATTESSA fluid & bleed the system. Only then contemplate the second.

The GT40 in the front will almost certainly be a replica either a DRB, a Tornado or infact any one of atleast a dozen different knock offs that you can buy. The shame of it is I have yet to see one driven properly. They are pretty to look at & apparently ok to drive. Not sure as despite a couple of my mates building them I can't fit into the damn things. Gurney bubble anyone?

What you are looking at are wet/snow tyres designed to increase the tyres bearing pressure & hence avoid aqua planing. Not that it helped Atkinson. Then again he should consider not driving like a Muppet. Just an idea.

Um how did you arive at the conclusion the WRC teams do it? In rally Ireland (the last round) they used wets mostly & then the thinner softer (basically snow tyres) because it was so bitterly cold & wet. As far as I can remember only Henning Solberg used slicks (or cut slicks) on the final day. You can be assured the rim width is matched to the tyre width rather than stretched to try & take compliance out of the side wall. Basically people only used stretched tyres because they are either too cheap to pay money for proper tyres or they have been hoodwinked by all the drift hype.

You don't have to run the dash you can run the DL1 alone. As for sensors it depends what you want to run. Most of what is necessary is already present on a Nissan. Anyway compared to such things as the drift box/performance meter the offer a great deal more functionality for only a small amount of cash. But if you really want to do it on the cheap you can always use your phone.

Your first step need to be establishing that the car works as advertised. Specifically: 1. Are all the shocks in good, working order. 2. Is the wheel alignment good? 3. Is the HICAS working properly and/or completely diabled. 4. Is the attessa system working properly.. To help clarify you need to specifiy which PART of the corner the car is misbehaving in. There are generally held to be four parts: 1. Braking/approach. 2. Turn in. 3. Apex. (zero throttle) 4. Exit (power on) Depending on where it is going funny will direct you toward what may be wrong with the car. Eg if the turn in is odd it is usually a combination of the HICAS & the wheel alignment making the car feel odd. If it is item 4 then it is almost always the ATTESSA system. So rather than chucking the kitchen sink at it have a bit of a think about where it is all going wrong.

No you use the DL1 to measure speed via GPS, accelerations via its own internal accelerometers & such things as rpm, throttle position & steering angle by tapping into the mutlitude of sensors already on the Nissans. Not expensive - you just need an auto sparkie to sort out how to get the sensor outputs configured to work with the DL1. As far as measuring downforce the wing generates it is far easier to put a strain gauge on the wing supports than trying to find what the suspension is doing. I mean, as (say) 50kg downforce with a rear spring rate of 5kg/mm you are looking for a 5mm deflection (You have 2 springs). Which with bumps etc and only a short time period to find it would be hard.

www.race-technology.com See the DL1.

Fair enough. I am not sure anyone has front end grip problems post apex as it is a power on oversteer issue that characterises the cars handling at this point and aero grip can only do so much to solve it. I guess what I was trying to say was two fold: 1> Balance is as important as grip. 2> A wing that produces downforce behind the rear wheels will both add grip to the rear & lessen grip at the front. So a working wing will have the effect of adding understeer to the car. I sort of take the view that getting the car balanced in the mid corner helps your confidence in the car, your apex speed & your ability to apply power. As such I dont reckon a big rear wing will help you. If you watch the good drivers in 2wd cars (particularly low powered 2wd cars) you will be surprised by how 'loose' the car is. But anyway it isn't a huge effort to bolt it up & see what happens. If all else fails the wing may make a good towell rail or something at a later point.

Well given that the GT-Rs struggle with front end grip unless you can otherwise make the thing oversteer past the apex I wouldn't fit the wing at all.

I removed my Whiteline srpings & replaced them with Eibach. Much lighter and a stiffer spring rate to boot. You need a few extra bits other than the springs but someone on here should be able to tell you want to use with the 33's.

Had to buy a kit. Lower control arms (which I used), mounting brackets (same) & castor rods (which are sitting in the shed at home). Best bet to probably the Yahoo Auctions for the components. I got mine ex east.

They can be had in 2 door turbo & 4 door (Pillarless) turbo. The Australian built versions do not have turbos. There is an R31 2 door for sale on this site somewhere.

Well I am not sure they are worth the coin Nissan charge for them but they work & help fix some of the issues the R32's have with front end geometry. So whilst I still begrudge the amount I had to pay & also the amount of time it took to remove the ABS unit & the master cylinder to fit the things in I am pretty pleased with the result.

I have given up on hoping to buy something half decent to put in the front of my R32R. So I made my own. When I say I made it, well I sketched it before giving to the draftie, who gave it to the fitter who gave it to the boilermaker/welder, who gave it back to the fitter who gave it to me to fit. Anyway it appears to work & confer heroic amounts of -ve camber on the front. I used the Whiteline bush kit. The ends are matched to the same length & id as the stock components, the trail is 22(ish)mms from memory & the length I settled on was 170mm. Bolted up nicely.

Slightly off topic but I offered up my CE28's to the my R32R on the weekend. They fit nicely but.....the but being the wheel studs are too short for my liking. How are they on the 34?