djr81

Take a photo and post it. The Nissan pipe will have a small orifice (Restrictor) in is. Does your new piping? PCV = Positive Crank ventilation. When you have manifold vacuum it will suck the blowby out of the sump. It is usually on the exhaust cam side of the engine half way along. What did you do to the piping on this side?

Why do you want roll if you have aero? Roll stops the front splitter working properly.

You haven't listed any injectors. Given,for example, the Nismo I/C isn't needed and costs a bomb I can't work out your intent. Sell the turbo and get something good,. It's probably the most important bit on the whole bill. You list, to be honest reads a bit like its 1990. EG Apexi is old, old tech.

You don't empty the sump. But you can easily put enough in a catch can that firing over kerbs splashes oil everywhere (out the breather) and makes a mess. So it works better with an empty catch can. The oil is invariably stinking hot anyway. Hot enough to boil off any ethanol (if that is what you are running) and water. Also to burn the crap out of your hands when you spill it after touching the stinking hot engine/radiator hoses etc etc. Sure you can wait until it cools but then you lose half your track time. Anyway point is if you are thinking of changing oil do it AFTER the track day. Because what you are seeing is condensation.

Kiwi's will be pleased. Must be something in the water over there these days.

Its because its a sport car not an SUV designed for people to drive whilst sleeping. ANCAP CEO James Goodwin ... slammed the lack of speed assistance systems, lane support systems, autonomous emergency braking, forward collision warning and rear seat belt reminders, but also the physical crash performance. In response, Ford Australia external communications head Martin Günsberg said ....“The overall Euro NCAP rating is based on four pillars (Adult Occupant Protection, Child Occupant Protection, Pedestrian Protection and Safety Assist), with a very strong focus on family car and SUV safety characteristics and specific safety assist features, which are usually not part of the standard equipment of cars in the Mustang category,” he stated. “Mustang delivered a four-star result for Adult Occupant Protection, a three-star result for Child Occupant Protection and a five-star result for Pedestrian Protection. However, a two-star result in the Safety Assist pillar determined the overall result of a two-star rating. “The Mustang features a suite of advanced safety features as standard including an ‘active’ pop-up bonnet, as well as driver and front passenger airbags, front and passenger knee airbags. It also offers standard side airbags, side chest airbags and driver/passenger side impact airbags. A driver and front passenger seatbelt reminder system is standard.”

You want to get the blowby in the sump out of the engine without it having to go through the oil gallery. So if you can connect a line to the pan above the oil level then you can hook the other end into your catch can. Which is the age old fix for engines with oil carry over in the blowby.

If you want to lower the pressure you need to replace the spring with another, softer one. I did this on mine but its a Tomei not a Nismo pump and it easy as it has an external adjustment. Frankly I wouldn't bother.

Its like a competition to see who can spend the most on engine oil. If it is synthetic it will be more than good enough. When the RB26 came out (Back in the olden days - 1989) Nissan only ever recommended a semi synthetic oil. The worst synthetic you can buy now is going to be much better than that. But yeah spend up on pretty coloured boxes and marketing. Or just buy what's on special. As an aside Penrite promises to have loads on zinc in it which is no bad thing.

Skylines are good for minimum track days cause mostly they are broken. Depends what you want from your track day. Because $100k of R32 goes pretty hard.

“It’s not very often you get to launch a car that will change the perception of the brand, and that’s exactly what we think the Stinger will do,” said Damien Meredith, Kia Australia’s chief operating officer. Whether it is any good or not is irrelevant. By the criteria Kia have jobs already done.

http://gtr-registry.com/en-r32-gtr-nismo.php

Best option is to not use aluminium nuts or a rattle gun without a torque bar. http://www.kctools.com.au/Products/impact-sockets/1-2-drive-torsion-bars/1-2-quot-drive-torsion-bar-2 You can find steel nuts, my recommendation is avoid the open ended ones. Water will pool in them followed by lovely orange streaks of rust. I got some ARK design ones ages ago. They are longer (50mm) to suit the longer Nismo studs. Cant remember from where maybe ebay maybe direct. http://www.arkdesign.co.jp/accessory.htm

The worst thing you can do is put pillow ball front joints in the car. It will change it so that every bump you go over will be amplified through the chassis and annoy the hell out of you. So don't do it. Other radius arms are fine without such joints also - nothing wrong with bushes. If you want to do something get good spring rates and good dampers and match them to sway bars. Good alignment (including ride height), low unsprung weight and no HICAS is about as good as you can hope for. As was said in the first reply - good tyres make a huge difference.

So in short it has been knocking and is now burning oil. Get a compression gauge and check the engine. Odds are you have damaged the ring lands in one or more pistons.

Yeah I realise that I was advocating buying a second hand GTR diff and shimming it tighter rather than spending large on a Nismo clunk fest.

You don't have to spend money on NIsmo tax. The stock GTR diff can be shimmed tighter for more LSD, albeit two way. Don't get a 2 way Nismo under any circumstances as even the 1.5 way is stupidly tight and goes clunkety clunkety cluck whenever your are foolish enough to try and turn a corner. May as well be welded shut for the vast amounts of understeer is causes.

Coarse is 1.0mm Fine is 0.75mm

Try searching for M7x20 set screw. http://championpartsonline.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=248_249&product_id=24996 These are the wrong length but you get the idea: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Champion-Bolts-Nuts-M7x35-High-Tensile/17309

Just a marginally larger area under the curve for the same lift/stated duration. Wouldn't hurt but more like Tomei needs to freshen their product up a bit.

If I get high impedence injectors can I run them with an RB20/RB25 injector harness? Can I do this on a Power FC?

This sort of thing for injectors? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/fit-Nissan-Skyline-rb26dett-r33-r34-r32-Bosch-750cc-fuel-injectors-GTR-turbo-/201948838193?hash=item2f0516b931:g:D2IAAOSwB09YMPwG Or is there somewhere else recommended? Or do you/can you use an RB20 harness (My existing one is obviously pretty old and may not enjoy being messed with)

Yeah I don't really want to get into the tuna thing. Perth is a hopeless case when it comes to such discussions and the nonsense that gets talked about them does my head in (EG He is brilliant but doesn't answer his phone, only works for friends of friends, etc etc etc). Anyway the problem with the current setup broadly comes down to niceness, logging and the following on every full noise gear change.

I would like to make 500hp. I am not after screwing the last cent out of it but just want a decent result without going stupid.

RB26 ECU questions I have an RB26 which was assembled with technology current at the time when Noah was a boy. It runs the following (On petrol because I cannot get E85 within 100 miles of home) Bang up to the minute Power FC ECU. Sard 700cc injectors. Z32 AFM's. Blitz dual solenoid boost controllers (Which actually works pretty well) Various cams (256 inlet, 252 exhaust), turbos (-5's), cam gears and other things. The car runs 20lb and makes an amount of powahs that can only be described as insufficient. I have a thought that an ECU upgrade (not so much for the powah but to make the thing drive nicer, idle, etc etc and to be able to hook it into my data logger) may be in order and a Link G4 is on the list of likely options. Are the injectors ok as I cant work out the impedence etc references and reconcile them with the ballast resistor blather RB20 types go on with. Do I need to replace and/or fit anything to the injectors to work with the ECU? Of the options available from Link are they worth the money? Can anyone offer commentary on how they found the tuning experience/results with the ECU?