djr81

You are kidding aren't you? What parts do you need to be able to spend $10k on? An Rb26 doesn't need to be built to produce 1000hp or rev to 10,000rpm. Set some reasonable expectations & with a reasonable budget you can get a good result by rebuilding your motor. Certainly a better result than spending money on a tired 2nd hand motor anyway.

There is already a cooler for the PS system in the GT-R's. It is infront of the radiator, but behind the I/C on the drivers side of the bonnet latch. It is simplty a small diameter pipe with external fins. Simply remove it & replace it with a proper sized cooler. A small 100mm by 250 ish size is more than adequate. That is what I did & it stopped the P/S fluid from getting hot, expanding & then leaking out of the top of the reservoir. And yes hoses & clamps work fine.

Gee, great piece of journalism. Ferrari were named earlier in the year as being one team exploiting the reliability loophole to make more horsepower. Anyway exploiting loopholes is standard engineering practice in F1. Renault would do the same except they sacked most of their engine division....

Privacy laws. He is a car salesman & is doing his job by getting you to come to the yard & talk to him about buying the car. If you want to buy it you have to do so anyway. So just go & see & write the number down.

Well said. Without mentioning any names I wouldn't place any store in the hope that any number of muppets won't put their short term gain ahead of the long term interest of people who genuinely have a use for race/rally imports.

The hatted rotors Project Mu make as a replacement for the standard rotors fit up the same as the standard rotors. With regard to the aftermarket ones - well you need to ask but as yet no one has found anyone willing to divulge that information. As for your second question - good question. I would like to know too.

They were specced differently. Don't surmise, get the build number & the KBNR number. Then you will know.

Ring the bloke up & get the KBNR32 etc number sequence. Go from there. A late N1 should have Brembos. No idea about the other stuff coming ex factory, but I doubt it.

Well if it is what he says it is I would reckon it is well worth the trip to look at it. What year & how many kms are being claimed? As for the pod thing, don't worry about it. The early model Nismo cars had them, the late N1s sometimes did, sometimes didn't as near as I can make out.

I doubt it is an easly model Group A homologation Nismo version simply because it is white (they were all grey) and also it has the late series console etc. It may (may) be a late N1, however. Broadly the plates for the various models read : Poverty pack KBNR32RXFSLM2G V spec KBNR32RBFS AA V spec 11 KBNR32RBFS8AA Nismo KBNR32RXFSL RA BNR32-100198 for the build number. The 100 starts the sequence, the remainder of the numbering being from one to 560. N1 KBNR32RBFS ZN

It has one of the hallmarks of a Nismo version - the rear window with no wiper and some of the other more generic stuff. But the only way to be sure is to check the build number. It is the KBNR32RBFS ZN which is the number sequence for the N1's. How much do they want for it?

I have no idea what you are trying to say. Something about gravity, right? Braking friction & engine friction (or pumping losses if you like) both act to remove energy from the car & hence slow it down. The kinetic energy of the flywheel constitutes part of the energy needing removal. The less kinetic energy a car has (for a given speed) the easier it is to slow down. A lighter flywheel stores less kinetic energy.... If you are changing gears (either up or down) you are simply trading some linear kinetic energy (ie of the car going forward) for some rotational kinetic energy (ie the flywheel going around). All of the energy (whether linear or rotational) needs to be gotten rid of to slow the car (assuming it is in gear). The advantage of the lightened flywheel is less energy is needed to spin up what is ultimately a useless piece of junk and can instead go into making the car go quicker in a straight line. Anyway the heirachy of dealing with weight goes in the following order. 1. Reduce unsprung weight. 2. Reduce the inertia of any rotating components. 3. Reduce static weight. 4. Relocate weight, ie lower, away from the more heavilly loaded axle and closer to the middle of the car. Basically item 1 is the most important & then in descending order items 2, 3 & 4. At the end of the day, though, you do what you can.

This sort of thing you mean?

This may sound massively pedantic, but what you have said is not 100% correct. Basically a heavier flywheel needs more energy to increase its rpm relative to a lighter unit. So when you change down a gear it will INITIALLY give you more engine braking. However after that point it will give you less engine braking because its greater stored energy (kinetic energy - again relative to a lighter unit) needs to be soaked up by engine friction & braking etc. So basically a heavier flywheel will absorb more energy to get it up to speed, but then give it back when you try and brake. As an aside that means when you don't change down gears a lightened flywheel will increase your braking performance.

Sounds odd about cracking about the bleed nipples. Unless they are tapered & over tightened you wouldn't imagine that would be a particularly stressed area. I think you are right with the mounts. Must have been the generic photo I was looking at. Either that or they are actually radial mounted & just missing some studs. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/caliper_R4-2.htm

Radial mount is easier as the bolts holding the mount to the hub are at right angles to those holding the calliper to the mount. At the end of the day if you can make it work there isn't much of a difference. And yeah. I got fk all info out of anyone regarding the 345x32 rotors too.

Depending on which of the project mu rotors you get you can characterise the scr - pro series as incomplete vein, for example. See link & click on the view all pictures tag. http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Project-Mu...FD3S-SE3P-13730 On the upside they do appear to be crack resistant & light. So I guess you don't get everything. Edit: answered my own question which is the piston diameters in the 4 pot project mus are 41mm dia. http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/Project-Mu-Rac...et-Nissan-51745 Also given that Project Mu don't use a radial mount for their callipers & their piston sizes are basically indistinguishable from the Sumitomo calliper & the silly 4 pad arrangement I can't think of a compelling reason to shell out for them. Other than they look pretty.

I felt a bit dirty wangering around Dutton taking photos of peoples brakes, but hey we all have our em, foibles.

Looks tasty. Couple things: 1. How can I get a part number for that rotor, ie 345x32 scr pro for a GTR? 2. What piston area do the 4 pot callipers have?

There was a Sllver R33 GTR running in the WA round of the Dutton with 6 pot Project Mu fronts. Can't remember the car number - maybe one of the competitors will know. Check the Dutton website for entry list maybe.

I think the fundamental problem is that the manufacturer "co contribution" for want of a better word forms a not insubstantial part of the teams budgets. The amount of money the car companies have to tip in explains why they all moved to team ownership as distinct from just supplying engines like in the olden days. Hence no Team Lotus Ford (They went with Stewart then Jaguar), no Williams BMW, no Benetton Renault, no BAR Honda etc etc. Lack of manufacturer support makes it much harder to find sponsorship. Look at the number of privateers that have gone away in the last few years. It has always been a bit that way but maybe the proof is that there are no new teams on the horizon.

I think more to the point is that the teams as a whole agreed to end tobacco sponsorship as of either last year or the year before. All the other teams, ie McLaren, Williams, Honda, Renault with tobacco sponsorship progressively gave it up. The only team to reneg on the deal was everyones favorite folk at Ferrari. The point is not whether or not the car looks ugly the point is why did they reneg on a deal & accept money from such a murderous product? Oh and a winning car is a good looking car but I still can't get used to the dumbo ears.

This one isn't the greatest photo (camera problems) but shows how to kerb hop for fun & profit.

Catch of the day for Friday just gone. Dutton rally at Collie this year.

I replaced the outers with some bushes dimensionally similar but made out of nylon. They are a couple year sold now & are still fine.